Cold Blooded 1650

sieg

New User
I talked to gentleman selling a gas 1650 on the phone. He says its starts great but is cold blooded and takes 5 minutes to warm up before it can do anything. It has the hydro-power drive transmission. He claims all the gears work. What could be causing the lack of power for the first 5 minutes? Is it likely to be a hydraulic component in the transmission?
 
cold blooded does not necessarly mean there is anything wrong with it. some of the older gassers were like that. Motor had to warm up some to run right. If you have more information about it post back.
 
Thanks! I will gather more information. A friend has a Case 580 backhoe of the same vintage. He has to put it in drive for 10 minutes with the wheels elevated before he can even move due to the transmission. I don’t want to even bother looking if this is a potential with the Oliver transmission.
 
Ya,could be just an off the cuff remark meaning it's that long before you have to stop fooling with the choke,which is about right.
 
Plenty of ollies are run in the winter time. I'm thinking it's just the choke issue. I know my 16 likes a little choke when you first start it up in the winter.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
I'd tell your friend to get on the case forum and ask questions cause there's probly something wrong with it, being it's a backhoe it probly has a shuttle shift trans and he has to do that to get the fluid warmed up/circulated for it to work right. The Oliver won't have a problem like that though.
 
My 770 is a bit cold blooded it needs to warm up it runs good but if you advance the throttle it will sputter and many time die starts right backup when warmed it runs perfect just purrs. I've noticed it more on the Oliver than other tractors I have and I've tried adjusting the carb buit it just needs to warmup.
GB in MN
 
Hydro power transmissions are what I would call cold blooded in cold weather, It takes a bit for them to get the oil circulating. Not nearly 5 minutes but at least let the clutch out and get the oil circulating in neutral before putting it in gear. Maybe a 30 second process. Even then best to run in low till it all gets warm as moving all that oil and the stiff oil in the transmission and rear end take some power and the engine also has to warm up to have full power.
 
All good points on the tranny oils as that stuff can be thick when cold.

Thast said, Every gas engine has a personality so to speak. I have some that require lots of choke to start and a hint of choke to keep em running until warm (minute or two). Others choke em start em turn the choke off and begin work. simply depends.

What I thought was my most cold blooded tractor (Farmall h) has greatly improved since I simply changed the plugs. Carb, timing, valves, etc were all adjusted to spec. Tractor ran fine when warm but was always extremely cold blooded on initial cold start caompared to my other clunkers. Changed the plugs on my Farmall m and thought I might as well do the h too, as a preventative measure. Old champion plugs were in there when I bought the thing and they looked ancient. Put Autolite 3116 in there and changed nothing else and the tractor is much less cold blooded. Difference was so noticeable that I picked up 2 more and put in the JD A as well. Helped it slightly too, but near as much the the Farmall h.
 
Put a new distributer on it which will get rid of the vacuum advance that likely doesn't work. Then you'll notice a difference
 

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