Broken Draincock in Engine

8N-MW

Member
[b:d1dcc29ac8]The Tractor[/b:d1dcc29ac8] [i:d1dcc29ac8](Not that it matters in this case)[/i:d1dcc29ac8]
1948 Ford 8N Gas. 6V, Front-Mount Distributor.

[b:d1dcc29ac8]The Story[/b:d1dcc29ac8]
So I live in the great frozen North (Minnesota) and use my tractor to remove snow. It needed a bit of extra help to get started in these -20 days so I did my research and ordered a heater for the lower radiator hose (#07082) and got it installed like this (FYI - It isn't painted red like the photos on the website allude to):

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I would like to install a frost plug heater in addition to this, but that is a difficult task finding a short enough heater that will fit in a 1-3/16" hole. I'm also not sure if it'd need to be threaded. Anyways, off topic!

So some chaos ensued but I drained the antifreeze from the radiator and got the lower radiator hose heater installed. I then went to drain it from the engine block and the draincock snapped off, leaving the threads in the engine block.

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I've learned by now that anytime I plan on removing and reattaching something to this tractor that is 70 years old, I just go ahead and buy a replacement ahead of time! Well part number #86625234 is the replacement for #81465471 and the place I bought the heater from didn't have it. So instead I bought a generic 1/4 NPT draincock of a different style like so:

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[b:d1dcc29ac8]The Question[/b:d1dcc29ac8]
How on earth do I get the broken off threaded part out of the engine block so I can get this thing going? Wife's due with a baby any day and I'd like to have the driveway cleared to get to town haha!

Bonus Question
Is anybody certain of the which frost plug heater goes in an 8N? I know it's a 1-3/16" plug and not very deep. Would it be threaded? If so would the KAT 30216 work? Maybe the Zero Start 3500111?
KAT:
https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/KAT30216/KAT30216
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Zero Start:
http://www.autopartsandstuff.com/zerostart-350-0111-engineehater.aspx?gclid=CJf35euvuNECFQm5wAodZGINrQ
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Carefully drill it out with a 7/16" drill bit, (the drill size for a 1/4" pipe tap), chip most of what's left of the brass, then clean up the original threads with a 1/4" pipe tap.

(This is ASSUMING it's actually 1/4" pipe thread, as you stated, I can't remember for sure, but I wouldn't think it would be 1/8".)
 
Yes, these old radiator and block drain plugs can be quite a pain sometimes, each time I open them I coat the threads with anti seize lube,
So far, over the years this has worked for me,

But, if you have not opened one of the valves in forever or maybe never, I would not try it until a warm day and you had plenty of time to
replace, repair the valve as required,

My local mechanic will not open the radiator drain plug, he always drains the radiator by loosening the lower radiator hose, said he has been
bitten too may times trying to open the drain cock and it breaks off or not seal back, loosening the lower hose works so much better and easier,
 


The broken piece in the cast iron block is brass . I would try a square EZ out ( lightly tapped into the broken plug ) first since it is not likely to be "rusted" or "stuck" . Don't crank down on an EZ out , it would be best to remove the unbroken EZ out and try something else . Removing a broken EZ out is a pain .

The replacement is steel but will work just fine . If you use a Pipe Thread tap just remember they are tappered and the hole gets bigger with every turn . A couple extra turns will not hurt you but if you get too aggressive you will get the new valve screwed in as far as it will go and still be loose .

The N motor has flat expanding "Welch" plugs and not your standard cup style freeze plugs . As far as I know they do not make a block heater that will fit an N tractor .
 
With the lower radiator hose heater you shouldn't need a block heater,it will circulate the water in the block as it heats up.You might need to try a little heat on the broken drain before you try easy outing
it.
 
Update!

I was able to get an EZ-Out (Can't believe I didn't own one) and it worked well. I got everything hooked up, antifreeze filled, etc...

The tractor is warming up right now and we'll see what happens. It is currently 4*F with a windchill of -25*F. Got a drift developing in the driveway that's pretty intimidating.

The next few days will be daytime highs around 0*F, nighttime highs of -10*F. The daytime windchill will be getting down to -35*F.

We'll see what this tractor (and myself) are made of haha!

Thanks for all the time.
 
Remember that 'wind chill factor' only affects humans. An 8N cannot get any colder than the ambient temperature. But I must say that your ambient temp is rather cold!

Garry
 
glad you got your coolant system sorted out.

I bought one of these Kat's 1153 magnetic engine heaters to warm the engine oil on a cold morning.

amazon rating indicated it was a top selling product: but other reviews not so much, it is not plumbed into the coolant system,

must be magnetically attached to the side of the block for an hr or so before you fire up, on a extremely cold day,

but you can take it off and have no wires, extra parts to worry about.

normally I do not drive my tractor in extremely cold weather,

all I can say is more than one way to review a problem.

I am in no way recommending it, just another way to warm the engine.
 
(quoted from post at 20:07:04 01/10/17) Remember that 'wind chill factor' only affects humans. An 8N cannot get any colder than the ambient temperature. But I must say that your ambient temp is rather cold!

Garry

I had a friend that you could not convince of this. Only thing wind will do is help it cool off faster until it gets to ambient temp.
 
I have a lower radiator hose heater installed in my Skat Trak skid steer, which is an 80 hp. diesel and it keeps the whole engine warm to the touch with the temps in the single digits. So I really doubt you will need any additional heater installed. Just my thoughts, Keith
 
You only need the lower radiator hose heater. That's all I ever used on my 9N. Very simple to use. Mine work for about 20 years and was on a timer for the winter months.
 

[b:c6765b031f]"Remember that 'wind chill factor' only affects humans. An 8N cannot get any colder than the ambient temperature."[/b:c6765b031f]

[b:c6765b031f]"I had a friend that you could not convince of this. Only thing wind will do is help it cool off faster until it gets to ambient temp."[/b:c6765b031f]

the idea that wind chill affects inanimate things is a really common misconception. it might help if people knew the original name for it - evaporative cooling. some people, i guess, need to stop hosing their tractors down in cold weather ;)
 
Yep, certainly doesn't effect the engine temperature or anything like that.

But, more importantly, it effects the willingness of the operator to drive the darn thing haha!
 
Ah yes....love the cold weather. I have my trickle charger and an electric heater plugged into a surge protector next to my tractor. Half-hour or so before I need it, I flip the switch. It gets warm enough that it starts right up.
 
Ever use an Easy Out Thread Extracting Tool? The petcock is brass, a soft metal, so get one or a set of these handy dandy little tools and try it. Example shown in LINK below...


Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
Easy Out
 

[b:418d61339e]"But, more importantly, it effects the willingness of the operator to drive the darn thing haha!"[/b:418d61339e]

:lol: it sure does.

i am a generous master, and my N gets winters off. if i can help it, i won't get on a tractor at all - but if i have to, that's the WD's job this time of year. the N mows lawns, and hibernates in the pole barn.

and i guess it won't be any consolation if i say that here in michigan, i think of u poor souls in minnesota whenever i start thinking MY winters suck :)
 

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