Power steering geometry

rrlund

Well-known Member
Pretty sure I know this one,but I just can't quite seem to get it through my head.
When I had that 2-135 apart last year and had the steering cylinder/rack out of it,I got it back together wrong. The pinion gear must be one notch off. It doesn't turn as short to the left as it should and too far to the right.
If I take the cap off and pull the gear out,I need to stick a bar between the tire and spindle and turn the wheels slightly to the left don't I? Then drop the gear back down on the splines so it's one cog over from where it was? That should make it turn slightly shorter to the left than it does now,correct? I don't think turning the wheels to the right is the correct way to go is it? I know there are supposed to be marks on the gear and rack,but just in case I can't find them.
Isn't it fun to get old?
 
Randy your logic sounds good to me. Read your post more times than I will admit. Then I drew a
diagram with arrows and a stick figure with a bar(the stick figure did not look like you).
The way I do it is put a jack under the front end and raise it a little so it is easy to move the front wheels to straight forward with a bar. You should be able to see the punch mark in the gear(It is out now). The two marks in the rack are harder to see. With the gear out, take a tire iron and tip the rack forward so you see the two timing marks. Put ink dot on all three marks. I get the liguid ink pens at the local welding supply or Fastenal. The wheels are already straight and now use the tire iron and move the rack to center. Might have to loosen the two steering lines(usually not). Put the gear in. Then to double check; mark a center mark in front of the front end. on the ground. Take the bar and move the front end left and right. When at the end of each turn, measure from the center line to the same place on the bar on left and right throws.
If the tractor(when running) still does not turn to the left as far as it should, the cylinder might need to have a new rebuild kit in it. The cylinder leak thing only happened to me once. It seems weird, but I doubt that is your problem.
I would bet with you that this method will work, but I might forget to collect. I think I am a few years older than you. Every 2 or 3 days my wife and I debate(argue) who has the worst dementia.
 
Maybe if the wheels weren't sitting straight right now it would be easier to figure out. If they were turned left as far as they will currently go and I took the gear off,then pulled the wheels around to where I want them and dropped the gear back in,it would be where I want it.

But then,about one out of every ten times I run it through my head,I think "no you dummy,when you pull it around,you're moving the gear not the rack". I think I need to just quit thinking about it that tenth time.
 
Is it the same type gear as the 50 series? I have mine apart right now. The center tooth on the rack gear is clearly marked. The only marks I found on the pinion are what looks like a very small punch mark right in the corner of the top surface of the gear and the vertical section the goes into the cap. Marks are opposite one another and in line with one spline on the gear ID.
 
Ya,I found them. I took the lines off and slid the rack over. I got it.
I had a devil of a time getting the gear back in there though. I thought the splines must not be quite lined up. I messed with that thing for at least 20 minutes,sweat running in my eyes,shirt getting wetter by the minute. I finally stuck a bar under the back of the housing and lifted a little and it dropped right in.
 
Good, I took some pictures of mine in case you might need visuals. I found if you roll the top edge of the rack away a little it gives you room to start the gear. It will pull the rack back in place when you tighten down.
 

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