47 8n carb

I "rebuilt" my carb (mostly just replaced bad gaskets and cleaned it up)

When I put it back together and put it on the tractor it poured fuel out of the carb air breather connection. It wouldn't do more then start for 5 seconds about every 10 tries. I'm assuming something isn't seated correctly. I've taken it back apart and I'm currently soaking it in engine decreaser and carb cleaner.

Any recommendations for me when I put it back together?

Also, do I need the little spring looking thing that sits under the float on the valve seat? The video I watched the guy didn't use it and it didn't have one on when I took it apart.

Lastly I can find starting recommendations for the Jets but not the little screw on the back side that won't come out because of the stud. Should this screw be down tight?

"little screw on the back side that won't come out because of the stud"

What brand/model of carb are you working on?

As far as the leaking, the needle valve and seat may not be
closing, the seat may not be tight or may be missing the gasket
that should be under it. Also possible that the float is hanging
on the side of the bowl or otherwise binding or that the float
has a leak, is filling with gas and sinking.

The little spring wouldn't normally make it leak like this.
Normally there is no harm in leaving it out but sometimes the
needle will stick closed and you have to tap the carb to get the
needle to unstick and let gas flow into the carb.

Marvil Schreiber original carb.

"Marvil Schreiber original carb."

8N's could have came with different model Marvel Schebler
carbs based on serial number. That really isn't the issue here
though, any of them will work just fine when they work correctly.

I don't know for sure what screw on the back you're talking about.
If it is the idle stop screw, it will come out, but set it while you
have the carb halves apart. Back the screw out so the throttle
plate closes completely, then turn the screw in until you can just
see light coming through around the plate.
Then adjust it once running so the engine idles at ~400 RPM.

That's not causing the leaking/flooding though.

1st, if you had the carb off and disassembled, and only 'cleaned it up' and replaced 'bad gaskets', there's no excuse why you didn't do a complete rebuild, set float if needed, et al. The early 8Ns used the Marvel Schebler TSX-33 carb, then went to the TSX-241 carb, but as stated, no matter, either will work when tuned up properly. The M/S carbs have a cast boss with the model number in cast recessed characters, then later went to a brass tag with middle number and date of manufacture stamped on them. 2nd, the choke poppet and spring is needed and could be why you are gushing fuel, especially if it gets installed backwards. 3rd, sometimes the float sticks and prevents proper opening and closing and thus cause fuel to flow out of control. here are some diagrams to help you better understand what is going on. The Marvel-Schebler TSX-33 carb is shown on top with the Main Adjustment screw on the top left in picture. There are three adjustment screws; Main, Idle, and Throttle. Open Main 1-1/2-2 turns and leave it. An important detail about setting the carb is it must be done when engine is hot/up to operating temperature AND under load. The setting procedure often has to be performed several times in order to get it right. Under a load is hard, but one method is to apply both brakes, in 1st gear, and throttle up from there. That requires a second person to make idle adjustments as needed, but this method isn't the safest.




Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

Well yes I obviously made sure the float was at 1/4" while putting it back together. About the only thing I didn't do is replace the butterfly because my kit didn't have them.

In the very bottom picture the screw I refer to is the screw on the top left that is unlabeled

In the bottom photo ploughman posted it is
the screw on the top left not labeled

(quoted from post at 08:14:53 12/30/16) In the bottom photo ploughman posted it is
the screw on the top left not labeled

Click to expand...

That is a plug and is plugging a hole used in manufacture. only reason to remove is if you wanted to run a wire thru the passageways like the picture is showing.

This could go on forever. Get a hold of Royce, sent the carb to him, pay a huge amount of $$ (just kidding about that part), get it back , install on tractor and you should be good to go. This is assuming the ignition system is up to par. GB in MT used to offer this same service - he's just too lazy now !

(quoted from post at 18:18:52 12/30/16) This could go on forever. Get a hold of Royce, sent the carb to him, pay a huge amount of $$ (just kidding about that part), get it back , install on tractor and you should be good to go. This is assuming the ignition system is up to par. GB in MT used to offer this same service - he's just too lazy now !

Click to expand...

b:dc229872dc][i:dc229872dc]

Bob;
Man. are you in trouble now.......I just told Leslie that you said that she was not the real reason that I quit doing carbs!!!!
She is mad enough to smash yer eggs, and set yer nest on fire.

Gary[/i:dc229872dc][/b:dc229872dc]

(quoted from post at 21:36:38 12/30/16)

(quoted from post at 18:18:52 12/30/16) This could go on forever. Get a hold of Royce, sent the carb to him, pay a huge amount of $$ (just kidding about that part), get it back , install on tractor and you should be good to go. This is assuming the ignition system is up to par. GB in MT used to offer this same service - he's just too lazy now !

Click to expand...

b:f496d8f81a][i:f496d8f81a]

Bob;
Man. are you in trouble now.......I just told Leslie that you said that she was not the real reason that I quit doing carbs!!!!
She is mad enough to smash yer eggs, and set yer nest on fire.

Gary[/i:f496d8f81a][/b:f496d8f81a]

Click to expand...

Gentlemen, please! That doesn't sound like a pleasant experience.
I sure wouldn't want either of you to go through that! :lol:
I'm Ok with "huge amounts of money" if anyone wants to send it though.

Well, there are two carb kits available, one is a basic, cheaper kit that does not contain very many parts in it. You may have to spend a few extra $$$ and get the complete kit. It also helps to get good reliable parts -it does matter who makes them and who you buy from. Me personally, I avoid places like TSC at all costs. Even some so-called Ford Tractor parts dealers sell the same carp. Royse has an impeccable record of rebuilding carbs and I too have done many of them too, so we both advertise rebuild services and I offer, I think Royse does too, that you only pay for parts and shipping both ways. Once I do a carb rebuild, i test it, tweak it on an actual 8N tractor so when you get it, little to no adjusting is needed. Do you have an I&T F-04 manual? That contains a whole chapter on the carb with drawings and part lists as well.


Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

So, now your fibbing to Leslie !

Well Royce, you are in the middle of one of the worst possible conflicts since - yesterday, when I couldn't tie my shoes ! Turns out I was wearing my slip ons. It just never ends with that Gary. All the Best to you and Yours ! b

Only 1 kit offered at my local store. I wanted to get it asap so didn't want to wait for shipping.