I have a 48 Cockshutt that I have been restoring for 3 years. Good news is it runs great, bad news is the alternator is not charging the battery. I had the alternator tested and it is good (using 10SI style). Is there an issue with the engine not running at high enough RPM? When I start the tractor and pull the positive bat. cable, it dies. I am using an inline light and have an of/on ignition switch. Any help would be appreciated.
- Thread starter Brutus45
- Start date
Caleb Schwartz
Member
have you thought about putting a generator back on it and back to six volt? if its a 1948 that means it is a model 30 and that 4 cylinder engine turns over just fine on 6 volt and still has the original look unlike an alternator.
Roger Gillen
New User
Those alternators if let set for a time will lose their excitation and need to be excited again. It is an easy thing to do. My 30 with the same alternator does the same thing when it sets over the Winter with out running. I will check tomorrow on the procedure how to excite the alternator again, it is just a matter of jumping one terminal to another on the alternator, but the information is out in the shop.
Call me at 419-343-3678
Roger
Call me at 419-343-3678
Roger
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
You could have converted the generator to 12 volt and it would look very nice. If you are set on an alternator wire it up like it should be, in other words forget the single wire idea.Then you will not have that problem. My 2 cents worth. Caleb: I still have a care package for you, but don't know where to send it. J.
oliver90owner
Member
- Location
- UK
Tell us more. Every alternator I have come across has been excited by current through the rotor, simple as that.
Now, a DC generator (dynamo) is different and needs exciting if the polarity has been changed, or very occasionally if the magnetism has been lost (never had to do one myself).
Now, a DC generator (dynamo) is different and needs exciting if the polarity has been changed, or very occasionally if the magnetism has been lost (never had to do one myself).
Caleb Schwartz
Member
shoot me an email with your phone number. [email protected]
This tractor was owned by a relative and was converted back in 1980, sat for a long time and I have worked on restoring for a long time. It did work fine back then with the alternator. I would just assume stick with this for now. I did mention that the Alt. was checked about two days ago at AdvanceAuto and checked out good.
It is a Model 30 with the 4cyl. Buda engine.
It is a Model 30 with the 4cyl. Buda engine.
Dave Sherburne NY
Well-known Member
This is what I used on an Oliver, no problems at all. You can get the diode at Radio Shack real cheap 4 for 5bucks or something like that.
alternator how to
alternator how to
Find the problem and leave the gen light on there.
Not only is the light an alert to tell you if the alternator is wirking or that you have forgotten the ignition turned on, but the idiot light can make for easier starting.
Using a gen light to excite the alternator only adds 1/4 amp load on the ignition circuit to excite the alternator, while using a diode adds 2-3 amps load to excite the alt. This nearly doubles the load on the ign switch and wiring, which can cause voltage drop and weaker spark.
Not only is the light an alert to tell you if the alternator is wirking or that you have forgotten the ignition turned on, but the idiot light can make for easier starting.
Using a gen light to excite the alternator only adds 1/4 amp load on the ignition circuit to excite the alternator, while using a diode adds 2-3 amps load to excite the alt. This nearly doubles the load on the ign switch and wiring, which can cause voltage drop and weaker spark.
Dave Sherburne NY
Well-known Member
Here's another one, Bob Melvilles wiring diagrams. This is what I used when I rewired my COOP E3. I put a generator from a JD M on it and used a regulator instead of the generator cutout that came on it. On an Oliver 88 I put an alternator on it using Bob's diagrams. Both situations worked great. On the E3 you can see where I mounted the VR on the bell housing. By putting a shorter belt on the Oliver alternator it fit under the side panels. Never had to rev the engine to start the alternator charging either. If you want a diode email me with your address. I no longer do full size tractors, no room.
Bob Melvilles wiring Diagrams
Bob Melvilles wiring Diagrams
Ok, 99% sure all the wiring is correct. I have the warning light in line from the #1 white wire to the ignition switch. Test method says to turn on the ignition key and I should see the needle of the ammeter move slightly to the negative. This does not happen. Does this mean my ammeter is bad? I check voltage with a volt meter and getting correct voltage where I should be... Pulling my hair out here. The Alternator checked good at the parts store, so that should be ok. Is it possible I have a bad ammeter?
Ok, purchased a new ammeter (even though one installed was new). When I turn on the key the ammeter goes slightly negative GOOD and market light illuminates GOOD. When I start the engine and rev it up the ammeter needle goes to 0 position BAD? and the marker light stays on BAD. I did test voltage from the BAT terminal and ground and get 13.2 volts, which is not great but not that bad either. I also had the Alternator tested and they are showing 14.2V output. Why would I only be registering 13.2V instead of 14.2V and is this enough to charge the battery. I have not tried running long with the new ammeter, but it drained the battery last time. Any help is always appreciated!
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