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Tricks to installing a chain coupler on an 1850

A

Alan K

Well-known Member
Are there any tricks to installing a chain coupler on an 1850 Diesel? Its on a neighbors tractor. The engine is wore out and misses badly which no doubt affected the chain life. I have the chain all the way around but cant get the pins lined up as the chain seems to be binding and I cant get it wrapped around tight enough to line up the pins. I wondered if it was out of alignment in the first place. I know they are supposed to have slight movement when installed. Kind of a bugger to get at.
 
Without going into alignment or worn out chain issues, installing the link in the coupling goes a LOT easier if the chain is free/loose and well-oiled.
 
We had installed a new one on their other 1850 and that went together ok. If I remember correctly that had a slight bit of play in the chain so Im guessing this one must be binding somewhere.
 
When you get the pins in use LONG cotter pins that go through both of the chain pins, or you"ll be putting it back on again real soon. Do the sprockets line up, is one sprocket higher than the other, if so may have to adjust the bolt that goes up through the frame to help support the OU drive unit, I remember having to do this on an 1800 A series.
 
Where is the bolt located? I bet one sprocket is a little higher, as it just doesn't "feel" right. The other 1850 we put one on, the chain didn't bind as bad as this one. I know if it binds it is just going to wear out in short order but hard to "explain" that to the owner. Do the rear motor mount bolts have to be loosened for adjustment?
 
Do you have it in under drive? Not that it'll help with the alignment,but you can turn it one way with it in under. That might take some stress off of it.
 
There is a bolt that goes through the frame underneath the O/U unit. It allows you to raise or lower the O/U unit for vertical alignment. Horizontal alignment, I believe, would mean you have to loosen the motor mount bolts enough to move the motor slightly one way or the other. Those sprockets need to be alinged or the chain will wear quickly. Those chains should last for years and years. Only ever replaced two of them from the mid-1960's to now and that was because we didn't use the long cotter pin and the chains were run only half together and sprung the crap outta the chains.

I put the chain on and put the pins through from the back side and put the long cotter pin through the front. They can start easily or can be a real bear to start, depending on the phase of the moon, the mood of the local witch doctor, and whether or not Mr. Murphy is on duty or on vacation.
 
Well, apparently yesterday the witch doctor WAS Mr. Murphy, during the full moon lol. Will check out the bolt.
 
Yes it is in underdrive. I noticed that as well with rotating it. Im guessing I might have to check more with the alignment when I have time. The owner did mention the two bolts by the side frame were missing, Im guessing they are the rear motor mounts...lol what did I get myself into?
 
If its missing those two bolts you will have to do some shimming and some new bolts to get it right, I would check the front bolts while your at it as they maybe loose too. Bandit
 
If memory serves me correctly seems like the dealer drilled a 3/4 hole, threaded it, took a piece of flat iron, counter bored an indention for the end of bolt to push up a little on the hydra shift to help relieve stress on back of engine plate.
 
Another trick is to use a triple chain master link and you can slightly bend the pins in to get them to start also you can grind the inside of the pins to get them to start.
 
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