Cobbled together 88/S88/880?

jrypka · Jun 9, 2014

I've got a 1955 Super 88 (S/N 10246), but I think it has got a bunch of different engine parts on it. The block is a K100C, which seems to be from a 88. The carb is a Zenith 12259 and the intake is a 101337A, both of which seem to be from an 880.

The problem I'm having is that in order to get it to run, I've got to have the air screw all the way in and the choke about 1/2 way out. I put a new carb kit in and that didn't seem to help. So, I was planning on putting in a new or reman carb, and in trying to find the right carb for it I found that it seems to have a bunch of different parts on it.

So my question is, if it really is a 880 carb on an 88 block, could that be causing me problems? If I put a new 880 carb on it (with 2 5/8 c-c bolt holes to match the intake) will that help it run better? Or is that carb a bad match for that block?

Thanks for your help.

oliver90owner · Jun 10, 2014

Soo, not enough fuel.

That could be something very simple, like float level, blocked,
poorly adjusted, or wrong sized main jet. Those among
possible others, like a downstream air leak into the manifold or
insufficient flow to the carb.

The block liners might be any of different sizes, so not likely a
problem in that area. Concentrate on the fuel system is my
advice.

RAB

J.Wondergem · Jun 10, 2014

Have you checked for an intake leak sucking air?

jrypka · Jun 10, 2014

(quoted from post at 04:47:01 06/10/14)

Have you checked for an intake leak sucking air?

I tried spraying ether around the carb and the intake and I didn't get any changes in engine speed. I don't really know how else to check for an intake leak. Any suggestions?

jrypka · Jun 10, 2014

(quoted from post at 00:06:24 06/10/14) Soo, not enough fuel.

That could be something very simple, like float level, blocked,
poorly adjusted, or wrong sized main jet. Those among
possible others, like a downstream air leak into the manifold or
insufficient flow to the carb.

The block liners might be any of different sizes, so not likely a
problem in that area. Concentrate on the fuel system is my
advice.

RAB

We took the carb apart and it was pretty rusty. Soaked in it muratic acid to clean it out, then put the new carb kit in. Float seemed OK. Air flow to the carb seems OK because it runs the same with or without the breather hose hooked up.

I don't know anything about jet size or adjustment. Any tips you can give me on that would be appreciated.

oliver90owner · Jun 10, 2014

I was thinking fuel restricted to the carb. If air intake restriction
further upstream of carb, the effect would likely be too much
fuel in the mixture(similar to the strangler).

How did you set the foat level when fitting the kit? If the kit is
different in that area the fuel level may have been altered. I'm
not conversant with the different carbs on those tractors. Mine
tend to be the earlier types (I have 60s, a 70, 80s and 90s).

Have you checked for a consistently good fuel flow into the carb? You can spray an oil mixture around the inlet gaskets, etc
to see if there is a manifold leak. I would not recommend ether
anywhere near a spark ignition engine. Maybe check spark plug
electrodes and insulators to see if one or more pots are very weak.

RAB

jrypka · Jun 10, 2014

(quoted from post at 08:37:22 06/10/14) Have you checked for a consistently good fuel flow into the carb? You can spray an oil mixture around the inlet gaskets, etc
to see if there is a manifold leak. I would not recommend ether
anywhere near a spark ignition engine. Maybe check spark plug
electrodes and insulators to see if one or more pots are very weak.

RAB

I haven't but I am going to take off the fuel line to the carb tonight and make sure I've got a good flow. Also, I sprayed WD-40 around the inlet gaskets, but didn't notice anything. Would I get an engine response, or see bubbles, or what if there is a leak?

Centerplate · Jun 10, 2014

I rebuilt a carb on a tractor and had to take it apart four times till I cleaner one of the passages so it would draw enough fuel to run. You are not getting enough fuel.

oliver90owner · Jun 10, 2014

Not going to see bubbles as that part of the system must be
under a partial vacuum at least.

Might notice a change in engine sound.

Better to check any drain on the carb - that way the float
metering jet is put under test, too.

If it were that, the engine should start OK but need choke, when
the float chamber fueling becomes diminished. Perhaps 30
seconds later, maybe longer.

Guessing at a distance, but float level would be my starting
point now, if I were sure everything you say you have done , is
hunky-dory. I think, from memory, all mine are slow running
fuel jets, so more affected by main power jet setting. Might get
my books out again later tonight.

RAB

Dick W. · Jun 10, 2014

I would take that carb apart again and run tag wire
thru every hole/port in the carb. You will most
likely find one that the wire won't want to go
thru. Clean it out. set the float to high side of
spec. If you need more fuel still, use a set of
number drills and measure the main jet and then
drill it out 2 drill sizes bigger. If you are
farming with it go a little at a time until you get
it running ok. If you go too far you can start
again with another jet.

Baelee05 · Jun 11, 2014

You have a jet that is still plugged or partially plugged. If the carb was that rusty when you started it is not surprising that you could still have a little crud in there somewhere. I would take the carb apart again. Disassemble as completely as possible and soak it in carb cleaner for a couple of days or take it to an engine shop and have them boil it out. Make sure you can run a wire thru all ports, passages, and jets or at least see if you can get penetrating oil to run thru them. If you do all of this and put it back together carefully getting the correct float setting I am betting it will run fine.

jrypka · Jun 11, 2014

Guys,

Thanks for all the tips. I will take it apart and clean it again. I just was sure we had it good and clean the first time. That muratic acid is an amazing cleaner.

The reason I was considering a new carb was because I was thinking this one might have a hairline crack in it somewhere. I've had a similar situation with a small engine carb on a tiller that I couldn't get to run at all. Took it in to the shop and he couldn't get it to run either, but there was a small crack in the casting allowing for air to get in and not letting it run right. New carb = problem solved. I was thiinking I might have the same problem with this one, but I'll try to clean it again.

Cobbled together 88/S88/880?

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