1850 pto drive shaft round 2

O K so I finally got a little time around lunch to try things on the 1850 again . I had a young man who helps me look with a light[his eyes are better than mine] and to make a long story short the drive gears[the ones with the roller chain] appear to need to need to go very slightly down and to the left. With a good light you can see where the shaft has rubbed the back of it on the lower left side. What is the best way to adjust this? Thanks for any replies,Lee
 
When putting the engine back in did you use dowel bolts in the front left and right back of the engine block holes that go thru the frame.
Is the tractor a gas or diesel?
 
It is diesel. I didn't do the build it was an older guy who had been an automotive machinist for 30 plus years. He got sick and still had a few things left to do so here I am. I will try to contact him and see but much of the time he is gone taking chemo. Thanks, lee
 
You can easily check. Loosen the left-front and right-rear mount bolts. If there is no slop, those are the right bolts. I forget what the exact dimensions are, but I think they are a very tight 9/16. The other bolts should be half inch, I think.
 
It's a Perkins. There aren't any front bolts like the Waukesha blocks had. There's just a single center front mount on those. It has kind of a rubberized mount with some give to it.
I wouldn't mess with that at all. You'll have to get all of the movement from the rear mounts.
 
Randy your right on your info. I had the impression it was a gas tractor. The 1850 Perkins engine had a trunion mount one bolt in the front. I never had trouble lining up the engine left to right. Sometimes we put shims under the under the rear mounts to even up the sprockets. But usually the factory shims were enough,
This problem seems to be getting a little strange. Is there any chance somebody put a Cummins or other engine in it? I would advise first to see how many motor mounts it has.
One time I picked up a 354 with no trunion mount in the front. Make two front motor mounts and tapped the top of the belly to mount. Castings on Olivers are easy to drill and tap.
 
I'm wondering if the front mount is worn letting the front of the motor come down a little,but as much of a wiz as the old guy who had it seemed to be,I wouldn't think he'd put something back together like that if it wasn't right.
I'm wondering too,if maybe some shims between the tub and the front mount might be necessary though? The hydropower sticks out behind the rear mounts quite a ways. Wouldn't take much to change the geometry.
 
Randy,
I think he is saying the engine has to go up. On an 1850D I have seen a few trunions and front covers pounded out quite badly. Your right either
the front has to get shimmed up or the back has to go down. If no shims in the back, I guess that limits him to shim up the front.
A couple times when we had too small a bolt in the back we just lined the sprockets up and really tightened them. They did hold the engine down well.
One time I had misalgined sprockets on a turned up 1850. Put the tractor on a field cultivator.
Ran it about 20 minutes and checked the coupler
chain. It was a dull red.
 
"to make a long story short the drive gears[the ones with the roller chain] appear to need to need to go very slightly down and to the left"

Trying to figure a little geometry here. I wonder if the right rear was shimmed a little to roll it slightly left,then shim the front to bring the rear down? The problem is going to be to not change the angle so much that the splines on the shaft aren't sliding straight in to the flywheel.
 
Thanks fellas I hope I can look at it some tomorrow afternoon. I was late getting done working cows tonight so I didn't get to work on it today. Spent the a.m. cleaning up storm damage/checking fences. Seems like the miles on on my odometer are catching up to me. I really appreciate the help you guys give me. Thanks again, Lee
 

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