Oilver 1850 Steering Conversion

I am new to the forum, so really appreciate any support you can provide.

Am in the process of restoring my Dad's 1967 Oliver 1850 Perkins diesel.

Looking for detailed information as to how to deal with replacing the old Saginaw hydramotor. Currently has oil in steering column(leaking), and tightening handle/shaft is seized.

From my research it sounds like the best solution is to replace with a Char-Lynn unit.

My question is what is the best cost effective solution to retrofitting. Don't really want to bother with old used parts or rebuilding Saginaw unit.

See that their are two kits available for about $900. Hoping to spend a little less.
Seen some use the Easton motor and steering shaft to mount inside the Saginaw housing. Looks like a good option, but have NO idea what part numbers or model is best.

So, thanks for any details you can provide about this conversion process. Thanks a bunch!

Dont buy the new one from AGCO and dont buy the new one the guy has advertised on Ebay, they dont look anything like the origional, they dont telescope, and they wont work with the right Oliver steering wheel. Your best option for the Char-Lyn unit would be find an origional mounting bracket and steering column and buy a new steering motor and wheel. Just did the conversion on my 1600 earlier this summer. Get ahold of the Tractor Doctor up in Mondovi Wisconsin 888-506-6385. We bought all the conversion parts from him and he was pretty reasonable and if he doesnt have it he can probably find it. Be advised though, you probably arent going to do a Char-Lyn conversion the right way for much less than $900 no matter what you do.

Thanks bunch for the response.

The unit functions ok, but has oil up in the steering column. Assume this should not be?

From the repair manual and diagrams I have it appears I might be able to replace the upper seals if I can match the parts.

This is the most intriguing conversion I have found. Just don't know what model numbers he used.

http://public.fotki.com/MyronKY/char-lynn_steering/

The kits advertised on ebay are a poor example of a conversion.

#1 the bracket is made wrong. The pivot holes are not tapered, the leg for the tilt lock holes is too short and does not contact the tilt pin. The motor mounting surface is too high and if you try to use the correct AGCO hoses with it the hoses hit the throttle shaft. It does not have a provision for the band clamp on the motor. Without the band clamp when you pull on the steering wheel you are pulling on the leg weld. A lot of leverage and not much weld. I got tired of these problems and recently reproduced the factory original correct bracket.

#2 The steering wheel, well that speaks for itself.

#3 the hoses are wrong. That type of hose will push and pull whenever you tilt the wheel, wearing on them until they leak. The correct AGCO hoses have a 270 degree end on them and are designed to flex, not move when tilting the wheel.

#4 the column doesn't telescope, that's a matter of preference. Non-telescoping columns exist that accept the correct steering wheel. Used original telescoping columns are getting tough to find in good condition. The number one problem being water damage. The rubber cap in the center of the wheel deteriorates and allows water in the column, rusting it solid, freezing it solid in freezing weather, and rusting the top of the steering motor until the seal surface is shot.

$900 won't buy a good quality all new conversion. More like $1200 with a non-telescoping column.

That oil in the column is just caused by a seal leaking. There's a seal kit for those from Agco. I bought one last year,seems like the whole kit was $32. Not near as bad to change as I thought it was. It can be changed with the unit right in the tractor. The biggest job is unhooking everything to pull the dash off to get to it. I'd get a new nut for the column when you get the seal.
You can take care of the telescope issue when you take the column off to get to the seal.

Thanks a bunch, bunch!! That is really good information.

Think that is what I will do, get the kit if available. Or, disassemble and find the seals. Not having the remove the complete unit sounds great too.

Agree with other responses, the Char-Lynn retrofit from the Saginaw unit is a last alternative if you can't get the Saginaw working. Usually with the correct replacement parts any leak can be solved.

Thanks again tremendously!

used a kit from "force america" on a 1600 thought it was reasonable priced if interested email me and i can get u some specific useful info to keep it the original look.

That sounds great, just let me know how to get your email. Or, post the details.

Jerry with Ag Parts First can order an aftermarket seal and/or bearing kit for the unit. Not sure who the maker is.
He has been excellent to work with. Very knowledgeable and excellent service.

Thanks a bunch!

sorry I thought the email link was open but you can also try to email directly [email protected]