1655 oliver

Anonymous-0 · Jan 31, 2010

Hi I am rebuilding the engine from a 1655 oliver main reason why it had to come apart was cooliant leaking around the sleeves.Sure enough all the orings were eatten away.While cleaning up the block I noticed in one of the holes where the orings would seal is beginning to be eatten away .Is there any thing i can do to fix this Or just replace the orings and hope for the best

Thanks

Art Massing · Jan 31, 2010

1655,
Probably the best way to make the repair is to find a qualified machine shop, explain (take pictures) of the "O"ring problem and make sure they can make perminent (specilized welding) repair for a price you are willing to pay.
If so, strip the block, have it cleaned and inspected. If no irreparable issues are discovered, have them make the "O"ring chanel repair.

It"s possible that a less expensive and less time consuming (at least in the short term) repair would be to contact the Techical Department of Permatex and see if they have an epoxy product made for this type of repair. If you use this type of repair, follow the manufacture"s surface preparation instructions to the letter.

Good luck,

Art

Anonymous-0 · Jan 31, 2010

hey 1655, when i rebuilt mine (232 waukasha diesel) i had same, corosion in all six sleeve seats in block where orings seal. quite rough to the touch, i used a buffing wheel on air grinder to smooth them out,not back to say factory looking but enough so orings wouldnt tear when installing sleeves, i was sorta nervous of taking off to much and orings not sealing but had to clean them up some so as not tear rings on installation, no leaks i quess orings are able to take up difference, also very important to clean seat at top where sleeve shoulders land, should be able to put sleeve in hole (without orings)and then easily spin sleeve 360 around hole and not much above block, if more questions email. Note 1st engine i ever rebuilt, many more out there with more knowledge, you might want to see what they say.

Hope this helps; rocky

Anonymous-0 · Jan 31, 2010

O. K. I have been out of the machine shop game for almost 10 years, but there is a machine shop not too far from here that has done quite well repairing that problem on another very popular brand of engine that has the same problem. They just cut the counter bore out put a repair sleeve in it and then your good to go. If I remember right Hub City ( The PTO adapter people) made some repair sleeves to solve that problem for some of the popular engines. It depending on good of a job you want to do. How often do you check the PH of the collant in that engine? I used to do some machine work for a Deere dealer. I delivered or picked up some work and he said "What this" The coolant had put a pin hole in the sleeve. When the piston was above the hole the water would shoot out of the hole (pan was off) You are not the first one to have this problem.

old1850d · Jan 31, 2010

I have run into this quite often and have had very good luck using JB weld to build up these areas where thre is heavy pitting, it takes a little time and elbow grease but i think you will be happy with the results

Dick W. · Feb 1, 2010

Last year I had my supper 55 gas engine apart and found the same problem. I had my machine shop bore the block for new sleeves at the bottom bore and also clean and set the top bore for proper sleeve depth. It is expensive but probably better than new. The machanist should also have your new cylinder sleeves to check for proper fit. Fix it right the first time and then run it and forget it.

Anonymous-0 · Feb 1, 2010

I had a 1955 with that problem. The block was sent to a shop in Chapin, Ill and 1500 bucks later it was better than new. (OUCH!)

ollie gm · Feb 1, 2010

You have several good choices.

I have used JB weld several times with great success. Use a lot of cleanliness, o-rings don't have to have an exact circumference, just a smooth contact area.

Also, I have had a machine shop just recut the groove(s) to the next o-ring size. In my case, I bought a o-ring kit and made my own custom size. Cost was $95 hr. x 2 -- 1 hour setup and 1 hour cutting. Plus $30 for the o-ring kit.

Definitely buy some o-ring lube from your local bearing retailer.

1655 oliver

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