1855 rearend fluid

I see it calls for 80-90. For 300ft at a time this thing will get ragged on then back on the trailer.

I'm kinda torn if this is the right fluid to be using. Thoughts or opinions welcome!
 

Thanks rich. That was the other fluid I was considering. I'm also looking at schaffers gear oils.

My thoughts are the hytran will work good with the pressure lube system, however it does not have the same shear properties as a good 80-90. 2 modes of thought there.
 
I doubt if you'll see any benefits with lighter
oil. Keep the pump inlet screen and filter
clean. Plus light oil leaks out easier.
 
Here's something to think about. When a lubricant is under extreme pressure, it's viscosity changes and becomes very low. At that point, the only thing that prevents metal to metal contact is the oil additives which have adheared to the surfaces.

Back in the days of low power densities and lower quality additives, the way metal to metal contact was avoided was with thick oils. As additives have advanced, it's allowed viscosities to be reduced. This is why in the late 70's we saw a switch from gear oil to "universal" hydraulic/trans oils.

That all said and all other things equal, thicker oils still offer some additional cushion as they slow the rate lubricate is evacuated from the interface. It's a question of how close to the edge do you think you will run. Another way of thinking of it is running a high quality universal fluid may offer more protection than a cheap no name gear oil and free up some horsepower in the process.
 
This is not hard to figure out, The 1855 was designed to run 80-90W oil in the rear end. It has a separate hydrolic resavor and can use universal trans-hydrolic in that system. I would not put anything in the rear end but 80-90W oil with some additives like Shafers or others. As others have said thin oil will find a leak ware 80-90W wont. Knew a guy that pulled old tractors and swar up and down he could win more pulls running thin oil in the rear end than 80-90W, But after the 5th rear end he went back to 80-90W and stayed with it from then on. Lesson learned the hard way. I have even seen guys put 2 magnetic block heaters on the rear end days before a pull to warm and thin down the oil so it didn't put a drag on the power from the engine. I have seen a lot of things done over the years to make a tractor pull better, Most never worked out in the end. Bandit
 
(quoted from post at 17:33:45 01/09/15) Here's something to think about. When a lubricant is under extreme pressure, it's viscosity changes and becomes very low. At that point, the only thing that prevents metal to metal contact is the oil additives which have adheared to the surfaces.

Back in the days of low power densities and lower quality additives, the way metal to metal contact was avoided was with thick oils. As additives have advanced, it's allowed viscosities to be reduced. This is why in the late 70's we saw a switch from gear oil to "universal" hydraulic/trans oils.

That all said and all other things equal, thicker oils still offer some additional cushion as they slow the rate lubricate is evacuated from the interface. It's a question of how close to the edge do you think you will run. Another way of thinking of it is running a high quality universal fluid may offer more protection than a cheap no name gear oil and free up some horsepower in the process.

It'll be a road gear puller, the rear has been needled. So schaffers oil it is.
 

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