Mounting a front tire

What is the correct procedure dealing with the inner tube on a front rim. Baby powder or the dry soap lube?

Tire shop does all of mine.

Don't need anything. Just put them together.

On fronts I don't use anything.
On rears I use dish soap to help slide the tire onto the rim but don't use anything on the tube.

You do not actually need anything but a bit of lubricant will make the job a bit easier.

I use tire talc and rim grease on all of my farm tires. The talc allows the tube to move easier inside the tire and the rim grease prevents bead rust allowing much easier dismounting 10-15 years from now.

I buy both from Gemplers.

Dean

...... and the rim grease prevents bead rust allowing much easier dismounting 10-15 years from now......

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If my tractor / off road rim has rust I have usually used bearing grease with no ill effects to the tire . I will look into the Gemplers grease for highway use trailers .

My brother in law helped me fix a rear flat about 10 years ago . We used baby powder . It smelled great and did not cause a problem . I don't know if it helped though , but that was only one time .

I have my Fathers old manual tire changer and have changed 100's of tires in my lifetime . I have cars and trucks that have not run in 20+ years but keep the tires up so I can move them to mow , or pull them to the shop , etc . Most of those tires have grease and after decades of sitting I have found no harm has been done .

It will ruin a tractor tire by letting it sit on a flat , it will get big cracks on the folded area . A dry rotted tractor tire will run a lifetime on a seldom used tractor / farm truck unless it has deep cracks .

(quoted from post at 07:14:06 01/21/17) You do not actually need anything but a bit of lubricant will make the job a bit easier.

I use tire talc and rim grease on all of my farm tires. The talc allows the tube to move easier inside the tire and the rim grease prevents bead rust allowing much easier dismounting 10-15 years from now.

I buy both from Gemplers.

Dean

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Haven't seen the Johnson & Johnsons legal law suit commercials on TV?

That talc will cause your tractor to develop cancer. :wink:

I grew up having to repair farm tires, though no rear tractor tires. After breaking the bead off the rim we had tire irons, one used to hold the bead as it was pried out of the rim and a "spoon" iron to work the bead around the rim. We used soap on the bead and/or rim. After breaking both beads off the rim into the wheel center, start on the side with the valve stem. While stepping on the tire opposite of the valve stem (allows tire bead to drop into the center), carefully pry the the bead by the stem over the rim. Then using the spoon, work to where you had stepped on it. Remove the tube before proceeding to take the tire off of the front of the rim.
Perform your tube repair or replacement.
When mounting your tire, basically reverse the process.
Start the tire bead on the front of the rim. I use a rubber mallet to pound it on. As the first bead slides over the rim, step on the area to push the bead down into the center of the wheel.
Install the tube and position the valve stem in the hole. If you have a stem holding tool, it helps prevent the stem from dropping back into the wheel while working the second bead into the rim. If not tool at least put a cap on the stem OR a valve stem extension. Start the bead onto the rim OPPOSITE of the stem. If you start at the stem you will bind and/or pull the stem with possible damage. Once you start the bead, again step on that area and work your way up to the valve.
When tire is mounted, slide it back and forth a bit to help get any wrinkles out of the tube and to center the valve.
Pump the tire up and let the air out. This is to address any wrinkles still in the tube. Pump to desired pressure.