Oliver 1650 Diesel Starting Problem

Married2Allis

Well-known Member
Hello, I'm looking at a '66 Oliver 1650 Diesel with the front adjustable axle. I've just talked over the phone to the dealer, and just want good reasons enough to drive 250 miles to see it. Not sure how many hours, but overall looks in pretty nice condition -- not a rust bucket. The guy says it runs good but will only start if he pulls it to get it going. He said that it cranks but won't catch. Any ideas? Worried that there maybe something major wrong. Could it be a timing thing? Wish I knew what it sounded like when trying to start. Thanks.
 
Not much to go on here. The 1650 started pretty good down to about 20 degrees if everything was up to snuff.

Could be as simple as a starter rebuild, could be low compression from lots of hours on the motor, or about 100 other things in between. Personally, I'd go with the idea, I'm looking at a motor overhaul until I saw otherwise.
 
the 1650/1655 are known for starting rough. Even brand new they
were not a tractor that started on the first crank.

You can adjust the valve protrusion and make sure it is set to specs.
That helps a lot. Other than that, there are gear reduction starters
they make for Olivers and those help it turn over much faster. Also
you can replace the pre-heater, because they help the tractor to
start as well. Also you can plug it in and use the block heater to
help it start.

My 1655 starts fine after using the preheat in the summer, but it
does not start in the winter. Luckily I do not need it in the winter.
 
If its the older style engine you'll going to have to plug it it to get satisfactory starts in cold weather at least I do to get mine to start.Also the batteries need to be in good condition to really spin the engine to make it start easier.If I plug mine in for a couple hrs it'll start like it 90+ degrees on a hot July afternoon.
 
I agree with Donald. I have a 68 model 1650 diesel. I put a gear
reduction starter on and it now starts good, but I usually won't
try to start it below 32, I don't have power nearby to plug it in. I
would want to see a compression test on the engine, or else get
enough discount to help pay for a rebuild.
 
Thanks, I appreciate all of the info. The guy who is selling it wouldn't tell me the hours on it, claiming there's no way to tell if it's reliable. But he has alot of other tractors on TractorHouse/Fastline with hours listed. So he may be holding back on me. I know he could do a compression test if he wanted to, I should ask him.
 
By the year that would be a lanova injection system with the
injectors in the head horizontally on the left side and
precombustion cambers on the right.

They aren't known for excellent starting. They will start good
with good sealing rings and the intake valves set flush with the
deck.

It would probably start on ether but they are tricky to ether in my
opinion without nasty knocking.

I would make sure it doesn't make a bunch of blowby but you
will need to use your own judgement.

The one I worked on will start in cold weather with manifold
preheat.

RT (my 2 cents)
 
''Nasty knocking'' spells death to top piston rings, so not a good
'cure'.

Maybe a slightly more volatile fuel would help in cold
conditions, as well as all the previous suggestions. I have
started engines with a feed of propane or butane into the air
intake, where the engine was burning some of the diesel (as an
ignition source for the propane/butane). Just don't use heater
plugs or manifold heaters with explosive mixtures present!

Any compression test he does will likely be on the optimistic
side? Results will be raised and inconsistencies between pots
minimised? I might, if I was selling it and was not completely
honest.
 

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