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1850 oliver injection pump

If I was doing it I would remove the pump timing cover, flat plate w/2 screws, and roll the engine over until the timing mark on the rotor lines up with the long end of the snap ring (going by memory here), remove the pump and don't turn the engine until you install the repaired pump with the rotor in the same location. Found this in a search.
[http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=oliver&th=46921l]
 
   This system is really simple to time.   There is no need to position the engine prior to pump removal.   Put a new gasket under the pump flange, install the short drive shaft with the long end into the engine drive hub.   The drive hub and injection pump both have blind splines so you can't get it wrong.   There is a timing mark on the pump flange and a mark on the engine base for the pump, align them, it's that simple.   No need to remove the cover.

   Originally the snap ring position that 90 Percent Retired posted was good at one time, however it has been determined that the snap ring will move due to vibration, thus it is no longer used for timing and not needed.
 
If you are lucky the pump drive will have been updated to the heavy drive hub like the later Perkins have, with no quill drive shaft that likes to break. Timing is still the same as the splined hub has a blind spline and will only go back one way. The old style quill shaft sometimes breaks lengthwise, or the hubs will explode/split too. Had a fellow looking for the shaft last year, I had one in an early MF 1100 that was good. Not sure if new are available anymore..
 
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