OT Other tractors to look for...

Hi all. I have a small 9 acre piece of property where I just moved to over the summer.

This fall I picked up a '52 8N. This is my first "Tractor" and I love it. That being said, I can tell that it is limited in what it can do and pull.

The previous owner left a 2 gang set of drag discs and I used these to open up a garden for next year. When the discs were not digging in very deep, I could pull them in 3rd gear. As they worked the ground up, I progressively had to move down to 1st gear to pull these discs.

I don't want to hurt my N but don't want to get rid of it either (kind of fond of her now). I don't have the money for a new compact utility tractor but would be interested in something with a little more power and maybe a loader.

What would your recommendations for something with live hydraulics, power steering and maybe a loader?

I've been told to stay away from the older diesels. Is this true? What about 4x4? I've been told that it is almost needed with a loader?
 
Welcome to 8N ownership! I, too, started a love affair that I don't think I can get out of!

I currently own one 9N and four 8Ns. I use them for plowing and bush-hogging. I rarely use any gear but first. I've heard that the 600 series are great for additional power. I'm considering finding out for myself.
 
(quoted from post at 13:37:58 01/11/17) Hi all. I have a small 9 acre piece of property where I just moved to over the summer.

This fall I picked up a '52 8N. This is my first "Tractor" and I love it. That being said, I can tell that it is limited in what it can do and pull.

The previous owner left a 2 gang set of drag discs and I used these to open up a garden for next year. When the discs were not digging in very deep, I could pull them in 3rd gear. As they worked the ground up, I progressively had to move down to 1st gear to pull these discs.

I don't want to hurt my N but don't want to get rid of it either (kind of fond of her now). I don't have the money for a new compact utility tractor but would be interested in something with a little more power and maybe a loader.

What would your recommendations for something with live hydraulics, power steering and maybe a loader?

I've been told to stay away from the older diesels. Is this true? What about 4x4? I've been told that it is almost needed with a loader?

If you can't afford/justify new there are still plenty of very nice used compact and small utility tractors on the market. Personally, if you need a loader tractor I would suggest you look for a mid to late 90's or newer 4WD diesel with hydrostatic transmission They offer a lot of conveniences like quick attach loaders that you won't find on older machines and an HST has it all over gear drive for loader work. You may also find that a true compact tractor is a little too small for your needs and I would suggest something a little larger - something in the 30-40 HP and up range.

There are a lot of older and larger 2WD gas engine machines at around the same or perhaps lower price. Wouldn't be my first choice for a number of reasons but they offer a lot of bang for the buck.

Whatever you do get some test drive seat time on machines that you think are probably out of your price range. Run a new HST loader through some simulated loader work and then do the same with a mid 70's gear drive tractor. That way you will get a better appreciation of what you may be giving up with an older and less featured machine. You may decide you need to spend a bit more than you really wanted....

TOH

PS> I am an orange tractor man but there are plenty of other good tractors - just a different color. You will pay a premium for the green ones.....
 
1st gear seems too slow for doing much. I use it when bush hogging especially new territory where weeds are too high to see obstructions, but always survey the area good first anyway. I use 2nd gear mostly -plowing; discing; snow removal/back bladng; et al. With my Dearborn Disc harrow, I work up gardens and food plots in 2nd, then switch to 3rd once the soil is uncovered. I tie cinder blocks on for added weight to help it penetrate deeper. I agree a newer model with FEL and HST is the way to go but I'd hang on to the 8N as well. The Kubota brand is pretty decent and my local dealer always has plenty of new and used in supply. My neighbor bought a M-F 1010 and found out he couldn't pull a 2-bottom plow. The old Fords are good at stuff like that. A newer model with bucket is a great asset for utility chores as well as snow removal. May need to check category of hitch too so old implements will work.

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 

So in breaking new ground and getting progressively deeper with your disc you have to go to 1st gear..., and this is a problem because_______? Having moved up to an 8N from a Merry Tiller in the 90's, I am very thankful for 1st gear and generally use it for everything except mowing (2nd). There are worlds of work these old tractors can do and do so reliably and with small amounts of fuel. Consider using whatever you would spend on a newer, higher HP, and more gadget-happy tractor with implements. Use the 8N slowly and carefully, and learn all its amazing properties. Folks farmed big areas with these machines; they can do a lot of work with the right implement and proper use. Take good care of it and it will take care of you.
 
(quoted from post at 13:51:34 01/11/17)
So in breaking new ground and getting progressively deeper with your disc you have to go to 1st gear..., and this is a problem because_______? Having moved up to an 8N from a Merry Tiller in the 90's, I am very thankful for 1st gear and generally use it for everything except mowing (2nd). There are worlds of work these old tractors can do and do so reliably and with small amounts of fuel. Consider using whatever you would spend on a newer, higher HP, and more gadget-happy tractor with implements. Use the 8N slowly and carefully, and learn all its amazing properties. Folks farmed big areas with these machines; they can do a lot of work with the right implement and proper use. Take good care of it and it will take care of you.

Thanks everyone for the replies. My concern with discing in first gear is not a time or speed issue. I just don't want to work my N too hard. I understand that newer tractors have more power but also, because of most likely a lighter chassis, may not be able to pull as much as an older tractor. I don't want to end up with 10 tractors that are the best at one thing and that is the only thing I use it for, but I would also not mind having a second tractor with more ability than the N has. I was thinking of something in the 30-40HP range with 4x4 and a loader.
If I have to disc in first gear or move the angle of the discs to be less sever, I am OK with that, as long as I'm not hurting my little N.
 
" I was thinking of something in the 30-40HP range with 4x4 and a loader. "

Don't forget power steering. I have several N's and a 601. The Ns are great for working up the soil in my garden. I use the
601 for mowing. I have a 1999 Kubota for loader work. The Kubota doesn't have draft control and isn't suited for plowing. The
Ns were designed for plowing, but I would avoid one with a loader.
 
(quoted from post at 17:45:11 01/11/17) " I was thinking of something in the 30-40HP range with 4x4 and a loader. "

Don't forget power steering. I have several N's and a 601. The Ns are great for working up the soil in my garden. I use the
601 for mowing. I have a 1999 Kubota for loader work. The Kubota doesn't have draft control and isn't suited for plowing. The
Ns were designed for plowing, but I would avoid one with a loader.

The purpose of draft control when plowing is to maintain traction when the draft from the plow gets heavy. When the draft gets too heavy for the tractor the lift automatically raise the plow to reduce the draft. That allowed a little 8N to pull a 2 bottom plow in heavy soil without losing traction. I plow my garden with my 19 HP Kubota and a 14" one bottom. Just keep my hand on the lift control - aka poor man's draft control. Put enough horsepower and weight to work and you can pull a 2 bottom plow just fine with position control and both hands on the wheel. Keep in mind - the guy in the video is selling plows not Kubota tractors ;-)

[u:fdfa9c4bc6]Kubota "compact tractor" pulling a 2 x 12[/u:fdfa9c4bc6]
 
We started farming 40 acres during the war with a 1944 9N had a 2 bottom plow and 6 foot
disc and 2 row cult JD 290 planter woods bros 1 row picker. Then got a McCormick Deering
10-20 for the heavy work that set up worked fine still have all the equipment. I think the
same should work for your set up
 

I had the same desire, and after a brief affair with an AC 190, I ended up buying another 8N!

2015_two8Ns.jpg


es
 
First of all, don't worry about hurting your
tractor. It will either run out of power -
or traction, before you damage anything.
I suppose if you filled the rear tires AND
add heavy wheel weights and then started ram
rodding the thing you could break something
but you would almost have to try to break it
before you would.
That said, if you want to stick with a small
Ford look for a 3000.
Hold out for one with the options you want
as not all of them were fully optioned.
Look for one with an 8 speed transmission
with live PTO. Get one with power steering
and differential lock.
They heve 3 cylinder engines - either gas or
diesel. All of them have live hydraulics.
They are rated at 37/38 horsepower, 50% more
than an N. About 7" longer wheelbase and
1000 lbs heavier.
They are amazingly reliable, easy to get
parts for, not difficult to work on and
rather familial to someone who's owned an N.
They are also not too expensive. $4000
should get you a good unit that doesn't need
to have much beyond some tweaking done to
it.
I have owned, worked and worked on a bunch
of Ns, Hundred Series and Thousand Series
tractors up to 50 hp.
Of them all I think the 3 cyl Thousands are
the Best. The photo is my great friend Dick
mowing with my 3000 diesel and 6' Bush Hog.
I've had this tractor for about 15 years
now. It is way more tractor than an 8N. As
the saying goes, they will have to pry it
from my cold, dead fingers.
a248041.jpg
 
A 2000 or 3000 Ford with a loader would be a handy tractor to add to your collection,be sure to get live power and power steering if you have a loader,(not all of them had live power).The 3 cyl. series would
be my choice.
 
I know I am going to get knocked around a bit here for saying this, but I can take it,

About the highest cost tractor for what you get hp wise, is a small John Deere, Ford, or Ferguson add a loader and the price shoots the moon,
good tractors so in no way running them down , just popular tractors

Just thinking outside of the box here, Might look at other brands of smaller tractors with loaders: example international 454 or 554, Oliver, case,
AC 5060
I may have some of these model numbers wrong, good tractors, but may not hold there resale a high as the ones I mentioned earlier
However, always remember no matter what model you buy, you will need replacement parts at some time if there are no dealers or you can not
order the parts then that might be a deal breaker no matter the price,

Just worth a look see, winter is always the best time to look for farm equipment, unless it's a John Deere they are always top dollar
 
I have an 8N and a Ferguson to-20. Both are great tractors. But for heavy work, I picked up a FORD 1801 with loader and hoe for
$400. Clutch was out, running on three of four cylinders, but with some TLC I couldn't live with out it.

As for disking, and other items, A 8N will do you well IF you are not in a hurry. Take off some disks, or drop the extra gang, or
reduce the angle the gangs are set at. As for the other tasks, you can get a rear scoop, make a carryall, etc. We had the 8N,
Farmall f-12, and a cub lowboy on the farm for many years (like 25) before I found the old 1801.
 
(quoted from post at 22:27:32 01/11/17) I know I am going to get knocked around a bit here for saying this, but I can take it,

About the highest cost tractor for what you get hp wise, is a small John Deere, Ford, or Ferguson add a loader and the price shoots the moon,
good tractors so in no way running them down , just popular tractors

Just thinking outside of the box here, Might look at other brands of smaller tractors with loaders: example international 454 or 554, Oliver, case,
AC 5060

It's only out of the box thinking on a Ford forum and I couldn't agree more. There are lots of good used diesel tractors in the sub 10K price range. Here is one that is currently selling locally for $5k and it's my favorite color :roll: A 3 cylinder diesel made by Fiat and sold as their 50 PTO horsepower, independent PTO Model 540. It was rebadged and sold by AC as their 5050. A little too old for my taste but still a good beefy and reliable late 70's to early 80's clean looking hunk of iron with loader at a very comfortable price point. Just one of many possibilities.

[u:cba18e75f7]AC 5050 with loader[/u:cba18e75f7]

TOH

00s0s_kqEQq4HZfze_600x450.jpg
 
Just curious, UD: He's taking a half swath. Is it power limited?

I would expect the cutter to pull hard in that grass.

Myself, I would gear down and take a full swath if power limited.

Dean
 
What to buy when you upgrade depends upon what you plan to do with it and how much you plan to spend.

You can buy more modern features and considerably more HP for $5,000+. Add another $1,000 - $1,500 for a fully hydraulic loader, and probably another $2,000+ for FWA.

I would not buy a tractor with a FEL without FWA, but I'm spoiled, and you can do lots of work with a FEL tractor without FWA if it is set up correctly and operated properly.

FWIW, most older AG tractors with HP ratings in the 70 - 100+ range will be considerably less expensive than will most modern utility tractors with FWA.

Research parts availability and cost before buying. The low cost and ready availability of parts for your 8N will spoil you, and there are orphans out there for which parts are very expensive or even unavailable.

I'm partial to Kubota for primary workers and Ford for secondary workers and hobby machines.

Post back after you have better defined usage and cost guidelines and you will get more specific information.

Dean
 
I could have wrote this reply but not as well. I agree and love my Kubota. My favorite Ford was an 861 and I had a bunch.
 
"I'm partial to Kubota for primary workers and Ford for secondary workers and hobby machines."

My feelings also.
 
The 3000 4000 and 5000 series fords provide a lot of tractor for the money.

You will pay for FWD, it is nice but not necessary if the tractor is ballasted adequately.
 

Thanks for all the replies guys. I have a co-worker that I talked to initially when I was looking for a tractor and he told me I'd be stupid if I got a tractor without a FEL and without FWA. Obviously if money was no object, I would have bought a new 40+ HP utility tractor, but between buying the house and student loans, I couldn't justify adding that kind of a payment for something that would sit in the barn more than being used. I am beyond happy that I got my 8N.

Eventually I would like to be able to move some dirt around as I have some spots that collect water. I suppose I could use my back blade but I'm just getting used to working a tractor and don't want to make an existing problem worse.
 
(quoted from post at 15:12:55 01/12/17)
Thanks for all the replies guys. I have a co-worker that I talked to initially when I was looking for a tractor and he told me I'd be stupid if I got a tractor without a FEL and without FWA. Obviously if money was no object, I would have bought a new 40+ HP utility tractor, but between buying the house and student loans, I couldn't justify adding that kind of a payment for something that would sit in the barn more than being used. I am beyond happy that I got my 8N.

Eventually I would like to be able to move some dirt around as I have some spots that collect water. I suppose I could use my back blade but I'm just getting used to working a tractor and don't want to make an existing problem worse.

If you can find at least $5K-$7K you can add a second machine that's a lot more tractor than you currently have to your stable. If you can't I'd suggest you simply stick with the one tractor you have until you can.

You have been given lots of good advice about brands and sizes. Mull on it and as I said earlier - before doing anything educate yourself with some hands on experience. You can walk into any tractor dealership and tell them you are interested in their machines and would like to look them over. Tell them you don't know anything about tractors and are trying to get an education. They will immediately shower you with information and tell you how their machines are better than their competitors. Tell them you would like to test drive one or two different models to see how all that good stuff it works. They will have you up and about on a demo ride so fast it will make your head spin. The same is true of used machines although private sellers are less "friendly" if they suspect you are just a tire kicker ;-) You are under no obligation to buy anything from anybody and you can walk away with nothing more than a polite "Thanks - I'll think about it". You may even find the shopping experience fun ;-) I just used that same strategy to buy my wife a new car. I really didn't know anything about the current offerings so I visited a lot of different dealers and drove a slew of different makes and models with no intention of buying any of them. Carmax was a great place to comparison shop. They had a large selection of different models and the sales guys are on hourly salary and were perfectly happy to ride around all day with me ;-) I drove some high end cars I knew I would never buy just because I wanted the experience. I learned a lot in the process and I got real personal hands on feel for the differences - not a bunch of subjective recommendations from an online forum :roll:

TOH
 
Dick likes to mow with that rig :)
That is about a 2 acre field that I mow once a year for brush control.
I usually set the mower height about 6" and do it in an hour or two.
When Dick does it he sets the mower lower and it usually takes him about 3 hours but it all gets chopped at least a couple of times..
I don't care how he does it as long as he's enjoying himself and it gets done.
Yes, that kind of grass/weeds does cut hard as it's so thick. Tractor has it's tongue hanging out most of the time while mowing that field.
 
these ford scoops work great, I have used this one for years
a ford scoop is a good model and they made many of them so you see them used for sale quite often

I think the ford brand scoop is a top model as it can be used forward and backwards.
always use a stabilizer bar or bars when using the scoop, good advise as you do not want to bent your lower lift arms, as
Ford 706 model number I think and they are blue from factory I just painted mine red to match my other equipment.
a248229.jpg

a248230.jpg
 
What would your recommendations for something with live hydraulics, power steering and maybe a loader?

I've been told to stay away from the older diesels. Is this true? What about 4x4? I've been told that it is almost needed with a loader?

I like my 3000 3 cyl diesel . It is a different animal when it comes to starting in cold weather but there are not the ignition and fuel issues that a gas tractor has . It is a 1968 model and runs great .

All of the big names made good tractors so look at what is in your price range with a loader and go to that board to ask about that specific model and what to look for good and bad . A 3000 with a loader and a malfunctioning Select O Speed is probably not a good deal at $2500 as an example . I am a Ford guy but would love to have a Massey , Case , or International with a loader at the right price . ( probably not a Deere , LOL )
 
As a second note , Time and Money are factors too . I work part time at a hospital for insurance benefits .

A couple of my friends there work long hours and make good money but have very little extra time to use their tractors . They bought brand new Kabota's with all the bells and whistles .

They are easy to operate so the work gets done quicker and they aren't spending time and money fixing or repairing them , add fuel and go . You can probably buy a brand new tractor for less money per month than a loan on a 3 -4 year old model .

You can buy an old used tractor and use the last 10K hours of a 50k life or buy a new tractor and get all 50k hours of use . Every bodies finances and needs are different ( but secretly we all would like a new Kabota , LOL )
 
(quoted from post at 10:56:26 01/13/17)
What would your recommendations for something with live hydraulics, power steering and maybe a loader?

I've been told to stay away from the older diesels. Is this true? What about 4x4? I've been told that it is almost needed with a loader?

I am a Ford guy but would love to have a Massey , Case , or International with a loader at the right price . ( probably not a Deere , LOL )

One of my neighbors kept about half of the 200ac family farm when it was sold at his father's estate auction. He also bought a brand new Ford with factory loader shortly after that which was just before Ford stopped making tractors. Don't know the exact model but something in the 4-6K weight class. It sits under cover in an open front machinery shed which I can see from the road. A couple of weeks ago a VERY nice looking but older International showed up next to it. Much larger and dwarfed the Ford. A week or so later ANOTHER very nice looking but older International the same size was sitting next to the first one. I haven't got close enough to tell but they may actually be Farmalls and both appear to have been restored by someone that cared. I have been hoping I'd run into him in town - I was wondering if his wife finally hit the lotto ;-)

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 22:13:15 01/12/17)
(quoted from post at 15:37:38 01/12/17) A 8n doses a lot better with a three point disc than it does with a drag behind type.

Well these discs were free so I thought I'd try it.
Nothing wrong with trying. Got a torch and welder? If so, they
can be converted to 3 pt hitch unless they're simply too big.
If that's the case, maybe you could trade them for or towards
a more size appropriate set?

I'd like to have an almost new 4x4 cab tractor around 50HP
with a loader, front mounted snowblower and power steering.
I say almost new because of all the emissions horror stories.

I have a 3000 I use for snow plowing now. You've probably
seen pictures of it and mini-me. 8spd, live PTO, power steering.

I also have an old Jubilee with a fully hydraulic loader on it.
I added power steering to that one because of the loader.
It has moved hundreds of yards of material for me without
FWA but that kind of work is very hard on the AG front end.

When I get that diesel 335 up and running I will put the loader
on it because of the heavier duty industrial front end.
 
(quoted from post at 19:47:38 01/13/17)
(quoted from post at 22:13:15 01/12/17)
(quoted from post at 15:37:38 01/12/17) A 8n doses a lot better with a three point disc than it does with a drag behind type.

I'd like to have an almost new 4x4 cab tractor around 50HP
with a loader, front mounted snowblower and power steering.
I say almost new because of all the emissions horror stories.

Tier 4 engines don't worry me but 30K plus does ;-) Last time I priced a Kubota Grand L with loader it was barely over 20K. Now it's well over 30K. Of course the lower number was a real dealer price and the higher is the "Build Your Kubota" price on the website so that may not be a fair comparison.....

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 20:23:20 01/13/17)
(quoted from post at 19:47:38 01/13/17)
(quoted from post at 22:13:15 01/12/17)
(quoted from post at 15:37:38 01/12/17) A 8n doses a lot better with a three point disc than it does with a drag behind type.

I'd like to have an almost new 4x4 cab tractor around 50HP
with a loader, front mounted snowblower and power steering.
I say almost new because of all the emissions horror stories.

Tier 4 engines don't worry me but 30K plus does ;-) Last time I priced a Kubota Grand L with loader it was barely over 20K. Now it's well over 30K. Of course the lower number was a real dealer price and the higher is the "Build Your Kubota" price on the website so that may not be a fair comparison.....

TOH
I looked at one at the dealer a couple of years ago. $38K
That was Tier 3 but it did include the snowblower too.
Couldn't justify it. I pretty much have one tractor for each
implement as it is and I don't have that much $ into all of them!

Now I just need to buy some more implements... :twisted:
 
(quoted from post at 23:54:14 01/13/17) They had paint??? All the ones around here are brown. Seriously, A 8N and a back scoop can move mountains if you keep at it.
My uncle quite literally moved a mountain with his scoop.
At least a 21 foot wide section of it, about 30 feet high on his
property in Bean Station Tennessee. Scoop was behind a 2000
with diff lock instead of an 8N but his perseverance won out.
I figured he'd break some lift arms or something even attempting
it, but he never did. He has passed now. Flat, level spot survives.
Carved out of the side of a mountain and a garage built on it.
 
(quoted from post at 23:54:14 01/13/17) They had paint??? All the ones around here are brown. Seriously, A 8N and a back scoop can move mountains if you keep at it.

The same could be said of a shovel and wheelbarrow ;-)

TOH
 

I've had my 8N with a FEL for ten years and have been very happy with it.

But recently I had the opportunity to purchase a 1958 Massey Ferguson 202 Workbull for $2000. It is the industrial version of the MF35. It has a 40 HP overhead valve gas engine. It has a heavy straight front axle that's built to handle the FEL on it.

It also has a three speed high / low trans so it has 6 forward gears and 2 reverse gears. Also has power steering and a foot throttle. It came with a forklift front end on it. Someone actually modified a front end off a real fork lift for this loader. I also got the FEL bucket with it. This thing will work circles around the 8N.

But I'll keep the 8N as a dedicated mowing tractor. The 202 will be used for the harder work of maintaining my dirt roads.
 
A year ago this month, I bought an L6060 open station (cannot use cab tractors due to tree limbs) optioned with all of the bells and whistles. It cost nearly as much as my M9960 open station similarly optioned but is the cat's meow for what I use it for.

Priced a Kubota RTV lately?

Dean
 
Dealer support, dealer support, dealer support! IF you don't have a good dealer near you I don't care how good a tractor is if you can't get parts same day or near the same day it isn't a good tractor no matter how well made! Here for example I can get parts for Ford, IH, JD and Kubota pretty fast. Oliver/White/AC? Not good at all. Week to 10 days at best! Other areas have good AGCO dealers, just not here!

Loaders? Unless you are young, with plenty of "power steering" by Armstrong you need PS! I've operated both! I would, being the owner of 2 8N's, Farmall M, Farmall 1206, Cat D4 7U serial number 18 (not a typo). I would never, ever consider a loader for the Farmall M or the 8N either. I also have a dedicated tractor loader backhoe. Power steering, shuttle shift (forward and reverse with the flip of a leaver). I have operated from a 5yard loader down to very small skid steers. You need PS and hydro or a power shift mp50vronmeenmat IMO.!

Rick
 

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