Resistor to ignition getting hot---9N ford

I have a 9N ford--when i turn on the switch the resister mounted behind the dash panel get hot..The longer the switch is on the hotter it start getting to the point of even glowing some...It is brand new. I unhooked the wire going to the top on the coil so i know there is no short from the resistor to that...Does that mean my coil is bad? Maybe condensor/points? I also unhooked the wire to the generator still does it...help please..
 
(quoted from post at 16:18:32 12/17/16) I have a 9N ford--when i turn on the switch the resister mounted behind the dash panel get hot..The longer the switch is on the hotter it start getting to the point of even glowing some...It is brand new. I unhooked the wire going to the top on the coil so i know there is no short from the resistor to that...Does that mean my coil is bad? Maybe condensor/points? I also unhooked the wire to the generator still does it...help please..
f it is getting hot with the wire to the top of the coil getting hot, then you have a short between the ballast resistor and the coil. run a new wire if you have to.
 
As R. Geiger said, find the short. If you put too much voltage into the coil, you could have fried it.

6v or 12v?

Google wiring diagrams JMOR and find the diagram for your tractor. Make sure it's wired correctly.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 15:47:48 12/17/16)
(quoted from post at 16:18:32 12/17/16) I have a 9N ford--when i turn on the switch the resister mounted behind the dash panel get hot..The longer the switch is on the hotter it start getting to the point of even glowing some...It is brand new. I unhooked the wire going to the top on the coil so i know there is no short from the resistor to that...Does that mean my coil is bad? Maybe condensor/points? I also unhooked the wire to the generator still does it...help please..
f it is getting hot with the wire to the top of the coil getting hot, then you have a short between the ballast resistor and the coil. run a new wire if you have to.
thanks for the reply but Like posted above..''I unhooked the wire going to the top on the coil so i know there is no short from the resistor to that.'' (the coil)
 
been running the same battery for a couple years..Positive gound...6Volt....there's no short from the ballast to the coil....is there a way to test the coil?
 
(quoted from post at 16:10:06 12/17/16) As R. Geiger said, find the short. If you put too much voltage into the coil, you could have fried it.

6v or 12v?

Google wiring diagrams JMOR and find the diagram for your tractor. Make sure it's wired correctly.
75 Tips
I had the tractor and been using it for 15 years...didn't change anything...Been running the same battery for a couple years.. Positive gound...6Volt....there's no short from the ballast to the coil, i checked that....is there a way to test the coil?
 
(quoted from post at 16:16:39 12/17/16) Test the coil for what? If the resistor is red hot when you turn the key on, the problem isn't the coil.
Was wondering if the coil could be shorted why i asked if it could be tested..
 
If you have disconnected the wire from the coil, it's not getting any current. if you did have the key on with the points closed for 10 minutes or so, you could have burnt up the coil. See tip # 38.
 
(quoted from post at 16:16:39 12/17/16) Test the coil for what? If the resistor is red hot when you turn the key on, the problem isn't the coil.
So if it's not the coil, Its wired the same as the last 15 years, the ballast does not get hot until ''after'' i turn on the switch and there's no short from the ballast to the coil what are the other things it could be? appreciate your help and still trying to figure it out..
 
Bybass the resistor. Run a wire from the negative terminal to the top of the coil . If it starts that way, replace the
reisitor and the wire to the coil.
 
(quoted from post at 16:34:19 12/17/16) If you have disconnected the wire from the coil, it's not getting any current. if you did have the key on with the points closed for 10 minutes or so, you could have burnt up the coil. See tip # 38.
OK--i just posted but I'll look at that..
 
(quoted from post at 16:43:17 12/17/16) Bybass the resistor. Run a wire from the negative terminal to the top of the coil . If it starts that way, replace the
reisitor and the wire to the coil.
I kinda done that...i took a screwdrive and crossed over the two posts on the resistor. It didn't start..Also it is a NEW resistor now and i have checked the wire to the coil for a short or damage....But i may try your suggestion....I also need to check the volts going to the resistor with a volt meter..
 
would it surprize you to learn the "infamous" ballast resistor is supposta gitt HOT???......burnie-burnie....The ballast resistor was Ford's trick fer the weak 6-volt batterys that were being sold. BTW, in Ford's MPC (master parts catalog) the battery isn't even listed as 6-volts, just "13-plates". Today, it is known as size-1A. While, there are some obscure advantatges to positive (+) ground, most neubie tractor wannabees install it negative (-) ground, like their 12-volt BelchFire-V8. Either way, the 6-volt starter motor always turns the correct direction, 12-volts just makes it turn faster fer eazier starting. BTW, recommend AutoLite 437 sparkies gapped 0.025. .........HTH, the amazed Dell and sparkie-meister
 
(quoted from post at 19:50:44 12/17/16) would it surprize you to learn the "infamous" ballast resistor is supposta gitt HOT???......burnie-burnie....The ballast resistor was Ford's trick fer the weak 6-volt batterys that were being sold. BTW, in Ford's MPC (master parts catalog) the battery isn't even listed as 6-volts, just "13-plates". Today, it is known as size-1A. While, there are some obscure advantatges to positive (+) ground, most neubie tractor wannabees install it negative (-) ground, like their 12-volt BelchFire-V8. Either way, the 6-volt starter motor always turns the correct direction, 12-volts just makes it turn faster fer eazier starting. BTW, recommend AutoLite 437 sparkies gapped 0.025. .........HTH, the amazed Dell and sparkie-meister
OK--thanks..i just didn't think it was suppose to get glowing red almost..I'll check a few things out and do a tune up with plugs, points, etc...thanks
 
(quoted from post at 17:11:04 12/17/16)
(quoted from post at 15:47:48 12/17/16)
(quoted from post at 16:18:32 12/17/16) I have a 9N ford--when i turn on the switch the resister mounted behind the dash panel get hot..The longer the switch is on the hotter it start getting to the point of even glowing some...It is brand new. I unhooked the wire going to the top on the coil so i know there is no short from the resistor to that...Does that mean my coil is bad? Maybe condensor/points? I also unhooked the wire to the generator still does it...help please..
f it is getting hot with the wire to the top of the coil getting hot, then you have a short between the ballast resistor and the coil. run a new wire if you have to.
thanks for the reply but Like posted above..''I unhooked the wire going to the top on the coil so i know there is no short from the resistor to that.'' (the coil)

Sorry I misread your original post. Like Dell said it is made to get hot. Does the tractor start?
 
(quoted from post at 23:02:13 12/17/16)
(quoted from post at 19:50:44 12/17/16) would it surprize you to learn the "infamous" ballast resistor is supposta gitt HOT???......burnie-burnie....The ballast resistor was Ford's trick fer the weak 6-volt batterys that were being sold. BTW, in Ford's MPC (master parts catalog) the battery isn't even listed as 6-volts, just "13-plates". Today, it is known as size-1A. While, there are some obscure advantatges to positive (+) ground, most neubie tractor wannabees install it negative (-) ground, like their 12-volt BelchFire-V8. Either way, the 6-volt starter motor always turns the correct direction, 12-volts just makes it turn faster fer eazier starting. BTW, recommend AutoLite 437 sparkies gapped 0.025. .........HTH, the amazed Dell and sparkie-meister
OK--thanks..i just didn't think it was suppose to get glowing red almost..I'll check a few things out and do a tune up with plugs, points, etc...thanks
I wouldn't do that tune up just yet. It may introduce more problems.
I would try to figure out the current problem first.
If you just put in the new resistor and it hasn't run since then,
is it possible you got a wire hooked up to the wrong post?

That resistor does get hot, but there should be no current going
through it with the wire disconnected from the coil to heat it.
If there is, something is wired wrong or the coil wire got
melted to the manifold etc giving it a path for current to flow.
 
No-it won't start. Acts like it wants to start (like a little sputter) and thats it...I was using it on the driveway. Was running fine. Made a little pop like and cut off...I know it's getting gas , have compression, etc.....I have not changed any wiring or anything on it.. Is the ballast resistor suppose to get that hot where you can see a little red glow almost?
i know its not the wire going from the resistor to the coil shorting out, etc.
 
(quoted from post at 20:32:54 12/17/16) I was typing as you were --please read my post above thanks
Also if i unhook the coil wire and turn the switch on the resistor does not get hot....Its just when it is hooked to the coil.
 
(quoted from post at 23:36:58 12/17/16)
(quoted from post at 20:32:54 12/17/16) I was typing as you were --please read my post above thanks
Also if i unhook the coil wire and turn the switch on the resistor does not get hot....Its just when it is hooked to the coil.
That would make much more sense to me.
Measure the voltage at the top of the coil and turn the engine so
that the points are open. It should read battery voltage with the
points open, roughly have that with them closed.
If the points are not opening because they slipped or the rubbing
block wore off it won't run and will cause the resistor to heat as
well as possibly burning up the coil if the key is left on too long
 
(quoted from post at 20:48:56 12/17/16)
(quoted from post at 23:36:58 12/17/16)
(quoted from post at 20:32:54 12/17/16) I was typing as you were --please read my post above thanks
Also if i unhook the coil wire and turn the switch on the resistor does not get hot....Its just when it is hooked to the coil.
That would make much more sense to me.
Measure the voltage at the top of the coil and turn the engine so
that the points are open. It should read battery voltage with the
points open, roughly have that with them closed.
If the points are not opening because they slipped or the rubbing
block wore off it won't run and will cause the resistor to heat as
well as possibly burning up the coil if the key is left on too long
OK---I'll check that and thanks for all you'll's help..
 
(reply to post at 20:23:44 12/17/16)''quote--
If you just put in the new resistor and it hasn't run since then,
is it possible you got a wire hooked up to the wrong post? quote] The resistor is bolted to two posts behind the dash panel. A wire comes from the switch connects to one post. Then a wire connects to the other post and runs to the top of the coil. It should not matter which wire is on which side of the resistor should it? It's still going through the resistor and the resistor should do it's job if I'm correct? I have not changed ''anything'' else on it since it quit running. Still trouble shooting here...
 
keep yer itchy-twitchy fingers off'n them handy-dandy carbie tweek'ums. They aintchur problem as described. As fer suddenly quiting, thats an electrical problem. And yes, the infamous ballast resistor gitts HOT. (burnie-burnie) And NO, the electrons don't care which end of the resistor they hook too. You kinda care 'cuz wire length maybe an issue. Most of the time wires just kinda fall into place unless yer installing a completely new wiring harness. And surprizingly enuff, the 4-nipple front mount dizzy is designed to have points (0.015) replaced on the kitchen table. Just un-snapple the capple, remove 2-bolts and walk. Installation is the reversal of the removal ...except... finger start the 2-bolts and install the rotor. Rotate the rotor until the OFF-SET drive tang fits the OFF-SET drive slot in the camshaft. Now tighten the 2-bolts. Simple, eh?

Iff'n ya fugged with the carbie, fess-up and I will tell you the eazy way to adjust yer carbie. ..........HTH, the amazed Dell and sparkie-meister
 
(quoted from post at 12:45:42 12/19/16)
Well, your tractor & your money, but replacing a coil isn't normally part of a tune-up.
Thanks for the input and I understand (just like on a car) that replacing the coil is not part of a basic tuneup.. But i've had the tractor for 15+ years and I have never replaced it. The coil does have the ''FORD'' script on top of it and probably original. (do they even make the coils with the Ford script on them anymore?) It could be decades old, who knows. For $20+ dollars I'll change it since i'm there and know what i got. Hope to get another 15 years out of it...
 
Chances are that Ford script coil will have
a much lower internal resistance than any
new one will. Measure them and use the one
with the lowest resistance.
75 Tips
 
OK---got it running. New coil, points, condenser, rotor, cap. Have correct volts at coil. It will start but will not ''rev'' up like it did before just cutting off. Slow idles like it should though. I did not mess with the screw on the side of the Distributor that holds the dist. cap on. The mechanic at the tractor place said that was how you adjust timing and if you didn't loosen that up it would not change the timing. And it did run fine before cutting off. Points set at .015. The carb is adjusted where it was. Its NOT a carb issue. The throttle lever seems to be ''looser'' than it was. Also seems like its running hotter than it did...Has a very little exhaust leak at the manifold/exhaust gasket and see a little sparks coming from there. Not a lot but i don't think there should be any sparks at all should it? Seems like its running hotter than it did but not really overheating. Could it be a governor problem and how do i check that? Or anything else i should check? thanks
 
I'm going to guess you have not read my reply to your other post about setting the timing. The screw does NOT hold the distributor cap on. It holds the plate in place. You remove the screw to turn the plate. Please read my other post.

If you changed the points and regapped them, the timing has changed. That may be your problem. and that's why I told you how to set the timing.

But, the leaky gasket is the likely problem. Look at it; that gasket also serves an=s an intake manifold gasket.

My suggestions are that you set the timing and replace the manifold gasket.

If you plan to replace the gasket, post back & someone here will tell you how to do that.
75 Tips
 

Bruce...quote from me ''I did not mess with the screw on the side of the Distributor that holds the dist. cap on. ''
Was misleading i guess... I should have said the screw on the side that holds one of the ''clips'' that holds the dist. the cap on..
Was the guy at the shop incorrect saying if i didn't loosen that screw the timing would not change??? Was he wrong or not?
I have been reading all your advice and appreciate it but
I took the distributor with me to the tractor shop and the mechanic has worked on tractors or many, many years. So i took it for granite he knew what he was talking about..
Also i was talking about the round Flange gasket/donut gasket where the talipipe connects to he exhaust manifold. Thats where a few sparks are coming from..Not the gasket between the exhaust/intake and block..
Does the tractor have a governor on it?
 
Also---just courious why the timing would change just by changing the points if the plate hasn't been moved..If the screw on the side holds the plate, dist. cap clip on or in place and i didn't loosen it the timing should still be like it was, correct. When it was running fine..
 
" Was the guy at the shop incorrect saying if i didn't loosen that screw the timing would not change???"

If you did not tell him you replaced & regapped the points, then he was correct. But, once you change the point gap, you have changed the timing. That's why you always set the point gap BEFORE you set the timing.

Gap, dwell & timing are all directly related. If you have less gap, you get more dwell. As the gap decreases, timing retards.

If you set the points correctly, and the timing is correct, then spark will occur when # 1 is at TDC on the frontmount.

First, check your firing order. It's 1-2-4-3, CCW. It's very easy to cross 2 & 3 at the cap & 3 & 4 on the head.

Yes, it has a governor & no, that's not your problem.

But, if you want to check it, see tip # 14.

Pull the distributor, recheck the gap & set the timing.

There is no donut gasket at between the manifold and exhaust pipe. That's not your problem.

But, if you want to fix it........

This method of attaching the exhaust pipe to the manifold was developed for the Model A Ford in 1927. If you pay attention to what you are doing, it will not leak. You do not need tinfoil or gasket sealer to prevent leaks. Use the correct parts & install them correctly & it will not leak.

Make sure you are using the correct clamp. An automotive muffler c-clamp will not work. You need a clamp made for the N. If you have the correct clamp, it has a top & bottom. Make sure you have the clamp on correctly; check out tip # 8, below. All clamps are not created equally; the correct clamp should have 9/16 brass nuts.

Slide the tail pipe into the hanger clamp & then place the end of the exhaust pipe against the manifold. Look at it! Remember, the pipe will most always fit snugly to the OEM manifold w/o any problem, but a replacement manifold will likely not be the exact same size as the OEM manifold, so you will have some work to do. If it does not mate all the way around, put a broomstick down the pipe & into the manifold & gently bend the pipe until both surfaces mate snugly & squarely. If the exhaust pipe flange is bent, you will never get a good seal; check it out. The clamp is not a gasket; if the pipe & manifold do not mate tightly, it will leak. Do not try & hold the exhaust pipe against the manifold w/ your hand & while you tighten the clamp. Get out your floor jack & a block of wood; put the jack under the pipe to hold it tightly against the manifold. Confirm that the pipe is mated squarely to the manifold; if it is crooked, it will not seat. With the pipe jacked snugly and squarely to the manifold use your ? lb ball peen hammer and tap the pipe tight to the manifold flange all the way around. Its soft metal and this will only take about a minute. Tighten the clamp. (Don't get carried away w/ the jack or you will bend the pipe. Or, overtighten the clamp & snap it in two. BTDT). Put equal pressure on the clamp by tightening one side a few turns then a few turns on the other. Do not expect the clamp sides to touch; about 1/8? gap is normal.

When the clamp is tightened equally on both sides, remove the jack. If the pipe flops around, start over because you put the clamp on upside down. (Remember tip # 8)

Post back w/ results or more questions.
75 Tips
 
''If you did not tell him you replaced & regapped the points, then he was correct. But, once you change the point gap, you have changed the timing. That's why you always set the point gap BEFORE you set the timing.''
I bought the new points right there from him so I'm pretty sure he knew i was going to change the points.. He said that the timing would not change if i didn't loosen up the screw holding on the one dist. clip. And i guess holds the plate like you said..
I double checked the point gap...015..on all lobes to make sure there was none worn down..
I can pull it back out to double check the timing the way it's say in the post you put up..I'll have to read that a few times..
I've got good at taking it out..I can do it in like 2 minute's..
 
(quoted from post at 19:00:27 12/21/16) ''If you did not tell him you replaced & regapped the points, then he was correct. But, once you change the point gap, you have changed the timing. That's why you always set the point gap BEFORE you set the timing.''
I bought the new points right there from him so I'm pretty sure he knew i was going to change the points.. He said that the timing would not change if i didn't loosen up the screw holding on the one dist. clip. And i guess holds the plate like you said..
I double checked the point gap...015..on all lobes to make sure there was none worn down..
I can pull it back out to double check the timing the way it's say in the post you put up..I'll have to read that a few times..
I've got good at taking it out..I can do it in like 2 minute's..

Good. Don't forget to check the firing order too. Uh
 
(reply to post at 20:25:20 12/21/16)
OK, i know the firing order is correct...

Before i pull this dist. ''again'' and start a new thread on just this subject/running problem this is why I'm asking again..

If i did not loosen up the plate and move it, even though i changed the points, how could the timing be off that much to run like crap?

I know you said gap, etc. has a relation to do with timing..BUT
The points slid over a post (as i'm sure you know) on the plate. The position they were removed is where they will be when new ones installed. agree? Beside gap..and it was .015 before and is .015 now.

Even if the points are off .001 either way seems it would not affect the dist. timing that much and i don't think it would run like it is.

I did replace the points one time before about 5 years ago and never reset the dist. timing like suggested and run fine. (maybe i got lucky).

You said ''it's not the governor''.. why do you eliminate that possibility?

And thanks for your time/help with this...Jim
 
We are dealing w/ diagnosing a problem of a mechanical device over the internet. By it's very nature, that requires detailed communication to overcome the fact that I can't see or hear the tractor. So, when you said you changed the points & did not set the timing, and described symptoms that could be timing related, I suggested that you set the timing. But, with further information you subsequently provided, a point gap of .015 before replacing the points & not moving the plate and setting the gap at .015 would result in very little if any change in the timing.

So, lets start over.

The one way that I have found to solving engine problems is to take a systematic, step-by-step approach to solving the problem, working from most likely to least likely. The trick to fixing these tractors (or trouble shooting any piece of equipment) is to be systematic about it. You need to isolate the problem step by step and work from most likely to least likely. Jumping ahead to 'so-and-so said it could be whatever' or just replacing parts usually just wastes your time and your money. I know it did for me.

You had a no spark problem on a front distributor. You worked on the distributor & now you have spark but performance problems.

Right?

You did not work on the governor & it's highly unlikely that it just went bad.

Agree?

So, the most likely cause of the problem you've described is firing order.

It could also be an advance problem (see my comment about the screws on the points hanging up on the advance weights)

I'm still thinking you have a spark issue. But, notice I'm not ruling out fuel. Just make sure you do NOT have a spark issue BEFORE you move on to the less likely but possible fuel problem.
75 Tips
 
Haven't mess with it this morning but talked to the tractor place/mechanic. He said it's not out of timing (if at all) enough to keep it from revving up..I agree..

Correct--He said if you open the throttle at the carb manual it bypasses the governor. Done that yesterday...so it's not the governor..

He said to disconnect the breather at the carb to see if it's getting enough air. That the breather/element or whatever can get stopped up..going to check that...


Update to follow........
 
Bruce, i totally understand about helping someone over the net...Not like being there.. I'll check the breather thing and see what happens from there...And thanks for the help.
 
(quoted from post at 08:14:06 12/22/16) Haven't mess with it this morning but talked to the tractor place/mechanic. He said it's not out of timing (if at all) enough to keep it from revving up..I agree..

Correct--He said if you open the throttle at the carb manual it bypasses the governor. Done that yesterday...so it's not the governor..

He said to disconnect the breather at the carb to see if it's getting enough air. That the breather/element or whatever can get stopped up..going to check that...


Update to follow........

Bruce i was typing when you posted this...I will take your advice on things you mentioned also...thanks
 
Bruce--quote ''It could also be an advance problem (see my comment about the screws on the points hanging up on the advance weights)

Maybe i overlooked it but i could not find this comment about this and what to do or check. I have the distributor back off..since it is off i will check that and try to figure how to check the timing like you said also...I do have a FO-4 manual..

Also took the intake hose off at the carb...didn't help, eliminates breather..

Also took off carb and rebuilt---no help.

Checked wiring order again and put in new plugs---no help..

One thing I read on your 75 list was about the governor. i have to open up the throttle almost 3/4 at least before it start moving the lever at the governor..seems by what i read that is not working right. If i manual do the throttle by hand at the carb it should rev. like that if all else is good, correct?

Lastly i'm about ready to burn this POS..or sell it for parts...LOL
Jim
 
(quoted from post at 14:47:53 12/22/16)
Thanks but i know the firing order is correct..i have checked it like 5 times---1243---also know the wires are going to the right plug.

Think a compression test may be in order...
 
The advance weights are under the points plate. Remove the hold down screw & the large C clip & take the plate out. Then remove the entire shaft w/ the weights. Make sure the move freely. Look at the points screws & make sure they do not hit the weights. (if you did not change the screws, it should not be a problem)

Once again, if the tractor was running ok before your resistor heated up, I do not think you've got a governor problem causing the tractor to run poorly now.
75 Tips
 
(reply to post at 15:55:03 12/22/16)
We'll Yeah, i agree. It's probably not the problem....especially since it was running right along and just cut off.
Been working on cars/tractors for 45+ years so know a little about the mechanics of an engine. That's one reason why this thing has got me frustrated....
LOL---On the positive (+) comment side I'm still going to check compression to see where each cylinder is.....won't hurt..
And see about setting that dist. timing and check advance weights (which it's probably not that either).
And go from there--
 
Quote--''Once again, if the tractor was running ok before your resistor heated up, I do not think you've got a governor problem causing the tractor to run poorly now. ''

To clarify about the resistor...
I broke the resistor when i was checking out the wiring, etc..when it first cut off just scraping the driveway...
There was probably nothing wrong with the resistor either..
Until i broke it.. I broke the ceramic messing with it.
 
I started this thread with......
''Resistor to ignition getting hot---9N ford''
I was talking about the new resistor..not the one i broke..
Seems there suppose to get ''hot'' to a point.
Hotter than i expected anyway...
 
I have reread all of your posts . My GUESS is your point gap is off . Incorrect gap can let it run at low speeds and miss as the rpm's increase . Also your spark should easily jump a 1/4" gap on a spark plug that has been removed .
 
(quoted from post at 18:53:40 12/22/16) I have reread all of your posts . My GUESS is your point gap is off . Incorrect gap can let it run at low speeds and miss as the rpm's increase . Also your spark should easily jump a 1/4" gap on a spark plug that has been removed .
Hello---I have the distributor right here by me and gap is .015 (on all high lobes)
I do need to run some very light sandpaper between them or i even heard a dollar bill to clean them...May be something on them..
Also funny you mention the spark thing..I put that on my list for tomorrow. Hoping i see a bright blue spark..Should of checked that today when i changing spark plugs, rebuilding the carb, etc..
Thanks for the input..
 
(quoted from post at 18:53:40 12/22/16) I have reread all of your posts . My GUESS is your point gap is off . Incorrect gap can let it run at low speeds and miss as the rpm's increase . Also your spark should easily jump a 1/4" gap on a spark plug that has been removed .
Also it really not a miss to me at higher RPM's---or lower
There is really no backing firing, popping, etc.
It just doesn't want to rev up like it did when you accelerate it...
I know its a tractor and not going to twist up like a car motor so to speak but it did rev a lot faster and higher before it just ''shut off'..
 

don't use sandpaper. a piece of brown paper bag or a dollar bill are good choices.
 
(quoted from post at 08:13:00 12/23/16)
(quoted from post at 19:11:25 12/22/16)
don't use sandpaper. a piece of brown paper bag or a dollar bill are good choices.
10-4...

Clean'em even if it takes sand paper and flush them clean.... If for nuttin else it will eliminate possible dirty contacts that paper will not clean off BTDT.

Dirty NEW contacts seams to be more problematic in the last 5 years why I dunno unless it has to do with shelf life. I have rubbed 100's of set with sandpaper and never seen were it affected them unless they were just that burnt/worn.

You should have removed the points plate and cleaned it and the dist body were they contact its part of the return path back to ground... The circuit is not complete with out a good ground.
 
(quoted from post at 19:43:03 12/22/16) Will clean up good when checking out the timing/weights advance thing. thanks
OK----took the points, etc. out of the dist.....
Removed plate (that they could of machined with a .001 less tolerance to get out)
Now when i look a the weights (2) they are free..
There is plate under the weights that has two slots in them...
I have not researched it yet but seems to me the knobs on the bottom of the weights should be in the slots...which they weren't..
Also one weight has a lot of slop in it like a bushings worn..
Have not checked but figuring they can be replaced......
Don't know 100% sure this is my problem but a good possibility..
 
(quoted from post at 12:19:01 12/23/16)
(quoted from post at 19:43:03 12/22/16) Will clean up good when checking out the timing/weights advance thing. thanks
OK----took the points, etc. out of the dist.....
Removed plate (that they could of machined with a .001 less tolerance to get out)
Now when i look a the weights (2) they are free..
There is plate under the weights that has two slots in them...
I have not researched it yet but seems to me the knobs on the bottom of the weights should be in the slots...which they weren't..
Also one weight has a lot of slop in it like a bushings worn..
Have not checked but figuring they can be replaced......
Don't know 100% sure this is my problem but a good possibility..
ot going to account to hot resistor or burnt coil, for sure, but yes those
'nubs' are supposed to be in the slots. Surprised it runs at all.
 
Thanks but I'm way past the hot resistor and never was a burnt coil.
The weights are really sloppy on the posts.
One weight will just fall out of the slot there so much slop..
Guy at the parts place says i need to buy whole new dist. shaft, weights, etc. one unit..It's about 70.00.
Anyone got a good used one that's ''not'' wore out they what to sell?
Or where the best place to get one at the best price...thanks
 
(quoted from post at 13:03:03 12/23/16)
JMOR---you want to sell one of those?
hose are not mine. From a post by HOBO, showing a correct one and a bad Chicom "copy". Posted to you by me to show relative position of "nubs" to slots. I expect YT and others such as Just*8Ns sell the weigh/cam assembly.
 
(quoted from post at 10:37:13 12/23/16)
(quoted from post at 13:03:03 12/23/16)
JMOR---you want to sell one of those?
hose are not mine. From a post by HOBO, showing a correct one and a bad Chicom "copy". Posted to you by me to show relative position of "nubs" to slots. I expect YT and others such as Just*8Ns sell the weigh/cam assembly.
OK---I'll check with them...thanks for the info...
 

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