Stumped by 9N

Cowchip500 · Dec 28, 2016

A couple months ago, I was sitting on my 9N, which was running fine. Suddenly, it sounded like it fouled a couple plugs. To keep it running I increased the throttle till wide-open. It wouldn't spin much higher than idle-speed. I limped it into the shop, replaced the points and each plug throws a decent spark, but it still barely runs. I cleaned the carb and even swapped the carb with my good-running 8N. No improvement. I have good gas flow (much of it dumps out the carb after cranking). I'm going to change plug wires, but I'm betting that won't solve my problem.
Any ideas?

HFJ · Dec 29, 2016

hi chip, and welcome to YT

try this to confirm gas flow: get yourself a pint jar, and with the gas turned on at the sediment bowl, pull the plug on the bottom of the carb and let it flow into the jar. it should fill the jar in 2 or 3 minutes. if not, your flow isn't as good as it ought to be.

Dell (WA) · Dec 29, 2016

(quoted from post at 22:53:40 12/28/16) A couple months ago, I was sitting on my 9N, which was running fine. Suddenly, it sounded like it fouled a couple plugs. To keep it running I increased the throttle till wide-open. It wouldn't spin much higher than idle-speed. I limped it into the shop, replaced the points and each plug throws a decent spark, but it still barely runs. I cleaned the carb and even swapped the carb with my good-running 8N. No improvement. I have good gas flow (much of it dumps out the carb after cranking). I'm going to change plug wires, but I'm betting that won't solve my problem.
Any ideas?

HY ya wanna replace yer sparkie wires??? They aintchur problem as described. You do know the weird 4-nipple front mount dizzy is designed to have the points (0.015) replaced on the kitchen table, don't you??? Just un-snapple the capple and remove the 2-bolts and walk. After replacing the points (0.015), clamp the corner of $1-bill (cheap) between the points and pull. The will POLISH the INVISIBLE corrosion from between the points. Now finger start the 2-bolts and install the rotor. Rotate the rotor until the OFF-SET tang fits the OFF-SET slot in the camshaft. Now tighten the 2-bolts and re-snapple yer capple. Simple, eh? ........the amazed Dell

Cowchip500 · Dec 29, 2016

Well, there's one problem; I didn't know what the gap should be, so I figured .028 should be safe. The wires look pretty old and brittle, so I thought maybe they could cause an intermittent short (on a couple holes). Yeah, not likely, but who knows. I'll change the gap tomorrow. Thanx.

Cowchip500 · Dec 29, 2016

I didn't check the flow from the bowl, just the fuel line. I assumed it would be the same.

Dell (WA) · Dec 29, 2016

Chipper.......BIG CAUTION.......when I replaced the sparkie wires on my eazy startin' 6-volt 52-8N, I had my 9-YO son do it. (supervized of course) I bought a set with right angle booties fer Chevy V-8 from a HOT-ROD store. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. As already explained, front mount points = 0.015".........yer sparkie-meister Dell

Bruce (VA) · Dec 29, 2016

First, see tip # 39. No need to guess about
simple things like point gap. You own a 60+
year old tractor; you need the manuals. Even
a toaster comes with a manual.

Next,before you toss more parts at it, see
tip # 13. You don't know at this point if
you have a spark or fuel problem.

And do check out tips 66, 67 & 68.

Post back with results or more questions.
75 Tips

Bruce (VA) · Dec 29, 2016

" I didn't check the flow from the bowl, just the fuel line. I assumed it would be the same. "

If the screen in the elbow is clogged or the needle valve is stuck, removing the fuel line won't tell you that.
75 Tips

R Geiger · Dec 29, 2016

fire it up in the dark and look for alight show around the wires.

Cowchip500 · Jan 5, 2017

I got a user-manual, checked the flow from the float bowl and it's good. Double-checked each sparkplug and they're all firing, still no fire. Same thing with the carb off my 8N, which ran fine. I did NOT check the spark with a plug at 1/4" gap yet. With a daytime high of 13 deg, I'm not doing much outside, these days. If it had a timing chain, I'd think it's skipped. It's trying to start, but doesn't have enough umph to keep running once I let off the starter.

Bruce (VA) · Jan 5, 2017

" It's trying to start, but doesn't have enough umph to keep running once I let off the starter. "

That's a classic case of low voltage. At 13*, I'd say that's the problem.

Put your battery on a charger. (see tip # 60)

You need a strong battery to:

1. Spin the starter

2. Engage the bendix

3. Provide voltage to the coil.

As the battery gets weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark.

In addition to charging the battery, chances are you need new cables as well (tip # 41). And, don't forget to clean all the grounds, to include the mating area between the starter & the block.

The more current you use to spin the starter, the less you have for the ignition.
75 Tips

Cowchip500 · Jan 5, 2017

I didn't mention that it's had a 12v conversion, new battery, and I'm cranking with a charger hooked up and I bypassed the resistor, just in case it was starving for juice. I would like to see blue sparks, but they're strong orange.

Bruce (VA) · Jan 5, 2017

That's nice info to know.

It's not the color of the spark that matters. It's the distance it will jump.

Stumped by 9N

Cowchip500

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HFJ

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Dell (WA)

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Cowchip500

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Cowchip500

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Dell (WA)

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Bruce (VA)

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R Geiger

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Cowchip500

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Cowchip500

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