Oliver 550 Engine oil

When I got the tractor it used no oil and the oil looked clean so i did not change the oil. Used it all summer mowing and it never used a drop of oil. Changed the oil in the fall and put in good 10-30w mobile oil (detergent). Parked the tractor for the winter. Mowed with it last summer and it started using oil, about 3 quarts through the summer mowing. Asked my brother-in-law about it who has a bunch of old John Deere"s and he chewed me out for using detergent oil. Told me I should not use it in these old motors. Another guy told me these old motors need some of the cheaper oils not these new slick oils because the tolerances in these old motors are not as close so the new slick oils run right through them. In some old posts I read they said detergent oil. Who is correct? Detergent or non detergent?
Thanks.

It sounds to me as if you are using automotive oil,which IMHO is not good for a tractor.I would use a good 15-40 diesel oil.Tractors get worked much harder and thus require better oil.

Ollie, I use 15-50 Mobil-1 in my 77 and 550. They never use any oil. When I tractor pull the 77 I spin it up to 4000 rpms. Last rebuild on the 77 was 12 years ago. Chuck

We use 15W-40 in all our tractors, gas or diesel. And it matters what brand too. We've run Rotella in the past, and the tractors would burn a quart in a day of hard pulling all day. Now we Mobil Delvac and the oil cunsumtion has been atleast cut in 1/2, and we watch the rebates so we can get the delvac cheaper than the store brand oils. I think Delvac should have a rebate for another couple weeks yet.

Donovan from Wisconsin

Detergent or non-detergent; thats an old question. I would be surprised if anyone would still sell non-detergent oil, it isn't good for anything any more. Your problem is most likely that the old owner didn't change the oil when it should have been changed. The engine is likely dirty inside and your better oil is cleaning as it was designed to do. Stick with your 10w30 and it will get the cleaning done. If your engine is worn it won't stop burning oil but when you would take it apart for new rings it will be much easier to work on without all the gunk in there. You might want to look for 10w30 diesel oil for that engine. Some of the new light oil specs don't provide good protection for old flat tappet/lifters. I use 10w30 Conklin Convoy oil in my gas super 66 and Convoy 15w40 in my super 55 diesels.

First of all, is it gas or diesel?

Most will be assuming gas as diesels should be run on detergent oils.

If it is a gas engine and has only been run on non-detergent the rings were likely gummed with varnish - but not now! The engine may well be due for an overhaul. Also it could be that the oil is going down the valve guides and not past the rings.

So top end or both top and bottom?

Now, if it is a diesel, it could be the light duties, that it is being expected to cover, without any hard work to keep the rings sealing in the bores.

So, which is it. Gas or diesel? Then the guessing can be reduced by about half.

RAB

It is gas

The medium-priced automotive oil of today is better than the best oil when the 550 was built. I disagree that slow-running comparatively large displacement tractor engines work any harder than a turbocharged automotive engine turning 4000 RPM. Diesel is a different story but 10w-30 should work fine in a gasoline or LP-gas tractor.
Now I say "should". Could be leaking and not burning oil also.

I would, if I were worried about it (3 USquarts is not so much, financially), be checking to see if it is guides or rings. Compression test or look at valve seals initially.

Changing to a 40 grade oil would possibly help, but I don't think I would go any thicker than that. Changing the oil manufacturer would be good at the next oil change to check if it is an oil quality issue. I have had cars that used appreciable amounts of non-synthetics, but very little synthetics.

Checking the fuel settings might be good if it is often running rich - that can wash oil from the bores, particularly if the engine is rarely up to temperature. That would tend to dilute (but thin out) the oil.

Even a restricted air cleaner can have an effect by increasing the vacuum at the inlet valves.

All small items, but they can be cumulative. Checking plug insulators may give an indication if one or two cylinders in particular or a general malaise. Does it leak or breathe heavily?

I always reckon that the bottom end is most important - good oil supply to the crank bearings is the most important. If it has an oil pressure guage, is the pressure lower now than before,
when hot?

Then there is the possibility that the oil in the engine, when you got it, was chosen to reduce or cover up any underlying defects. Could you enquire to the vendor, of the oil that was in use when you purchased?

I would not be immediately pulling it apart until I had some idea of what needed doing. Valve guide seals are cheap and don't need any major dismantling to replace, for instance.

Hope this gives you some ideas to get to the root of the problem.

RAB

Thanks for all the information. It gives me many things to check.
Ollie