1850 Differential Problem.

Kelly MT

Member
A while back I wrote in about a clunk in the diff. of my 1850. I finally got into it and it does look like I have a chipped tooth as well as parts off the PTO clutch. It looks like the chip came from the pinion gear as the bull gears look good. Can I slide the axle out of housing to free the bull gear to get the pinion out? I have a cab and removing the axle housing is a major job. The last picture is of the parts I found in the bottom of the case. There are several missing parts I didn't find. Any how,any advise is welcome. PK
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I'm not familiar with the 1850 but I have a 1550. You may be able to pull the bull pinions out the side after removing the brake. Do one at a time to keep things in place.
 
Can not do that on the 1850. Also yes they had a little tool in the Oliver tool kit to use to push the axle out. It will take 2 of you to reinstall the axle. One to align the bull gea the other to move the axle.
 
That's good news. I can use a porta-power to push the axle out of the bull gear. Any surprises removing the pinion assembly away from the spider? Wondering about the inner bearing. PK
 

If I remember right, you'll have to remove all the transmission gears to get the pinion shaft out. I also used the Porta Power to push the shafts out, but I slid the housings out with them. I had the front input shaft bearing go out and the debris went through the ring and pinion.
 
I usually get a 3/4 inch bolt and thread on a few nuts. Tack weld them together. Use the bolt and nuts as a press between the axles. You have to use some small steel plates as shims against the left axle. Push out a little less than the last few threads on the bolt. reshim and repeat. If you have a portapower that fits it might be easier to use that. The axle comes out fairly easily. One time I had a guy forget to take the bolts off on the retainer at the end of the axle housing.
The broken parts are obvious. Looks like the link got metal fatigue and failed. The fine thread and nut escape me now. Will look in a parts tractor and post back tomorrow.
 
I usually get a 3/4 inch bolt and thread on a few nuts. Tack weld them together. Use the bolt and nuts as a press between the axles. You have to use some small steel plates as shims against the left axle. Push out a little less than the last few threads on the bolt. reshim and repeat. If you have a portapower that fits it might be easier to use that. The axle comes out fairly easily. One time I had a guy forget to take the bolts off on the retainer at the end of the axle housing.
The broken parts are obvious. Looks like the link got metal fatigue and failed. The fine thread and nut escape me now. Will look in a parts tractor and post back tomorrow.
The nut,bolt, and spacer go on one side of the collar that engages the pto clutch. Can not quite tell what shape the brass collar is in.
 
Just posted a little tired I guess. Thought of where the bolt, spacer, and nut go. Any more questions, I can send you some pictures out of a parts book. Computer parts and images are here to stay, but I still like to look at an old parts book any day.
 
Thanks for the replies. I have a parts book and like you I like to have one on my bench. It looks like I can support the ring gear and slide the pinion assembly out. I'm not sure if the inner bearing will stay put or come out with the pinion gear. Any thoughts on that? PK
 
I got it all pulled down. I had three damaged teeth on the bull pinion. My worry about the inner bearing were founded. You can see all the rollers laying in the bottom of the case. You have to keep the pinion shaft pulled outward while removing the carrier. So far the hardest part was getting the tire and rim off and far enough away to pull the axle. PK
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I find in my parts book the bull pinion came in like 4 different part numbers. Worthington Ag Parts has several with the 13 teeth I need but different part numbers than mine, 158 924-A. Anyone know what the differences are? PK
 

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