White 2-135 Engine Removal

What is the best way to remove the engine from a White 2-135? Is it best to disconnect it at the clutch bell housing and use the special tool to keep the front pto shaft in place during removal OR is it easier to just remove the engine with the over/under still attached?

If I am to use the tool to hold the front pto shaft, where do you insert it? Any photos would be helpful.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

The first one I pulled,I left the Over/Under in the tractor. That wasn't a good plan. I thought I had a picture of the tool I made to hold that shaft,but I'm not finding it. If you need it,I can take another picture. The plug that you put that outfit in is on the right side as you're sitting on the seat. It sticks out the side,way back in there. It's not all that easy to get to,there are wires and hoses in the way.
The engine is extremely heavy,and more so with the Over/Under on it,but it's easier to pull all together. When it left it in,I had to pull the front pulley off the engine to clear the steering unit. With the Over/Under on it,it tipped up far enough for everything to clear. When you pull it all together,there aren't any bolts holding the Over/Under. Just take the four motor mount bolts out,then lift and slide it ahead. There's a cast flange that bolts to the front of the transmission housing. If you look up underneath and see where those bolts are,that part stays on the tractor. The Over/Under just slides right out of that. The Trunion coupler will either stay in or come with the Over/Under,it really doesn't matter as long as the PTO shaft comes with the motor. My guess is,it will since it's in oil in the coupler and in a dry hub up front. It's most likely to hang up in the front and stay put.

Thank you very much for your informative reply. So if I pull the motor with the over/under still attached to it then I don't need the special tool to hold the pto shaft?

The IT book makes it sound like I should pull the motor with the over/under disconnected but I thought when we did it before it was easier with the over/under still attached to the motor but I can't really recall.

Sorry I forgot to ask in my last reply, if you don't mind a picture of the spot where the special tool goes would be helpfully either way if you don't mind taking one.

The service manager at the Agco dealer told me they don't use that tool anymore when they pull everything together. I think you can see in there to know if the shaft is coming with the motor before you get it ahead very far. I did use it when I pulled everything in one piece,but I don't know that it was necessary.

The tool is just a 1/2 inch to quarter inch I think,reducer. I welded a nut to it and put a piece of threaded rod in it. I ground the end down and double nutted it.
I don't think you can see the plug in the second picture. It's a hex head plug,takes something like a 7/8ths wrench or so. It's back in there behind those hoses.

Thank you very much for the photos and all your help I greatly appreciated. I hope to get the engine pulled tonight and will try it without the tool and by leaving the over/under attached to the engine.

Thanks again!!!

I have tried doing it both ways leaving O/U in and taking both engine and O/U together. Either way it is heavy, but taking both out together seems easier.
I never bothered using a tool. Just kept an eye on the shaft. It usually slips off the coupler by itself.
It is a lot easier if you have one or two guys give you a hand.

One thing that I just remembered having to do to it when I pulled the engine,and it was a good thing there was some wear in the front end. I had to unbolt the front axle brace cross member from the frame,take the big bolt out of it,then I jacked the front up and stood a 2x6 on edge between the frame and that brace from the axle. Then I slid that cross member out and left the 2x6s in there. It was the only way I could get the pan to clear it. You'll see what I mean when you try to lift the engine and slide it ahead.