White 4-150 problems

We lost drive on the live shaft on the 4-150 the other day, i am guessing it stripped out up front somewhere. Is their only the one live shaft from the flywheel to the rear of the transmission where the drive shaft hooks too or is there two shafts? Years ago we had to replace a shift coupler in it and we split the tractor ahead of the pivot point and removed the live shaft from the rear to work on the the shift coupler. Seems to me someone said that there is a short shaft from the engine through the over under and then this long shaft to the rear of the transmission. If there are two shafts is there anyway to tell which shaft stripped? If its the front one we will have to pull the engine, if its the rear one i would guess we have to split it ahead of the pivot point again. The top drive shaft can be turned by hand when the engine is off and does not turn when the tractor is running. Thanks for any advice on this.

You must have stripped the coupler out on the back of the flywheel. They do wear out over time and the splines get pretty thin. I just changed one last fall. The shaft in the front is about 3 feet long and just looks like a 17 spline axle shaft with splines on both ends. The splines on the backwards side looked like brand new on mine. They fit nicely into the back of the 3 speed there is a coupler to hook to the back driveshaft. The coupler on the back of the flywheel is about $125 bucks and the new shaft is about $147 dollars both available through Worthington tractor parts. You will have trouble pulling the engine because the crossmemeber will be in the way of the oil pan. The driveshaft will try to come out with the engine. I put a couple of stainless hose clamps around the shaft and used them to pry the shaft back into the 3 speed so the engine would come out. It will clear the pan just enough to horse it out. In fact if the shaft is shot I would cut it in half with a torch or chop saw. That is what my dealer said they do. Makes the engine come right out. The bellhousing has threaded holes on each side to use pusher bolts to seperate the engine from the bellhousing. They need to have a tap run through them first though or the bolts will be very tight in the holes. I don't envy the amount of work you have ahead of you!

Thanks for the advice, we have never had the engine out since we got it back in the 90's. When we got it the guy had put a reman engine in it and live shaft, but wasnt sure if there was two or not. It has done a lot of heavy pto work over the years so i guess it was due for some trouble. Those prices arent as bad as i thought they might be, probably have to put in a clutch as long as we have it out. One other question, is it any easier to remove over under with the engine, or does the engine have to come out by itself? The over under has been getting some gear oil in it from the transmission, its not a real problem but if we are in that deep, maybe we should look at that too. Thanks again.

I've done them both way's and it is easier to pull the o/u with the motor .
also remember when you put the flywheel back on to use permatex on the bolts . The Cat book say's " use only no. 2 permatex " The bolt holes go in to the oil galley on the crank .

If we pull the engine and o/u as unit, is the coupling right at the o/u and transmission housing? How far will we have to slide the combo ahead before it will uncouple? Or does the rear long live shaft have to be pulled rearward to lift out the engine and o/u as unit? Thanks for any help.

You have to pull the rear shaft .

There are two PTO shafts between the flywheel and center pivot. The front one is from the flywheel to the quill shaft support where the O/U goes into the trans housing. It's hard to say where it's stripped at, most likely the flywheel.

If you want to pull the engine, remove the fuel tank and top cover on the differental housing. Slide the coupling back on the trans drive shaft, remove the lube fitting from the quill shaft support so it will slide out the front with the engine. There are four bolts holding that quill support to the O/U and seems like you need to take those out also, maybe so the engine will flex up as you pull it forward. The front shaft will need to go with the O/U and engine.

Hope that all makes sense! Good Luck, WB <><.

Thanks for all the info, might be a month or better until we get time to work on it, all the barns are filled with cattle and there is mud everywhere else, wish it wouldnt have went down now we could really use it on the feed wagon right now, thats life i guess. I will copy this info down, i have yet to see an I&T book for the 4-150, i guess it shouldn't be too bad once we get things opened up. Thanks again for all the information.

Larry it might be physically easier to lift the engine out with the 3 speed attached but its a whole heck of a lot more wrenching to get to that point. You have to pull the fuel tank, lift the transmission cover,unhook the hydraulic lines to the power steering and unhook the cab and tilt it up. I had mine off to change a leaking fuel tank about 6 years ago. I cleaned the whole tractor and painted it. Next I had to change the clutch but I still didn't pull the 3 speed and I had it right down to almost pulling it out. I figured if my 3 speed quits I will have to pull it. Flywheel is very heavy. I had mine turned for about $40 bucks. Clutch was from Worthingtons and I got a rebuilt pressure plate, new heavy duty clutch plate ( had one more pad), new throwout bearing, new pilot bearing, new pto shaft and new coupler. I also did the rear main seal on the 3208 when I had it out. That is a big job too. You need a special tool from the dealer to change it and the seal costs about $100 dollars if I remember right. Clutch plate was about $170, rebuilt pressure plate was about $140, throwout bearing was $40, pilot bearing was $15. Also check your bellhousing for cracks when you get it out. Mine was cracked and so was one I looked at in the junkyard. I found a good one and put it on. If you can get by with the 3 speed the way it is I would just run it. You can change one of the seals in the 3 speed when you pull the engine. When you remove the bellhousing the front of the 3 speed comes right off and you can service that assembly on your bench. You will have a shaft, gear, bearing, seal and front casting in your hand when it comes off. I put a new torrington bearing in and a new seal on the front assembly. That seal could be letting oil in the 3 speed. If oil goes up the middle of the 3 speed it can find its way past this seal and into the unit. It would be nice to have an A frame to pull the motor. I used a forklift and it worked ok. Motor is HEAVY! I just did my clutch this fall and this job is very fresh in my mind so if you have any questions please feel free to ask on here. Mine is working great now. My clutch and throwout bearing were shot! You will probably want to get a bunch of grade 8 bolts and replace them all and use red loctite on all the three speed bolts and bellhousing bolts. Whites have a habit of vibrating the bolts out and loosening up. 3208 has a lot of rpms and they shake apart. This is a pic of the area under the fuel tank where you have to lift the trans cover. Mine was a mess from leaky fuel tank. I cleaned it and painted and put on a new tank. Was a lot of work! Good luck.

Thanks for all the info, most guys get 80/hour for this information. I will copy all this down, and when we get the time and space to work on it i may check back with you. We only use for light work now, we have a couple versatiles for the tillage work. We have it dualled up and no chlorine or weights so it works good on the feed wagon in the spring because it floats right through the feedlots. Not sure which route we will go, maybe we will just pull the engine and put clutch, plate, bearing, seal and whatever is tore up on the drive. We don't have an A frame either, but we have two payloaders so it shouldnt be a problem. A few years back we lifted the engine and transmission out of one of dads A4t 1600's, that was a load. Thanks again for all the time and information to all of you.

One other thing I remember the dealer telling me is if you pull the motor out without pulling the three speed be as gentle as you can with cranking around on the three speed because there is a steel lube line in there that lubes the quill shaft and if you wiggle the three speed too much you could crack the fitting in there and then the tranny would be lacking lube pressure. That is why I think its a good idea to pull the motor forward about 4 inches and cut the input shaft with a torch or a sawzall so you can lift it straight up and out. The oil pan will be the biggest problem and you barely have enough room to take the motor out before it hits that friggin crossmember. Once you cut the shaft the motor will lift straight up and out. Then get the new shaft and put it in and slide it all the way back and tilt and set the 3208 back in. You will swear and push and pull on it but it will go back in, trust me. Clutch is just like a pickup truck only really heavy duty. Use the old pto shaft that you cut off for a clutch pilot hole alignment tool. If your rear main is leaking go to the dealer and bribe them for their 3208 rear seal installation tool. It is a collar with a pusher bolt and you bolt it to the back of the crank and push the new seal in. You have to cut the old seal off the crank. They have a hardened steel wear ring on the crank flange that is about .030 thousands thick. I cut it with a dremel tool and broke it off like a sleeve. New one goes on pretty good with the installation tool. If I can think of any more formalities I will post them on here. LOT of wrenching but it goes ok. Good luck.

I have a 4-270 with top drive shaft that will turn when not running and dosn't turn when running. I think it runs the hyd. pump since the tractor won't move or steer. dose anyone have a picture of this gear set up or know if I have to pull the engine to get at this shaft. maby it will come out the back , I hope but think probubly not. Any help would be greatly apreciated
Lloyd