rebuilding 1655 engin

luapp

Member
im slowly rebuilding the diesel in my 1655 is there any way to tell if its ben rebuilt before? all the rings were the crome type, its got 6500 hours on it and it was tired. bearings were all standard 6 point rod bolts and the wrist pin bushings were the 2 piece type. did they use the two piece all threw production and when did they go to one piece. its got the pencel tpy enjectors. any week points on the engin it burnd oil pretty good and started hard even at 80 degrees. getten ready to put the new pistons in then get started on the head bought all new valves
 
<H1>&nbsp;&nbsp; Who ever does your head work, be sure to have them follow the dimensions in the Service bulletin below. &nbsp;This will make the engine start a like you want it to.


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Only a guess here, but if the rings were all chrome, not cast iron, I would expect it has been gone through - but maybe only new rings fitted?

If it is burning oil particularly check the top ring side clearance (for the oil-burning explanation) and ovality of the bore. Chrome rings tend not to bed in so easily.
 
Make sure you follow the instructions in that bulletin. Get the one piece wrist pin bushings, new rod bolts, make sure that liner height is even and correct on all the sleeves. You will notice the date of that bulletin is after those models were dropped from production. In other words spend the $200-250.00 to get 12 seats installed in the head.
 
Along with valve height, BE SURE YOUR NEW PISTONS have the correct valve relief machined in them. Compare them to the originals. Some aftermarkets have .040"-.050" deep machining and should be @.025", as well as top rings lowered for lower compression. Even if you get the head done right, it won"t start like it should. So far the only piston manufacturers that I found to be right are Clevite, AGCO/ARROW engine, and if FP Diesel still has them available, they will be correct also.
 

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