8n runs rough after short drive

to30man

Member
The 8n I got going starts fine but after I
drive it up the drive and back and get off
it starts running rough and cuts off it will
START back using 4th choke and run for a
second. After it sits a little it will START
back up. I am having a hard time setting the
carb because of a manifold leak. The gear
shifter comes up easy and I have a hard time
finding reverse not sure what that is about
I checked some others and they come up as
well but not as easy as mine. Any tips on
removing the manifold. I have a video of the
tractor running but can't seem to post that
 

pulling the manifold is pretty easy. take the fuel line off the carb. then pull the 2 nuts on studs that hold the carb to the manifold. u may or may not also need to remove linkage(s) from carb - i don't think i had to - and lower carb away from manifold. cover it with something to keep crud out, and then pull the 4 nuts on studs (possibly replaced by bolts on some tractors) and off it comes.
 
You may want to go ahead and fix that manifold leak, and see how it runs afterwards. That could very well be your entire running problem. They will not run right if they are getting vacuum leaks around the intake. I would suggest spraying the manifold studs with penetrating oil a few times before removal, they may have regular nuts on them instead of brass or what ever was original. Once the manifold is off, make sure the ports on the head and intake are not corroded away and not seal when reassembled. I am not sure if coolant will come out if the intake studs decide to come out as an assembly instead of just the nut comes off, just be prepared it could happen. i am sure someone else will answer that possibility. As far as the shifter coming up, I am not too sure on that, but you may have to pull the shifter cover off and see how much play is in the shifter assembly, I see a lot of those for sale on eBay, if that is the problem.
 
You have a fuel obstruction. Remove the pipe plug from the bottom of the carb and check the fuel flow. Should fill a pint jar in less than two minutes. There are three filter in the fuel system. One in the stand pipe in the tank. One in the sed bowl and another in the carb elbow. One or more is clogged and needs replaced.
 
To30man.......you do know gravity fed carbies don't work well with a VACUUM, don't you? Crack yer gastank cap and relieve the VACUUM. Simple, eh? Heres the deal, theres a VENT in the DOME at the front of the gastank that mud daubers like to seal. You haffta remove the hood and tank to gitt to the dome to clean it out. Me? I'd squander $25 (cheap) fer a VENTED gas cap fer a 600. As fer yer manifold leak, spray some WD-40 with the straw squirter around the gaskets. WD-40 is NON-FLAMMABLE but will seal enny leaks. Also, use BRASS NUTS fer manifold. Why? 'cuz BRASS will strip and leave the studs still screwed into the block. Some studs are thru into the antifreeze so having the BRASS strip first prevents leaks. Sucha deal, eh? ........leaky Dell
 

[b:aca018974e]"WD-40 is NON-FLAMMABLE but will seal enny leaks."[/b:aca018974e]

:?

with all due respect, WD40 IS flammable, and won't seal anything.
 
Thanks for the info I am going to fix the manifold leak and then start on the fuel. I checked some other 8n around and there gear shifter will come up a little but mine comes up more and seems alot looser. They all look like mine under the boot looks like I am going to have another project once I get it running nice. Happy New Year to all
 

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