pixer

Member
Got around try and polarize generator are the regulators different early 8hs? Was going to polarize on battery and armature as shown but my vr
is diff. Not next to each other. Mine has wire on outermost bolt holding vr on and at least one wire on the inner side I will have to take breather
off to see if there is another wire. I have three wires on generator ground and field on gen. Barrel marked ground and field and third wire off
back of gen..is the set up for an internally grounded gen.? If so do polarize as described by ploughman for internal ground? If it is it shows
running wire from batt. Side of solenoid to the field on the gen.barrel. Also shows do one ting wire from field post on gen.to voltage reg. Before
touching wire from battery to generator field post . Have I got this right?
 
All 8N's left the factory with "A circuit" generators. to polarize, momentarily connect the ungrounded battery terminal to the "A"/"ARM"/"GEN" terminal on the generator.

This can be accomplished in many different ways, they all work the same, and leave the "F"/"FIELD" terminal alone.
 
Just do it as Bob said.

But, FYI, 8N generators have externally grounded fields. You probably have an original 8N vr, which has terminals as shown here, unlike replacement units with all 3 terminals on one side.
 
Pixer-
It sounds like you may still have the original AUTO-LITE voltage regulator. If so, the procedure is the same to polarize. Arc spark with a jumper wire from the 'B' (BAT) terminal on lower right side to the 'A' (ARM) terminal on top right as shown in my photos below. DO NOT TOUCH THE 'F' (FIELD) TERMINAL on the upper left as shown in top photo. The terminal on the bottom is the ground terminal. Have a wiring schematic handy -there's one in the original Operator's Manual as well as the I&T F04 Manual so you can trace the wires first. DO NOT judge by whatever is currently wired as it may be wrong. Colors don't matter, electrons do. The ARMATURE or GEN wire should feed thru your ammeter. The terminals are marked but often corrosion, dirt, and grease often prevent them to be visible. Hope this helps you...

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

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(quoted from post at 20:02:09 01/17/17) Pixer-
It sounds like you may still have the original AUTO-LITE voltage regulator. If so, the procedure is the same to polarize. Arc spark with a jumper wire from the 'B' (BAT) terminal on lower right side to the 'A' (ARM) terminal on top right as shown in my photos below. DO NOT TOUCH THE 'F' (FIELD) TERMINAL on the upper left as shown in top photo. The terminal on the bottom is the ground terminal. Have a wiring schematic handy -there's one in the original Operator's Manual as well as the I&T F04 Manual so you can trace the wires first. DO NOT judge by whatever is currently wired as it may be wrong. Colors don't matter, electrons do. The ARMATURE or GEN wire should feed thru your ammeter. The terminals are marked but often corrosion, dirt, and grease often prevent them to be visible. Hope this helps you...

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

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The ARMATURE or GEN wire should feed thru your ammeter.
Nope. See diagram.
 
Th anks guys specially plowma I do have the original if ido polarize I'll have to take air filter off. Don't even know if it's necessary thought it would charge better if I did it
 
"if ido polarize I'll have to take air filter off."

We already told you you can make the connection to polarize the generator between the ungrounded battery post and the generator, DUNNO how the air cleaner would get in the way of that?





"Don't even know if it's necessary thought it would charge better if I did it"

If the generator is actually charging at all it doesn't need polarizing, and while polarizing ain't gonna hurt, it will not make an already charging generator charge better.
 
If ammeter shows a + charge when engine is running, everything is working properly. If no charge condition is visible on ammeter, you could have a bad VR. Why do you think you need it to 'charge better'? You can take all of your components to your trusty local starter/alternator guy and he will bench test them UNDER LOAD and tell you if anything is bad. Take the generator, battery, ammeter, and voltage regulator to him for a professional evaluation. How ol d is your battery? When was the last time you rebuilt the generator? When did you last put a tiny drop of oil in the generator lube door on the back? Don't overfill; only put a drop or two. The early 8N generator was a 3-wire/3-brush type. Loose belt tension will cause no or faulty generator charging. When tractor fires up, you should see a slight, positive side on gauge charge, around 7 amps. When you flick on your headlights, the ammeter should show a discharge or a zero charge. Early 8N AUTO-LITE voltage regulators are pretty robust. I have three, two came from working 8Ns -a 48 and a 49, and also a NOS VR still in original box, and none are bad -they all check out fine. But, they do go bad at some point and there's really no way to reconstitute them. View JMOR's Wiring Pictograms, get a copy of the F-04 Manual, an MPC (Master Parts Catalog, 39-53) and a early 8N Operator's manual so you have all the correct information at hand.

Tim
 
Yep, my bad. I was getting cornfused with two different guys asking two different questions. The ARM wire from the generator should feed to the VR terminal. The ammeter wire feeds from the resistor block, thru ammeter loop, and then to the starter solenoid. Thanks for catching my error.

Tim
 
OK -as stated, if generator is working now, and it shows a positive charge when running, it doesn't need to be 'polarized' again so save yourself the time and hassle. Does your ammeter show a charge when at idle? If not, your gauge could be bad, your VR could be bad, and/or your generator may be bad. Generator can be rebuilt, VR and ammeter can be bought new as aftermarket types. the newer ammeters use two screw terminals instead of the old loop-style induction gauge so simply cut the (original) big yellow wire and attach to either side of the gauge. If gauge shows a negative needle movement, reverse the wires on screw terminals. It sounds like you may have some issues going on that would lead you to believe you have a weak charging system so feel free to expand on this.

[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​
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