Hello, I have an issue with a brand new rear axle hub that will not tighten down flush with the end of a brand
new axle.It tightens down to within about a quarter of an inch but no further. I have not used a torque
wrench yet (gotta get a new socket) but have used a 16 inch pipe wrench just to get it close. I am stumped but
I think I may have some clues and need input from experienced tractor folks. This is my first attempt at restoring
a tractor.
Here is some background info that may help. These ""new" axles came from a parts house and would be considered
"new" old stock. NAPA pressed on the new bearings and said the axles looked as if they had never been used. They had no
burs or obvious deformities in the splines. They came with an axle nut already on them. I am replacing seals,bearings and
brakes on each wheel. This is a 1949 8N verified by serial # on motor. I put one side together and had no problems
with the hub fitting the axle.
Note the trumpet tube for this side has a casting mark that says 8N 40313 and casting date of 11-16-48. The problem
occurs on the other side. I carefully put everything back together in the proper order (verified this with the manual
as well as the successful side). I put a thin gasket and sealant between each part to avoid leaks and slipped on the new hub.
I can't remember if I did a trial fit with this hub and axle before I put it together. A little voice in my head tells me I
did the test fit for both hubs on the same axle . Anyway, when I tightened the axle nut the hub will only get to 1/4 inch
of being flush with the axle.......and I don't know why. Note: the trumpet tube on this side of the tractor is not stamped
with 8N it has a triangular shape with an "I" inside of the triangle and is followed by C-I35 and an upside down 2.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
1. Am I just being impatient and when I get the 450 lb torque on the axle this will all go away?
2. Do I have an incorrect but still useable trumpet tube on this side that causes the 1/4 inch difference?
3. Will this affect the performance of the outer seal
3. Does the fact that I could put all of these new parts together without the need of any shims or extra gaskets and
still have 1/8 bearing slop on each axle mean that I may have even bigger problems somewhere in the differential?
Thanks in advance for any help you may have to offer.
new axle.It tightens down to within about a quarter of an inch but no further. I have not used a torque
wrench yet (gotta get a new socket) but have used a 16 inch pipe wrench just to get it close. I am stumped but
I think I may have some clues and need input from experienced tractor folks. This is my first attempt at restoring
a tractor.
Here is some background info that may help. These ""new" axles came from a parts house and would be considered
"new" old stock. NAPA pressed on the new bearings and said the axles looked as if they had never been used. They had no
burs or obvious deformities in the splines. They came with an axle nut already on them. I am replacing seals,bearings and
brakes on each wheel. This is a 1949 8N verified by serial # on motor. I put one side together and had no problems
with the hub fitting the axle.
Note the trumpet tube for this side has a casting mark that says 8N 40313 and casting date of 11-16-48. The problem
occurs on the other side. I carefully put everything back together in the proper order (verified this with the manual
as well as the successful side). I put a thin gasket and sealant between each part to avoid leaks and slipped on the new hub.
I can't remember if I did a trial fit with this hub and axle before I put it together. A little voice in my head tells me I
did the test fit for both hubs on the same axle . Anyway, when I tightened the axle nut the hub will only get to 1/4 inch
of being flush with the axle.......and I don't know why. Note: the trumpet tube on this side of the tractor is not stamped
with 8N it has a triangular shape with an "I" inside of the triangle and is followed by C-I35 and an upside down 2.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
1. Am I just being impatient and when I get the 450 lb torque on the axle this will all go away?
2. Do I have an incorrect but still useable trumpet tube on this side that causes the 1/4 inch difference?
3. Will this affect the performance of the outer seal
3. Does the fact that I could put all of these new parts together without the need of any shims or extra gaskets and
still have 1/8 bearing slop on each axle mean that I may have even bigger problems somewhere in the differential?
Thanks in advance for any help you may have to offer.