Cracks between cyls

tom upton

Member
I appear to have cracks between 3&4 and 4&5 is this a problem? See attached pic
a188082.jpg
 
ObsoElitist, Could you please be more discriptive on your comment? I think most of us are scratching our heads on your answer. I have rebuilt a few top end cracked blocks over the past 24 years and they are still running fine today. Please tell me where Myself and the rest of us are wrong? You know these are not aiplane engines and wont make you fall out of the sky if they fail. You can get alot more hours out of one that is overhauled and will save you a heck of alot of money rebuilding versus running out and finding a new block.
 
Maybe Farmers can get it to work, but as a mechanic and machinist, I look like a fool and a crook if my repair fails. I see that crack eroding wider in use unless the gasket has full surface contact on the sleeves, and it does not appear to be flush in the photo. With a "siamese" cyl arrangement like that there is probably no water under it, but If I was building it for a customer I would pull the sleeves and use "LockNstitch" plugs to fix it, thrn have to deck the block and re-bore the holes for the sleeves.
With engines like Continental straight 8s, and the like, blocks are hard to come by and extensive actions are made to save them, block replacement and rebuild is often cheaper and more durable if you can find one
 
Since you mention Continental engines, the little 4 cylinder Z models used in the older Ferguson have been known to do that. There are or were aftermarket kits that bolted those back together and they run fine.
 
What are you going to do with it, parade tractor or working tractor? We are redoing a WD Allis puller and found the block cracked but not all the way through. Deck was .005-.006 low in that spot. Our machinest was concerned about that. We pulled this tractor for two years and didn't know we had a problem until we took it apart.
 
Working tractor. It is out of a 2-70 White (Direct injection 283) I am taking to the machine shop to get it hot tanked sometime next week. I will get Al(one of the best automotive machinists in the business) to check the lower webbing between bores for cracks after it is cleaned up. I cant see any cracks visually, but it is a hard spot to get a good look at, so to be safe I will have him die penetrant or mag particle if he can get at it? I am a little concerned as the main reason I have it tore down is it was leaking antifreeze into the oil pan. This tractor has sat for a number of years, and I diagnosed the leakage as coming past the O-rings on the sleeves, but I guess it is possible it could have been coming thru a crack?
 

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