non detergent oil

Andy Keil

Member
Hi, I have an 880 gas tractor and have always just run 30 weight non detergent in it. It is getting kind of hard to find around here and wonder if I can just switch to 10W30. Anybody see issues with that? Thanks
 
Switch it to detergent oil and be better off in the ling run. Will not have any problem in doing so
 
I run old Farmall's, and using 10-30 weight auto oil, use about 2 qts every 4-5 hours of tough work. Switched to 10-40 Diesel oil many years ago and problem went away.
 
Full flow oil filtration should have little problem apart from an early filter change or two. Might be a good idea to clean out the pan of accumulated sludge, if felt to be an issue.

Bypass filter situation is somewhat different as loosened sludge can block oilways, particularly lower pressure such as governor feeds or metered feeds such as valve gear. My 90 suffered a blocked governor feed, but it was noticed and rectified before any damage could occur. The original governor housing was destroyed in the middle 1950s when the weights exited the casing.

RAB
 
The only issue I ever heard was several years ago. Dad said a salesman talked him in to changing his 66 from non detergent to detergent and it stuck the rings.
That said,I run detergent in all nine of mine,but I've done it from day one,never switched one over.
 
Pull your valve cover off, at the junk yard I worked at some in high school many times cars that had run non
detergent oil were packed full of crude.Non detergent oil has sent many an engine to a premature death.Gulf oil used to be one of the worst followed by Quaker State about crudding up engines.
 
You could go to 10w30 or 15w40with no problems. The only thing I would do is make the first 2 oil changes very low hours after changing over and make sure to change filter at the same time.
 
The difference in the oils is more than the detergent. I can not understand why anyone would run the non-detergent oil in anything that still runs today.It was surely not ever the correct oil for that 880. When you switch to better oil you might "clean-house" in the engine and clog the oil pump screen. You will need to be watching the oil pressure closely or just pull the valve cover and oil pan now and clean out the sludge. Enjoy your Oliver!
 
I mixed mine for a 50 50 mix for a few days running and then went away from non detergent oil. I use 10 w 30 from Walmart actually with no issues in all our machines
 
I agree non detergent oil is not accepted any more, use a high zinc oil, like a diesel oil, because the oil manufactures have lowered it to almost nothing, for the auto industry, which use's overhead cams in there engine, therefore they dont need the zine. The zine is the extreme pressure part of the oil, and there more pressure on the old time flat tappet cams/lifters than on the crankshaft bearings.
 
I agree I use 15-40 diesel grade oil in every engine I own from lawn mowers on up.The mechanic that replaced the timing belt in my wife's Toyota Corolla at 200,000 miles as preventive maintenance
said it was one of the cleanest engines he'd ever worked on.
 
if you own a tractor that has run on non-detergent oil its whole life dont switch to detergent oil till it is overhauled , reason being, as was said about sludge build up , modern oil will loosen sludge , because old tractors are semi flow filters now you pump it through the bearings and if you didnt need an overhaul you do now , also would like to add, not pointing fingers ,but why do people feel the need to change to a differant weight oil , most old tractors use 30w for a reason, & rotella makes a great 30w oil , using 10w 30 and such in these old tractors is just asking for trouble & most oils cost the same
 

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