Cracked started gear

Long story short, the gear that engages the flywheel on the starter cracked in half. First off, can just that gear be replaced or do I need a whole new starter? Secondly, half of the gear fell down in the bellhousing. How do I fish this out?

12v, right?

The starter drive gear, commonly called the Bendix by us FOG's can be easily replaced. Get a new gear here or from nnalert's.

Every 8N I've ever split has Bendix parts in the bell housing. Chances are pretty good it won't be a problem because the parts are usually too small to jam between the flywheel and bell housing.

But.....if it is a problem, it will be a big one as in cracking the bell housing. Get one of those magnets on a flexible stick & start fishing. Or, let it be & take your chances.

The starter has 3 major exterior components; front plate, barrel & rear plate. The 2 bolts that hold the starter on to the bell housing go through all three components & hold it all together. To remove the starter, unscrew the bolts out of the block & put a nut on one of them. Otherwise, the starter comes apart. Not fatal, but not fun either. (tip # 36 at the link below) Then, loosen the two bolts holding the oil filter canister to the block, (it does not need to be removed) remove the dipstick, and keep the starter close to the block while pushing the front of it down and lifting the back up. Sometimes you have to remove the drain petcock as well. The bendix is behind the flywheel; your job is to get it over the flywheel.

Caution: while the starter is off, resist the temptation to screw with the bendix. If you extend the bendix, and it is not the OEM bendix w/ the big spring, you will have a hard time getting the starter installed.

To install the starter, keep it close to the block while pulling the front of it up and pushing the bendix back into the hole. The bendix has to go behind the flywheel; your job is to get it over the flywheel.

Lastly, while the starter is off, polish the block & all starter mating surfaces w/ sandpaper to insure a good electrical ground. First, clean the mating area between the barrel and rear plate. Then, clean the mating surfaces where the aluminum rear plate meets the bell housing. The starter's ground circuit is not only through the two long bolts but from the barrel to the rear plate & then to the bell housing as well.
75 Tips

Thanks Bruce for the quick reply. I was able to remove the starter before I wrote my initial post and is how I know the bendix is split and half inside the bellhousing. Unfortunately I did get the starter in three pieces. Looks like I need to align brushes to get the front cover to fit back on.

Is changing the bendix something I can do myself or done at a shop?

And yes it's 12V

You can get a usb endoscope for your computer or smart phone off of ebay for less than $10, might be a good tool to help with your fishing job.

(quoted from post at 15:45:14 01/16/17) You can get a usb endoscope for your computer or smart phone off of ebay for less than $10, might be a good tool to help with your fishing job.

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Thanks Dan. I ordered one for work. I may have to bring it home tomorrow to work on this G job.

had this happen a few times myself and got tired of the junk factory fall apart starters so i replaced it with one of the high torque mini starters. well worth the 199

You can replace the Bendix yourself. Press the washer at the end of the drive against the jaws of a vise set to the appropriate opening and PUSH, moving the washer towards the spring, exposing the pin hole so the pin can be removed to allow the old drive to be pulled off of the starter, then do the same thing with the new dive, to reinstall the pin.

Re the brushes, there are plenty of ways to put the starter back together. Some folks use alligator clips, toothpicks or dental floss to hold the brushes back. Others remove the metal band and paper gasket, then put the starter back together. Pull the brushes up thru the holes that the band was covering. Use long nose pliers to pull the brush springs up. Move each one to the right and let them rest on the brush holder. Put each brush into the holder. Pull up each spring and place it on each brush. Put the gasket and metal band back on.
75 Tips

"12v, right?"

Now, how did we know that, Bruce?

Dean

(quoted from post at 17:24:02 01/16/17)
Thanks Bruce for the quick reply. I was able to remove the starter before I wrote my initial post and is how I know the bendix is split and half inside the bellhousing. Unfortunately I did get the starter in three pieces. Looks like I need to align brushes to get the front cover to fit back on.

Is changing the bendix something I can do myself or done at a shop?

Click to expand...

.
Click the link below

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTmxlDXL8hc

Thanks Ken. Doesn't he put the Bendix on backwards at the end of the video?

(quoted from post at 08:39:21 01/17/17) Thanks Ken. Doesn't he put the Bendix on backwards at the end of the video?

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hat is not a starter for a 8N.

""Long story short, the gear that engages the flywheel on the starter cracked in half.""
This happens frequently with the "newer replacement drives" what we call a bendix. Especially if the long shaft is slightly bent from a previous drive failure.
Find the old style (even a used one) and solve your newer replacement drives problems.

(quoted from post at 18:18:04 01/16/17) You can replace the Bendix yourself. Press the washer at the end of the drive against the jaws of a vise set to the appropriate opening and PUSH, moving the washer towards the spring, exposing the pin hole so the pin can be removed to allow the old drive to be pulled off of the starter, then do the same thing with the new dive, to reinstall the pin.

Re the brushes, there are plenty of ways to put the starter back together. Some folks use alligator clips, toothpicks or dental floss to hold the brushes back. Others remove the metal band and paper gasket, then put the starter back together. Pull the brushes up thru the holes that the band was covering. Use long nose pliers to pull the brush springs up. Move each one to the right and let them rest on the brush holder. Put each brush into the holder. Pull up each spring and place it on each brush. Put the gasket and metal band back on.
75 Tips

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Bruce,
I got the starter back together and have put nuts on the long bolts to keep it that way.

In doing so, I noticed the cover closest to the bendix is cracked at the bronze bushing and the casting in that same area. Is this something that can be replaced as well or am I at the point of looking for a new starter?

Also I tried to compress the bendix to get the retaining pin out and with my entire 190 lb body weight, I could not compress the bendix to expose the entire pin. What am I doing wrong?

I noticed the cover closest to the bendix is cracked at the bronze bushing and the casting in that same area.

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I've got a starter out here I kept for parts. I'll have to verify the cover is good, but if it is you can have it. No charge.

(quoted from post at 15:48:40 01/20/17)

I noticed the cover closest to the bendix is cracked at the bronze bushing and the casting in that same area.

Click to expand...

I've got a starter out here I kept for parts. I'll have to verify the cover is good, but if it is you can have it. No charge.

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Thanks Royse. Do you think the starter is worth saving or between the broken bendix and cracked cover that I've all but let the smoke out?

(quoted from post at 18:52:40 01/20/17)

(quoted from post at 15:48:40 01/20/17)

I noticed the cover closest to the bendix is cracked at the bronze bushing and the casting in that same area.

Click to expand...

I've got a starter out here I kept for parts. I'll have to verify the cover is good, but if it is you can have it. No charge.

Click to expand...

Thanks Royse. Do you think the starter is worth saving or between the broken bendix and cracked cover that I've all but let the smoke out?

Click to expand...

If it's original I'd rebuild it or have it rebuilt.
Aftermarket part quality is not always the best.

It is not an origional. It is maybe a year or two old.

When it's light out I'll see if I have a good starter out here.
I know I do for a 9N/2N but maybe not for an 8N. It is an 8N, right?

Yes a 52 8n. I really appreciate it but work too hard to find it. I'm leaning towards a new starter. I'll check to see if the shaft itself is bent.

Don't have an 8N starter whole. I do have the end cap.

That was awfully nice of you to look. I don't want it for nothing. What do you want for it plus shipping?

If you want it as pictured, armature, cover, bendix, et al
it will fit in a flat rate box. So it might cost $18 total.
The commutator is very well worn, but usable.
If I take it apart it might cost more! Just kidding.
Always happy to help a fellow tractor guy get there's running.

Let me know how you want the money. I'm more than greatful and if 18 isn't enough for shipping, the parts and your time, please let me know.

If you'd like to email me your address I'll get it boxed up.

RoyseTractors at gmail.com

So in preperation for the parts Royse was so kind to find, I was able to get the bexdix off the starter tonight. The shaft looked bent so I decided to bench test the starter to see if I could see runout on the shaft while it turned. I hooked a pair of jumper cables from the battery to the starter, grounded to the case and put the hot lead on the large pole of the solenoid. I then jumpered this to the key 12v pole and got nothing. I unhooked everything and tried to turn that shaft by hand. It felt like it was hanging up in a certain spot. Is this normal from the magnets or should it be smooth the entire time? I shorted out the jumper cables to make sure I had power in them, of course just a tap and had good sparks. I then tried to make sure I had good ground connection to the case. Still nothing. Not even a click from the solenoid. Does this mean I should look for a whole new starter?

Doesn't sound right....what does this mean? " I then jumpered this to the key 12v pole and got nothing"

Just connect jumper cables directly from battery posts to starter!