9N Wont Fire

Dam 9n

New User
9N, 12V Negative Ground conversion, electronic ignition conversion, new carb, new gas tank, new sediment bowl, new battery, new ammeter.

Will not fire. I have good fuel delivery, compression is 110,105,115,120 or so. I checked spark with light tester and with plug at 1/4" gap. All cylinders have light but seems weak. Using the plug I could hear the spark with all cylinders but not see it well, but I could see it here and there. It seemed to jump to the threads before it would jump to the end of the electrode on one or two. My ammeter does not move when starting and the old one did not move when the tractor did run, hence the new one. My starter switch is not stock, its mounted on the side, it was that way when I bought it. There have been times when the starter button sticks and I have to tap it to get it to stop engaging.

The last modification I did was the electronic ignition and the ammeter would not move so I replaced it, have yet to know if it works. The tractor did start one time after the mod and I used it for about an hour, turned it off and hasn't started since. very disappointing.

Thanks in advance
 
The number 1 cause of a weak spark is a weak
battery. Charge it (see tip # 60) and check
it per tip # 49.

Call Pertronix and have them tell you
exactly how to test the module.

And you can let the smoke out of the module
if you are not using suppression plug wires.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 20:05:44 01/07/17) The number 1 cause of a weak spark is a weak
battery. Charge it (see tip # 60) and check
it per tip # 49.

Call Pertronix and have them tell you
exactly how to test the module.

And you can let the smoke out of the module
if you are not using suppression plug wires.
75 Tips

Thanks Bruce. The battery is fairly new but it may be a little run down now. Good excuse to buy a charger.

Can you clarify the smoke remark? I don't know anything about how those modules work.

Supposing after the battery is charged the tractor starts and I check the ammeter and it is not moving and the voltage of the battery is still at what it was when the tractor is not running, am I looking at getting the alternator bench tested? When I did the conversion to 12V the wiring instructions were not very good so I am not entirely confident the wiring is set up correctly. No sparks fly at least.

Thanks again.
 
"but it may be a little run down now. " Yep

" Can you clarify the smoke remark?"

My sad attempt at humor. All electronics run on smoke, because when you short a wire, you see a puff of smoke & it stops working. You let the smoke out.

Sad, huh?!

The module is a Hall Effect Sensor; basically a magnetic on/off switch. Nine times out of ten, they either work or they don't. Testing methods vary, but chances are Pertronix will tell you to hook up a voltmeter in-line, turn the engine over & see if the meter senses voltage. I had 2 module failures which, according to Pertronix, were because of my copper core wires. No suppression wires are available for my 1950 MG-TD.

The alternator isn't keeping the tractor from starting. It only charges the battery. When running, it should put out 14.5 volts. See tip # 47 to check it.

Google "wiring diagrams JMOR" to get the correct diagram for your tractor.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 11:43:34 01/08/17) "but it may be a little run down now. " Yep

" Can you clarify the smoke remark?"

My sad attempt at humor. All electronics run on smoke, because when you short a wire, you see a puff of smoke & it stops working. You let the smoke out.

Sad, huh?!

The module is a Hall Effect Sensor; basically a magnetic on/off switch. Nine times out of ten, they either work or they don't. Testing methods vary, but chances are Pertronix will tell you to hook up a voltmeter in-line, turn the engine over & see if the meter senses voltage. I had 2 module failures which, according to Pertronix, were because of my copper core wires. No suppression wires are available for my 1950 MG-TD.

The alternator isn't keeping the tractor from starting. It only charges the battery. When running, it should put out 14.5 volts. See tip # 47 to check it.

Google "wiring diagrams JMOR" to get the correct diagram for your tractor.
75 Tips

That is funny!

I'll charge the battery, if it fires I'll check the alternator and ammeter, if it doesn't I'll call Pertronix. I have Copper core plugs but not wires. I don't understand the suppression wires. I was thinking the alternator not charging was causing the weak battery now after I had it running for a couple hours initially, not that it was suppose to start the tractor.

Thanks.
 
Plug wires give off EMI (electromagnetic interference) Copper wires are the worst offenders. They are the best wires for these old vehicles w/ no digital equipment at all, not even a radio. But according to Pertronix, the EMI will burn out the module. All modern vehicles use carbon core or some other type of resistor or suppressor plug wires.
75 Tips
 


Smokekit2.jpg
 
12v conversion? electronic ignition? Will not fire? Impossible.... electronic ignition permanently cures all ignition
problems completelty... just ask the cult members here that follow that line of thinking that. ;)
 

granted, i've only been here a year, but i don't recall seeing any cult members claim EI fixes everything.

lucas also took a shot at manufacturing vacuums. it was the only product they sold that didn't suck.
 
(quoted from post at 11:41:23 01/09/17)
granted, i've only been here a year, but i don't recall seeing any cult members claim EI fixes everything.

lucas also took a shot at manufacturing vacuums. it was the only product they sold that didn't suck.

Oh wow! That's good stuff.
 
Success.

Apparently if 2 of your 4 spark plugs have the ground electrode smashed down onto the center electrode by the piston, the tractor will not fire. The culprit was the "upgrade" spark plugs I was recommended. The thread portion on the "upgrade" was almost 2x as long as the original and the piston was smashing them. I should have checked that but didn't. I switched the plugs back to standard and it fired right up. The new ammeter registered in the negative but after using the wiring diagram suggested above, I switched 2 wires and it worked correctly. Hope this helps someone else.

Thanks for the info Bruce.
 

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