[b:40bc644b7e]1948 Ford 8N. 6V. Front-Mount.[/b:40bc644b7e]
So I'm getting very weak spark and I've isolated the problem to somewhere in the distributor/coil area.
I filed and cleaned the points and set the gap. I'm quite inexperienced with filing/cleaning but I know the gap is right.
I verified timing was correct ([i:40bc644b7e]with that handy tool someone sells, I think on here[/i:40bc644b7e]).
I cleaned up the contacts on the cap and rotor with a sandpaper. It was dirty but not too wild - only about a year of use.
I have the original coil and a new coil I put on about a year ago. Should I be testing that next? I saw a post where Dell explained how to.
I did some continuity tests on the cap and rotor. This could get dicey as I don't know the correct terminology... There is the area that the spark plug wires plug into on the cap. I tested continuity from the outside to inside ([i:40bc644b7e]can't imagine it would break[/i:40bc644b7e]) and it's good on all 4. I tested the rotor to make sure there was continuity from the copper tip that rotates to the springy tab thing ([i:40bc644b7e]again unlikely to break[/i:40bc644b7e]) and it was good.
I put everything together besides the coil. I tested continuity from the part on the cap that touches the coil to the copper part on the rotor that spins around. There is continuity. However, if I test continuity from the part on the cap that touches the coil to the actual socket the spark plug wire goes in, nothing. Is this normal, does spark jump that distance? I suspect it is not and there should be continuity. Does it mean the copper is worn down and not contacting and that is the ([i:40bc644b7e]or one of the[/i:40bc644b7e]) problems?
Where do I go from here? I'm really thinking about doing the unthinkable and getting Electronic Ignition but there's no turning back form that! I'd still have a Cap and Rotor though, wouldn't I?
So I'm getting very weak spark and I've isolated the problem to somewhere in the distributor/coil area.
I filed and cleaned the points and set the gap. I'm quite inexperienced with filing/cleaning but I know the gap is right.
I verified timing was correct ([i:40bc644b7e]with that handy tool someone sells, I think on here[/i:40bc644b7e]).
I cleaned up the contacts on the cap and rotor with a sandpaper. It was dirty but not too wild - only about a year of use.
I have the original coil and a new coil I put on about a year ago. Should I be testing that next? I saw a post where Dell explained how to.
I did some continuity tests on the cap and rotor. This could get dicey as I don't know the correct terminology... There is the area that the spark plug wires plug into on the cap. I tested continuity from the outside to inside ([i:40bc644b7e]can't imagine it would break[/i:40bc644b7e]) and it's good on all 4. I tested the rotor to make sure there was continuity from the copper tip that rotates to the springy tab thing ([i:40bc644b7e]again unlikely to break[/i:40bc644b7e]) and it was good.
I put everything together besides the coil. I tested continuity from the part on the cap that touches the coil to the copper part on the rotor that spins around. There is continuity. However, if I test continuity from the part on the cap that touches the coil to the actual socket the spark plug wire goes in, nothing. Is this normal, does spark jump that distance? I suspect it is not and there should be continuity. Does it mean the copper is worn down and not contacting and that is the ([i:40bc644b7e]or one of the[/i:40bc644b7e]) problems?
Where do I go from here? I'm really thinking about doing the unthinkable and getting Electronic Ignition but there's no turning back form that! I'd still have a Cap and Rotor though, wouldn't I?