ky1650

Member
I'm getting close to being ready to paint my 1650. I know this has been asked before but I have priced tsc paint for 30$ gallon and agco dealer wants 95$ have not yet priced paint from local paint store. Tractor will be used for chore work on farm and plow days what paint would you use
 
Honestly, unless you are going to keep the tractor inside at all times, you are doing yourself and your project a disservice by single component cheap paint. I'd hit up your local body shop supply company, napa, or whoever mixes auto body paint and price out some of their different two component systems. You might be surprised at the cost and will end up with a job that will last and be tough. I use Sherwin Williams Acrolon 218 which is used on bridges, ships, water towers, etc so it's made to look great after 15 years of sitting outside 24-7. It runs me about $80/gallon but after thinning, I actually yield around 1.25 gallons.

Oh, and with any hardener, read up on isocyanate safety so you know how to protect yourself. Most folks play around with it like it's nothing, but it's super nasty stuff. No sense having a fun project screw you up for life:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnDA43snhTY
 
I used the TSC stuff on my 1365. It scratches off easy,but it's green and that was the goal.
 
There is a reason the crap from TSC is only $30. You can make the tractor look really good for a short time with the TSC paint. A few years from now you will be kicking yourself for not spending the extra dollars for better paint. I would leave it as is before I would waste my time prepping and then putting that cheap paint on there. The paint from Agco is a little better but you could spend a few more dollars and get a decent acrylic enamel system from your local body supply shop. The nice thing about using a system from a body supply store is they will give you the materials you need along with good instructions on mixing activators, hardeners, etc.. You can put hardener in the Agco paint too if you choose to go that route. Cheap paint is cheap paint. I have painted a dozen tractors in my life and about half of them were using implement store paint. After using body shop paint for the first time I was hooked. Never again opened a can of implement store paint. As others have said use caution with all of the hardeners and activators. That stuff is dangerous and you need the proper protection. I used a charcoal mask when I painted. I finally quit painting because I didn't have the proper facilities to do it and I was concerned about painting without wearing a supplied air system. I still ended up with leukemia. Don't know if it was the painting, farm chemicals, or just bad luck!
 
The AGCO and TSC are alkaline base paint. Old outdated technology that will fade and get chalky over time. Go to a body shop supply and get Acrylic enamel in a cheap paint line. Might have to spend around $130 a gal, but cheap if you figure how much longer the paint will last and look good. Minor addition expense once you figure all the time and supplies spent on preparing for paint.
 
i have had good luck with the old TSC paint w/ propure thinning & additives like hardener , but whoever is making it now is selling crap & it dont even match as far as oliver green , heck JD green matches my 1855 better , if you spend the money on good paint id just go all the way & clear coat it to or it will fade just like any other paint does in the sun , had a friend buy whatever paint the JD dealer was selling & clear coated it , its held up great now for many years & his tractor sits out all the time but i dont know the brand , it wasnt over $50 a gal. I can feel you pain though going to paint my 1855 soon & am have a hard time with per mixed paint matching , may just get it mixed by the paint code here & will clear coat it too , but i know the wallet wont like it
 
Got started painting my 1650 frame this weekend. Yesterday was a perfect painting day -- clear, dry and no wind. I used Rustoleum Meadow Green rattlecans that I got from HD at $3.87 each. Color seems to be spot on .Hot powerwashed, then went over every inch of it with wirebrush, sandpaper, and solvent.

I like to make a first past with decent quality spraycans, then fix any problems like runs or bodywork before I put on final coats of the expensive stuff like NAPA urethanes.
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