1855 diesel -310 turbo block -help

jasinpa

Member
shop is telling me block is .017 under min. deck height befor suracing , will be .035 after . also telling me lower bores all need
replaced which i find hard to believe when they didnt leak a drop befor & looked good to me , i found a guy who claims to have a
brand new 310 block (no oil cooler) , is this possible? if so what should i look for or stay away from , are gas & diesel blocks the
same ? what should the casting number range be for these blocks , my tractor number is 243905-685 . is 1300 a fair price ? or is
the shop being to picky on my block , it ran fine befor , just blew the head gasket because someone put 3 non turbo liners in it ,
now its a nightmare , would i be asking for trouble if i said surface the block , cut counter bores & put it back together , i have
the means to turn tops of pistons if need be , also have valve & seat equipment if needed could cut back on protution for clearance
, or should i buy the new block if it true ? dont want to repower with cummins , want it original & also already into it for rod ,
head , & block work done & overhaul kit , can someone please give me some advice
 
sounds like you already know what to do to reuse your block, some machine shops cant be trusted , need to varify all specs yourself ,just for yourown peace of mind
 
Curious how they came wp with minimum deck heighth. I would take the time to go down there and take a few bearings. Lay the crankshaft in bolt in a couple bearings and one piston. Rotate and see where the piston is at the top of the stroke.
The lower bore is very forgiving. The only way I would sleeve it is if The vertical gouge marks are very deep. Heard of guys that smoothed them up using J&B weld. I Just run around them with 80 grit emory paper or a few spins with a ball hone.
One thing I have noticed about machine shops is when they start out they try to be P
erfectionist and after about 20 years they become more realistic.
The most important thing you can do is ask them to set line bore machine and check and double check the bottom for warpage.
 
Most machine shops have an online database of engine specs that give all the specs. To get the deck height spec they have to measure form the centerline of the crank to the top. Since you tore it apart, I would ask myself if this thing ever had the front cover off, original mains or anything else that would look like the crank was out. Does the deck/counterbores look like they were ever redone before? If you can see something to make you think it was never decked, I may not worry about there measurements, it may be wrong. I know ours was decked about .010 and we didn't touch the pistons. There shouldn't be a need to deck the block another .017 unless it's off that bad. Something sounds fishy there. You can always shave the top of the pistons. Unless the lower bores are pitted where the liner o-rings sit, I wouldn't worry about it. Normally the the chamfer or just above the liner o-rings pit. I work at a Cat dealer and 95% of all 3406/C-15's are pitted/eroded on the chamfer. We epoxy or use JB weld kwik to fill in these holes otherwise the line o-rings would get cut when you intall the liners. I did the same thing to our 1750 with a 310T in. Some of the bores weren't too my liking either and put some silicone around the o-rings before I put the liners in over 10 years ago. Curious what machine shop you are using? We got a brand new 283 block about 15 years ago but was the last one in the country we were told. Make sure if it is a 310 block that the head bolt holes are 5/8 not 9/16.
 
thanks for all you guys help , ive made the call to surface block & cut counter bores , the block does need .015 taken off dew to gasket pounding on block ( someone put none turbo liners in it befor i owned ) ive also found a new block local if needed , i have 10 years in a machine shop doing this kind of work , so ive banged heads with this shop pretty hard , the think there building the space shuttle here , & in all my years never seen a block need all lower bores replace unless it had a serious failure , if the pistons are to high i will turn them off , ofcourse shop would rather offset bore my rods but i said no way , that will cause problems later if i need to replace the block , as far a lower bore i thought some silicon couldnt hurt , heck mack only uses silicon to seal there liners in. worse case i will use hard block filler about an inch thick to seal lowers got that advice from an old time oliver guy , who also owns the new blocks i found & will take my old block on trade in he's so sure its fine ( site unseen) , i think its time for me to exspand my personal shop equipment & do work myself , i cant help but wonder how many people junk good parts because the shops now adays dont know how to work with what they got the way i was taught , not what the book says , ill keep everone posted , as they say , it ran befor it will run again
 

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