New rear hubs won't tighten to new axle

Zardoz

New User
Hello, I have an issue with a brand new rear axle hub that will not tighten down flush with the end of a brand
new axle.It tightens down to within about a quarter of an inch but no further. I have not used a torque
wrench yet (gotta get a new socket) but have used a 16 inch pipe wrench just to get it close. I am stumped but
I think I may have some clues and need input from experienced tractor folks. This is my first attempt at restoring
a tractor.
Here is some background info that may help. These ""new" axles came from a parts house and would be considered
"new" old stock. NAPA pressed on the new bearings and said the axles looked as if they had never been used. They had no
burs or obvious deformities in the splines. They came with an axle nut already on them. I am replacing seals,bearings and
brakes on each wheel. This is a 1949 8N verified by serial # on motor. I put one side together and had no problems
with the hub fitting the axle.
Note the trumpet tube for this side has a casting mark that says 8N 40313 and casting date of 11-16-48. The problem
occurs on the other side. I carefully put everything back together in the proper order (verified this with the manual
as well as the successful side). I put a thin gasket and sealant between each part to avoid leaks and slipped on the new hub.
I can't remember if I did a trial fit with this hub and axle before I put it together. A little voice in my head tells me I
did the test fit for both hubs on the same axle :(. Anyway, when I tightened the axle nut the hub will only get to 1/4 inch
of being flush with the axle.......and I don't know why. Note: the trumpet tube on this side of the tractor is not stamped
with 8N it has a triangular shape with an "I" inside of the triangle and is followed by C-I35 and an upside down 2.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
1. Am I just being impatient and when I get the 450 lb torque on the axle this will all go away?
2. Do I have an incorrect but still useable trumpet tube on this side that causes the 1/4 inch difference?
3. Will this affect the performance of the outer seal
3. Does the fact that I could put all of these new parts together without the need of any shims or extra gaskets and
still have 1/8 bearing slop on each axle mean that I may have even bigger problems somewhere in the differential?

Thanks in advance for any help you may have to offer.
 
Sounds good to me. Hub needs to protrude out past splined part of axle. If the other way around the hub will never be tight to axle.
 
(quoted from post at 19:58:30 01/02/17) Hello, I have an issue with a brand new rear axle hub that will not tighten down flush with the end of a brand
new axle.It tightens down to within about a quarter of an inch but no further. I have not used a torque
wrench yet (gotta get a new socket) but have used a 16 inch pipe wrench just to get it close. I am stumped but
I think I may have some clues and need input from experienced tractor folks. This is my first attempt at restoring
a tractor.
Here is some background info that may help. These ""new" axles came from a parts house and would be considered
"new" old stock. NAPA pressed on the new bearings and said the axles looked as if they had never been used. They had no
burs or obvious deformities in the splines. They came with an axle nut already on them. I am replacing seals,bearings and
brakes on each wheel. This is a 1949 8N verified by serial # on motor. I put one side together and had no problems
with the hub fitting the axle.
Note the trumpet tube for this side has a casting mark that says 8N 40313 and casting date of 11-16-48. The problem
occurs on the other side. I carefully put everything back together in the proper order (verified this with the manual
as well as the successful side). I put a thin gasket and sealant between each part to avoid leaks and slipped on the new hub.
I can't remember if I did a trial fit with this hub and axle before I put it together. A little voice in my head tells me I
did the test fit for both hubs on the same axle :(. Anyway, when I tightened the axle nut the hub will only get to 1/4 inch
of being flush with the axle.......and I don't know why. Note: the trumpet tube on this side of the tractor is not stamped
with 8N it has a triangular shape with an "I" inside of the triangle and is followed by C-I35 and an upside down 2.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
1. Am I just being impatient and when I get the 450 lb torque on the axle this will all go away?
2. Do I have an incorrect but still useable trumpet tube on this side that causes the 1/4 inch difference?
3. Will this affect the performance of the outer seal
3. Does the fact that I could put all of these new parts together without the need of any shims or extra gaskets and
still have 1/8 bearing slop on each axle mean that I may have even bigger problems somewhere in the differential?

Thanks in advance for any help you may have to offer.

There are a lot of junk axles and hubs out there. China doesn't make them to the tolerances that Ford did. Your "NOS" axles may have been sitting around a warehouse getting old because someone returned them before with the complaint that they aren't right.

The trumpet housing has nothing to do with how the hub fits on the axle shaft.

Where's the quarter inch? The spline ends themselves on the axle and hub or the flat washer face to the splines on the axle?

If the inside end of the hub goes into the outer seal far enough to get a complete seal it will be ok.

If you have assembled everything (correctly) with no shims on either side and you still have 1/8" of end play in the axle shafts, you have a major problem. The differential has nothing to do with it. The inside axle ends butt together where they pass thru the differential. That extra play would indicate the axles are made too short.
 
Just get an old worn out hub and put it on the axle. This may let the hub slide on far enough to get the nut on correctly.

It's possible that the new axle is machined wrong or the new hub is machined wrong. China, Land or almost right.

Zane X master mechanic
 

I have the opposite problem. My hub is tight on the axle but the seal end of the hub has rubbed against the bearing retainer. About .030" into the retainer. There is about .100" of thread left on the axle before the nut bottoms out. The axle splines extend about .125" out past the hub splines.

When removing the hub I had to lossen the nut about 1/8" and hook to a heavy bush hog to get it free.

I know I probably need a new hub due to the splines not being flush but I am concerned about getting ane hub which may not match any better.

My question is:

Since the hub and axle fit snug why can't I just grind off about .060" of the end of the hub to clear the retainer and add another .100" thick washer under the axle nut?

I am adding new outer and inner seals plus re packing the tapered bearing, which looks good.

This should not effect the axial position of the axle/bearing nor the hub and retainer from where it is now.

Another question is how to tell if the two axles are touching at the center of the differential. If they don't touch initially then adding shims will separate them further wouldn't they?

Will this work or create other problems? This is a Ford golden jubilee. Used mostly to bush hog about 3 to 4 hours per month.

Thanks,
Cgun
 

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