1600 runs again

I did end up having the gears not meshed right. I lost about 3 gallons of oil into the rear end, and probably another gallon or so to the floor. I pulled the top off and spun the gear, nothing seemed damaged so I set it back down and spun the pto before putting in any bolts, and again after putting in the 2 long ones on either side of the pump.

I do n eed to take the top hydraulic cover off as the 3pt.linkage isn't right so the arms don't lift, but thats minor now that i gave it running again.

Donovan from wisconsin

Glad you got it going. I screwed up that linkage one time on the 1850 and had a heck of a time getting it right. I had to take the top off the 1550 and look at that to figure it out.

Then I may be asking questions as I don't have anything else to reference, although I do have a parts manual for that tractor. I'm looking at AGCO's parts book online right now to see what I need to pull that off. I think I counted 13 or 14 bolts/nuts to remove.

I'm just mad at myself for getting in a hurry and causing more work and expense. Not to mention it was hot as he!! today and the corner I have it there isn't any air movement.

I just drained the tranmission down and refilled it with the hydraulic/gear lube mix that I drained out to the right level, as it was atleast trans/hydraulic oil that we use instead of plain hydraulic oil. I'll run it a few years and change it out again once it gets close to 1000 hours on the tach.

I'm also close to finishing up another project, a Gehl 970 wagon that broke (in style) during 1st crop a week after the 1600 went down planting corn and so far the parts bill for that is just over $300. I think we're gonna get a new PTO sheild so that'll bring it up to over $350. Thankfully we had an extra PTO shaft off another wagon we scrapped out so we didn't have to buy another shaft, only new crosses, after it twisted the original and broke the yoke.

It's been a rough year. I'm just hoping we can get it all wrapped up before my next son hits the floor in late October...

Donovan from Wisconsin

I hate to tell you 2 this, BUT you do not need to unhook any of that linkage. Unbolt the servo valve and slide it over and it will lift right off.

Good to know for future reference I guess. Just hoping I don't have to do it again any time soon. I had an I&T manual so it was kinda vague on some of the details.

how many o rings are under the top cover? Looking at the pat's book online it only looks like one but that almost seems too simple...

Donovan from wisconsin

There's 12 o-rings on those 6 tubes. Is that what you're talking about?

What lifts right off? I had that linkage flip over on me somehow when I tipped the cylinder out to get the pump out. I didn't have it unhooked all the way. Probably should have,might not have screwed it up so bad. It was the valve body all the way up on top of the 1550 that I took off to see what that rats nest of linkage should look like.

I guess i'll figure that part out when I lift it off. O rings are easy enough to do I'd just like to have them ahead of time...

Donovan from Wisconsin

If it's like any I've taken off,some of the tubes will come out with the cover,some will stay in. Just pull them all the way out,should pull by hand. They're only a few inches long. Just 6 tubes with an o-ring on each end of each one.

You happen to know the size or number? I can get some from work if I know what size I need

You can take the servo valve off and not unhook any linkage. Then take the 3 point lift cylinderoff

If you at the parts book on line picture of that linkage, it is part reference # 14 that flips the wrong way! Good luck.