Mike(NEOhio) power steering shaft seals

I ended up ordering CR oil seals going by shaft and bore sizes. I had to replace both bearings and got a used shaft. They worked OK. The bottom seal and needle bearing were gone and I didn't know what type of seal was there till I took it apart. I've never seen a seal like that and could not find it in any catalogs. I have the invoice but there are other seals on it. I'll check the numbers and post back. That was a while ago, how did you remember that?
 
Lower seal: CR 12330 1.250 x 1.500 x .125
Upper seal: CR 14804 1.500 x 1.875 x .188
Upper bearing: Torrington B-2416-OH
Lower bearing: Torrington B-2016-OH
 
When you guys put that back together make sure you use a Grade 8 bolt in the arm where the tie rods attach and if I remember right the torque on them was 200 foot pounds.
 
Thanks for the information! I did a search for steering shaft seals and your post came up. Did the steering shaft stay up in the cylinder when you removed the axle carrier or does it come out when the carrier comes down? If it does come out is there a blind spline to help get it back in right?
 
I took the whole front end apart, dropped the bolster and pulled the cylinder off. There was so much obviously wrong that I went through everything. Lower bearing and seal were GONE and the upper and shaft were shot. Are you replacing the bearings or just the seals? The steering arm is between the two bearings so it has to come off with the bolster. If you do it that way I would block up the cylinder so you don't damage the lines. The bolster is heavy so put two longer bolts in to catch it. If you take the cylinder off you can get to everything in-tractor but the radiator needs to come off. Old and used shafts shown.
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I am taking it apart because my bolster is worn out where the pivot pin goes through the front side. The PO had a loader on it and used it a lot.I will be putting new seals and bearings in the NOS bolster I have. As far as I can tell the cylinder works just fine. Looks like I will have to block up the tub, remove the tie rod ends, remove the front axle and drop the bolster out with the steering shaft left in the bolster. Thanks for the tip on blocking up the cylinder. Is there anything keeping the shaft in the cylinder or will it slide out?
 
The shaft goes up into the gear, it will stay in the cylinder. The cylinder actually sits on top of the shaft. The whole thing will drop down when you remove the steering arm. There's also a thrust washer under the arm. Probably better to pull the cylinder off but that involves removing the radiator. You'll have to slide the assembled bolster up around the steering shaft. Use nuts and threaded rods to pull the bolster up so you can guide it on the shaft.
My pin was loose at the front end, too, but some shim stock and Loctite took care of that. Idiot PO left the big nuts on the stay rod loose. The lock washers and collars embedded into the ears on the center tube.
 
Thanks for all the information. Yes I do have a manual but the neighbor has it right now as he is working on a 1550 for someone else. Thanks again.
 

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