Change Transmission Oil, Then Blow The Filter

1970-1655

Member
Has anyone had this happen? I got our 1650 warmed up after the water in the transmission froze, and drained it. I let it drain for over 2 hours to get all I could. Pulled the pick up screen and drained it also. Replaced the filter with a new filter left over from the Oliver dealer we still had. I put in 6 gallon (it calls for 8) of good 80/90 oil and ran it around for about another hour clearing the drive more and everything worked fine. I went out yesterday at about 30 degrees and started right up. When I got off, I looked down and the filter was pouring oil on the floor. It was a little milky looking but not bad, like ice in it. Now, it is off to town to buy one of the newer, improved, Chinese version filters. I only put in 6 gallon because I planned on using it when I need to move some snow, and in the spring, drain and flush when it is warmer and add the 8 gallon it calls for.
 
First of all I didn't look it up for all the details, but there is a bypass /relief valve in the circuit, you need to check it. The next thing is pour about 2 gallon of diesel fuel in the transmission too. We had more than 1 guy seize that low range gear because when the tractor was not being operated on the level that pump would suck some air in and then no oil to the low range gear. Especially when you are 2 gallon low to start with! Remember in high range that gear spins faster than engine RPM.
 
I am also thinking more water/ice that did not drain out, and it went to the filter or maybe further down the line. When I started it, the ice blocked the flow and it needed to go somewhere. From what I read, the filter has a bypass valve built in for oil flow until the temperature comes up and thins the oil a little. I just bought a Wix 51452 filter and they have a bypass setting of 8-11 psi. Seems low but that is what most oil filters with bypass are at. I may try adding the diesel fuel and let it run at idle for a few minutes to help flush the water and crud out of the system.
 
if it was never inside and never got above 30 degrees there is still ice in there! What did the filter that you put on it look like when you took it off?
 
I have had 1 blow off in 40 years. Just put another one on and it was good to go.
When you say "got it warmed up", do you mean in the shop or running outside? If it was running outside, I would think not all the ice got out of the system.
I use a Wix 51307 filter which has a bypass built in it. Have had real good luck with them for everything. NAPA stocks Wix under their own label. The number at NAPA is 1307.
The circuit pressure is aroumd 8 to 12 lbs. Burst pressure is rated at 300 lb. Again I would try Wix or some brand(Baldwin or Fleetline) that are at least made in the USA. Wix is OEM for some major companies like Caterpillar.
Your can buy then at NAPA for about $8.00 or on ebay a little cheaper. Our local Wix dealer dicounts 20 to 25% if order is over $125.
 
When it was froze up, I put a tarp over the whole back end of the tractor. Then I put a Dyna-Glow 80,000 btu propane heater under the tarp. I have a temperature scan gun so I kept checking places on the housing until all were at least 45 degrees. Then I shut off the heater, uncovered the tractor and cleaned the driveway for a little over 2 hours with no problem. (idle to about 1200 rpm) Then I pulled the drain plug and the pump pickup screen and let it drain for over 2 hours. It would drip once every 20-30 seconds so I put the plugs back in and put in 6 gallon of new oil. Then I ran it for another hour. No problems. Next day, the filter leaked pretty good as soon as I started it. Oil was still a little milky looking but not real bad. The tractor sits in an open sided pole barn so it gets cold. I got busy with other things and have not put the new filter on or tried it yet.

Here is the heater I have: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dyna-Glo-50K-80K-LP-Convection-Heater-RMC-LPC80DG/202895381?N=5yc1vZc4kf
 
I agree with others in that you likely still have frozen water in there. The tarp and heater is fine but you need to maintain that warmer temp under the tarp for 4 hours minimum.

In the industrial world that subjects manufactured parts to a given temperature and then subjects them to a given durability test then a 4 hour soak is considered soaked to the core at that temp.

Example want to test a part at -40 degrees F that is stored at ambient temp (70 deg F) then that part must soak in a conditioning chamber (glorified freezer) for 4 hours to be considered soaked to the core.

Conversely want to test a part at ambient (70 deg) that is has been stored outside in winter then you must bring it inside for 4 hours minimum before testing it.

Think about it. Your ice cubes do not melt instantly when you take em out of the freezer. Or your beer does not get warm instantly when you take it out of the fridge.

Actually since a tarp and a portable heater is kind of a crude temp control method, then I would likely go over a 4 hours soak. Surface temp of a part is not the same as the core temp of a part and you need the core temp to get to that 45 degrees or more for some time to melt the ice.
 

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