Need help with 1600 PTO clutch

Need help and any advice on rebuilding 1600 PTO clutch. Engagement lever has vibration and knocking, did some adjustment on it and took off cover, to my notion throw out bearing seems sloppy. Plates don't look all that good. Looks like all the shims are there.
Don't think any were every removed to adjust clutch. I have a repair manual, but talks about pulling the whole unit out and using a press for disassembly which I don't have. I don't think the bearing or seal in the housing are bad. I'll admit I'm an rookie on this kind of work.

My 1550 was doing the same thing, Lever was chattering and viberating around. I took the cover off and took the clutch pack apart and found the problem. The splines on the drive shaft are shot as well as the centers of the pto clutch disks were shot also. I have a new shaft on order and new clutch disks but I am sure the hub on the flywheel is shot and will have to pull the engine to fix it.

The pto clutch on a 1550 and the 1600 are the same except for the long drive shaft that goes to the engine so parts wont be to bad to get. One thing to watch out for are the 3 small spring that hold the center plate from chattering. You cant buy new ones from Agco. In the first picture is the pto drive shaft ware the clutches ride on and is shot. 2nd one is the clutch disks and the 3rd is the little springs not to loose. If its viberating while running I would pull the clutch pack apart and check the splines on the drive shaft and the splines on the clutch disks to see if there bad. Its not a bad job to do just takes time to do it right. Just let me know if you need help and I will do what I can to help you out. Bandit

Thanks for the pictures! So from the pictures it looks like you just unbolted the pressure plate?
The repair manual talks about removing the whole clutch pack all together and then disassembling?
You said you had ordered the parts from AGCO, can you give me hint on the expense of this repair?
In the parts pictures there is some snap rings to remove? can you tell me a little more about the disassembly? I appreciate the help.

Take it down to how it is shown in the pictures. No you can not remove the clutch as a unit as the disks have to be removed to get at the 4 3/8 inch cap screws. It might be easier to remove the 3 cap screws that hold the assembly in the gear box and dis assemble the unit on the bench by clamping the long shaft in a vice/ That way you can also inspect the splines on the front end.

The 1st picture is a complete clutch pack and no you don't have to take the whole thing out to work on it. But to take it apart just take the 3 sets of 2 bolts out, The brass shims are slotted so be carefull they will fall out and also take care not to loose or brake the little springs as you cant buy them from Agco. Mark all the parts in some manner as you take them apart so you know how to put it back together.

To take the throw out bearing off on the backside of it there are 3 pins with snap rings on them just don't loose any as they are small (see picture 2). I don't know if you can just buy the bearing or just the whole thing with the casting I am not sure. If the bearing is loose or sounds rough I would replace it.

When you get all the disks out and the center plate off you will be down to the backer plate that bolt to the shaft hub. Its held on by 4 3/8 bolts that have a metal washer that's bent up to keep the bolt from turning (see picture 3). Now to take the shaft out there are 3 bolts on the big casting (behind the hub that the clutch pack bolts to)that hold a bearing. Take the bolts out and to slide the shaft out you are going to need a pry bar and pry on the back of the 4 bolt hub (picture 4) and NOT the bearing casting(it will brake easy!) and work from one side to the other and it should come out and then you can pull the whole shaft out.

As for parts the long drive shaft from the engine is about $280 and the hub on the flywheel is about $150 and the clutch disks are about $45 each (needs 2). I think the throw out bearing is about $75 last time I looked on ebay. Its not a cheep fix but a tractor without a pto aint worth much so you got to fix them. As for the parts I ordered I got them from an old White dealer and they got them from A&I as Agco wont sell them parts anymore. So I should have said A&I or aftermarket but I still think of them as a dealer. I hope this helps. Bandit

I should probably warn that the cheap aftermarket discs are just that. I put new ones in my 1600 about 6 years ago and had to again last year as the rivets wore the holes they were in to slots and they came apart. New ones from AGCO are about 2x the price but if the discs do it again I'm gonna go that route. Our 1600 does some pretty heavy pto work so I'm not holding my breath.

When I did it the first time I also resurfaced the plates as they warped from slipping under load. Being a machinist it was easy to stick them in a lathe and take a skim cut. I also had to repair several of the threaded holes in the plates because they stripped out. I simply welded them shut, then redrilled then and tapped them.

Donovan from Wisconsin

Thanks for the pictures and info, Guess I'm headed to AGCO for parts!

Thanks for the info!

Thanks for the info on the clutch disc, I think I will go with the better disc. If I understood you right you turned the center disc down too?
I guess I could take that to the local auto parts store and have them turn that like a flywheel, etc?

I don't know if they'd be able to do it very easy or not. Might be easier to find a good machine shop and have them do it. Key is to not take much off, and in the front and back I think I took an equal amount off the 3 pads where the bolts go so the clearances would all be good yet.

Donovan from Wisconsin

Just an idea. What about taking the disks to a rebuilder, that rebuilds truck clutches, and have them reline the disks?

As long as the discs themselves are alright, meaning the splines are good as well as the rivets.

Donovan from Wisconsin

Any chance you could shoot me a picture of the splines on the end of your shaft. I would like to see what they look like compared to mine when I get it a part.
Thanks

Not the best pic but its worn bad, Just look at the center of the clutch disk, This is why mine was shaking so bad. I hope yours aint this bad. Bandit

I should add this 1550 utility was bought by the former owner in 1971 used and was on a small dairy farm and baled a lot of hay and ran a stand-by generator when the power went off so it has a lot of pto hours on it. This is what a clutch pack looks like with a hard pto life running a baler. Bandit

Hey thanks for the extra pictures. That gives me something to judge this tractor with.
This tractor I bought pretty cheap, it doesn't have many hours on it,just turned over 4000 hours and the previous owner ran it on a shredder.(tractor looked like it had been to hell and back)
I've been trying to restore it and
I have used it the last couple of years on a round baler and shredder clipping pastures. This is my first Oliver, always had the other color of green and still own one but I really like this old dog. I have been on many John Deere tractors this size and bigger and I know this tractor will out pull and out work them.