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Value of Oliver 60 row crop tractor

M

mr.precision

Member
A widow nearby has a Oliver 60 row crop tractor foe sale that has my attention.
It is complete (all sheet metal good but needs paint), tires are OK but not great, and she says it ran fine when parked 6 years ago.
This would join my collection, and do a little arena dragging but that's it.
So a couple of questions-
I don't mind fiddling with it to see if it will run. Were these 6 volt, positive ground? What would happen if I used a 12 volt battery to start it?
She wants $1300, which seems high based on what is found on YTM. I also hear that parts are more difficult to locate for the model 60, as opposed to the model 70.
Thanks in advance for your opinions.
Mike
 
6 volt, positive ground. Points, condenser and coil can be found at any auto parts store. Don't worry about the 6 volt system, it has more than enough giddy-up-go to start that engine in any weather. You can buy 2-10 amp 6 volt chargers at the auto parts stores. 10 amps is plenty to kick over a weak 6 volt battery.

The latest issue of the
Hart-Parr Oliver collectors mag features the 60. JS article on the engine tells you about everything you need to know about the engine.
Floyd County museum has the shop and parts manuals. I heard some say the front wheels are hard to find. Don't know about tranny parts. Never needed any. I paid my father's estate $650 for mine in running condition. Starts well and is downright miserly on fuel.
 
Thanks Donald. There is no battery on the tractor, and I am reluctant to spend $80 to buy one only to find the tractor isn't worth buying. Thus the question about 12 volts.
I always liked these Olivers.... and you never see them around here.
So I guess I have a choice whether to buy a 6 volt battery and roll the dice.
Mike
 
First of all, does it have a starter? Not all had them.

Next is what ignition, coil or magneto? Both types were fitted.

If magneto ignition, starting with a 12 volt battery is no problem
at all. If coil ignition, then a dropping resistor should be fitted to
protect the coil and points from over-current and the dynamo
and regulator would also need to be disconnected, along with
making sure any/all lights were turned off, of course.

Both of mine are magneto ignition and only one is fitted with a
starter - I think.

RAB
 
Went back and had another look today.
Electric start.... everything appears correct and in place based on the pictures I've seen on the internet. Even the tires are better than I initially thought. Clutch has a mile of free play but does eventually move the pressure plate. Hope the disc isn't stuck.
No hand crank, but engine turns at the crank pulley.
So I took the plunge and bought a new battery. Tomorrow I will see if it runs. Pix to follow if bought.
 
1300 is top dollar for a 60 that doesn't run. more like 800.00. make sure the rear tires and rims are good. pretty hard to find used ones.If it turns over it will run.
 
It was a fun day trying to get this tractor running.
First, I pulled the plugs.... and yep...water in the #3 cylinder. Squirted some lube oil in each bore, and had to work the motor via the driveshaft in order to free it up. Hmm, this is not good.
Second, had to unplug the sediment bowl, which was full of white colored powder. Of course the fuel lines were plugged too. Finally got fuel to the carb, installed the battery, and rolled the engine over. A column of water shot out of the #3 cylinder. Put some motor oil down each bore, rolled the engine over a few more times, and put the plugs back in.
Choke on, throttle about half open, and it started right up. Warmed up, no smoke, good oil pressure, quiet motor. Drove the thing around... clutch fine all gears work. So I paid $800 for it and hauled it off.
This isn't the 1st time I've seen water in the cylinders, so we'll see if any big problems develop during the restoration. I bought a John Deere 420 years ago with the same conditions....and still have it running fine after all these years.
 
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