Easy or best way to change points. 9N Front mount dist.

Do i really need to take off the hood, etc. to change the points, condenser, etc. on my 9N. with the front mount distributor? Can just the radiator be removed to do it? I know it would be a pain can it be done without removing the hood/radiator, etc.? How have you done it and whats the best or easiest way? thanks
 
Best way to change the points on a front mounted distributor?

1). Take an anxiety pill before you start.
2). Hire it done.
3). Buy a Farmall
4). Turn the tractor into lawn art.
5). Scrap it.

Seriously, I have had all of the above thoughts the many times I had to work on the front mount distributor, dropping a screw,
trying to get the feeler gage in there and set the points, etc. That was until an old tech guy from Ford showed me the easy way.
Take off the distributor, fix it and put it back on. Two bolts and a gasket. Now I have no problem taking on that job. Just
make sure you note the position of the cam and the distributor, but if memory serves, it can only go on one way. Stuff a rag in
the opening so that a mouse doesn't go into engine; on a 8n engine rebuild I found a mouse skeleton in the oil sludge of the
pan.

Good luck!
 
rons right just take it off, 2 bolts, note which bolt came out of which hole! 1 wire, install new parts while at the bench, kitchen table ect and put it back on, it will only go on 1 way the tang in the rotor is wedge shaped, pay attention to how the parts came off
 
The whole distributor comes off with two bolts.
Points and timing are set on the bench.
Then bolt it back on. It only goes in one way without breaking it.
 
Just remove the distributor and put it in the bench vise. No need
to remove the hood or radiator. The distributor lugs are offset
and will only match up with the slots in the cam one way.You can't
put the distributor on wrong unless you force it and break it.

It is easier to remove the distributor. If you remove the coil and
distributor cap first. You can mark the wires with tape to make it
easier where they go. Before you remove the distributor. Note
where the rotor is pointing. Put the distributor back on with the
rotor pointing the same way as it was when you took it off.

After you install and gap the new points. Be sure to clean the
contacts by running a dollar bill or heavy paper between them.
 
Thanks for all the help everybody. I didn't know you could just pull the Dist. out...I'll mark the rotor button to make sure it point back where it is when removed. And do the other things suggested. Will ask since two bolts hold it in i guess it will be timed where it's suppose to be when installed back? Not like a car where you can change the degrees/advance so to speak..
 

Did you get the tractor running yet? Last we heard, you hadn't. Because, if it isn't running you're just asking for more problems by fixing something that isn't broken. Royse gave you good advice: " I wouldn't do that tune up just yet. It may introduce more problems. I would try to figure out the current problem first."

And, you really do need to see tip # 39. A set of manuals will save you a lot of time, trouble & expense. Even a toaster comes with a manual; you have a 65+ year old tractor that has some unique characteristics.

As others are telling you, the front distributor was designed to come off of the tractor to replace/adjust the points. To do this, remove the wire on the coil, remove the coil bail, remove the distributor cap & take the two bolts off. The base of the distributor has an offset tang & can only go back one way unless you really force it on.

The first thing you need to check is bushing wear. If the shaft has any sideways movement AT ALL, the bushings must be replaced. (see below)

Next, look at how the points & condenser are set in the distributor before you start pulling it down! Turn the tang & observe how the points open & close. If this is your first time doing it, draw a sketch! Make sure you are using quality points. I use only Wells, Blue Streak or Echlin brand points (* see below). Be careful not to ground the tip of the condenser wire to the body of the distributor when you replace the points. Do not break the little copper strip that go to the points. (If you do, make another out of the old set of points). Also, make sure the condenser wire does not go through the same opening in the distributor as the coil pig tail. The condenser wire goes through the opening on the top right.

Look at the old points; are they burned, pitted or misaligned? Check the point gap, .015 on all four lobes. Make sure the blade is at a perfect right angle to the points. You want to feel just the slightest bit of drag when you pull the blade through the points. Set the points on the high side of the cam and ensure they align correctly. Make sure you have the star washers under the screws on the points. If you need to replace the 8-32 X .19 fillister head screws, ensure that the new screws do not interfere with the advance weights. Dress the points by running a piece of card stock or a brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. And, don?t forget to lube the rubbing block w/ cam lube; not Vaseline, not bearing grease, but cam lube (** see below).

If you are using quality points and cannot get the gap to open to .015, chances are you need to replace the bushings.

Now, set the timing. Get a meter or test light, a 21/64? drill bit (*** see below) & a metal straight edge. Put the distributor face down w/ the condenser on the left & the timing plate lock screw on the bottom. Look at the end of the shaft: it has a narrow side & a wide side. Make sure you can tell the difference. Now, place the drill bit in the bottom mounting hole (this will be your reference point for measuring). Next, place a straight edge on the wide side of the tang on the shaft as shown in fig. FO83 in the picture. Rotate the shaft CCW (as viewed from rotor side OR CW as viewed from back/tang side) until the straight edge is ?" beyond the outside edge of the drill bit you stuck in the distributor mounting hole. At this distance, the distributor points should start to open (get your meter/light out now & check). If not, loosen the timing plate lock screw and turn to advance or retard the timing (move the plate down to advance timing, up to retard). Remember, each one of those little hash marks represents about 4? of timing. Keep adjusting until you get the proper ?" setting. (if the plate won?t move, you might need to remove the big C clip to loosen it a bit) As you?re adjusting, eliminate backlash by turning the shaft backwards (CW as viewed from the front) and bring the shaft forward (CCW as viewed from the front) to measure your setting. This ?" setting will get you static timing at top dead center.

After you set the points & timing, do a continuity check before you put the distributor back on the tractor. Before you start, make sure your meter/light works.

With the distributor still off the tractor, follow these steps:

1. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other on both sides of the open points. On the side closest to the cam, you should have continuity. Not on the other side! If you do, you will also have continuity everywhere because the points are grounded.

2. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity! Now, rotate the tang on the distributor....as the points open & close, you have continuity (closed) and lose it when they open.

3. Put the coil on the distributor, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other on the cam side of the open points. You should have continuity!

4. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity!

At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil misaligned trying to put it back together, one piece at a time. The result is something gets broken or you get a ?no spark? problem.

It's possible to put it back on wrong & break it. Look at the slot on the end of the cam shaft. Whatever angle it happens to be, turn the distributor tang to match it. Make sure you can tell the wide side from the narrow side on both the cam & distributor! (close counts). Place the distributor on the front of the engine, gently push it in place & slowly turn the distributor body until you feel the tang slip into the slot. Rotate the distributor body until the bolt holes line up. Hand tighten the two bolts until the distributor body is flush with the timing gear cover.

Double-check your firing order & plug wires. It?s 1-2-4-3, counterclockwise. It?s very easy to cross 3 & 4.

And finally, do not forget to remove the distributor on an annual basis (more often, depending on use) to check the point gap and re-lube the cam.

* NAPA part numbers:

? Points: FD-6769X
? Condenser: FD-71
? Rotor: FD-104
? Cap: FD-126

** Distributor cam lube:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=ECH+ML1&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&Dn=0&D=ECH+ML1&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0

** Distributor cam lube
http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/subcategory__10151_-1_10651_11340

*** Rather than the drill bit, a jig made by Dan Allen (The Old Hokie) will make this task quicker & more accurate.http://windyridgefarm.us/

**** Unscrew the plate hold down screw & remove the C clip to get the plate out. Remove the shaft & weights. The weights should freely move.

There are three ways to replace the bushings in a front distributor:

1. Buy new bushings (part numbers 9N12120 front & 18-12132 rear). Press out the old ones, press in the new ones and ream to fit. CAUTION: do not try this unless you have a press & know how to use it. If you break the base, a new one costs $130. If you bend the tower which holds the front bushing, a new plate will cost you $30.

2. Take the new bushings and distributor to your local machine shop.

3. Send the distributor out for bushing replacement if you do not have a local machine shop.

Make sure your distributor isn?t worn out; check the wear parts with a micrometer and compare what you have to the factory specs (below).

Factory Specs:

Shaft top .4367 / .4370
Shaft Bottom .8625 / .8630
Cam Flats .789 / .791
Cam Lobes .869 / .871
Base Tang .177 / .178
75 Tips
 
" Will ask since two bolts hold it in i guess it will be timed where it's suppose to be when installed back? Not like a car where you can change the degrees/advance so to speak."

No.

See my previous post.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 11:00:33 12/18/16) " Will ask since two bolts hold it in i guess it will be timed where it's suppose to be when installed back? Not like a car where you can change the degrees/advance so to speak."

No.

See my previous post.
75 Tips
No i haven't got it running yet...I have not messed with it since yesterday...I need to start over from the beginning on the trouble shooting etc. Do my research on the advice and start from square one. If/when i get to the point of changing the coil, points, etc. i want to have my ducks line up.. and thanks for the help everyone...I will follow up with this in the next few days..
 
" I need to start over from the beginning on the trouble shooting etc. "

Yep, I agree.

Get your parts here or from nnalert's; never TSC.

Post back w/ results or more questions.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 11:08:29 12/18/16) " I need to start over from the beginning on the trouble shooting etc. "

Yep, I agree.

Get your parts here or from nnalert's; never TSC.

Post back w/ results or more questions.
75 Tips

OK---you'll guy are great. thanks
 
Bruce---I see your in Virginia...I am also. Are you far from Harrisonburg, Va.? I live about 15 miles from there. Read how to set up the distributor timing etc. Would need to read that a few times to fully understand..LOL.. Would be glad to pay someone close to help set it up. I can bring it to you...Believe i can handle the rest..
 
I'm in Old Church, Hanover Co. If you want to bring me the distributor & parts, I'll set the timing, etc.

NAPA points (Bluestreak or Echlin), etc, work fine.

Email should be open.
 
(quoted from post at 11:32:02 12/18/16) I'm in Old Church, Hanover Co. If you want to bring me the distributor & parts, I'll set the timing, etc.

NAPA points (Bluestreak or Echlin), etc, work fine.

Email should be open.
Wish, your were closer. I'm over in the Shenandoah Valley. Your probably about 2 hours or more away..If i can't figure it out I'll take to a local tractor place here that works on them...Thanks very much for the offer to help anyway...Jim
 
You're welcome.

If the bushings are ok and you use good points, it will be easy. Get the timing jig from The Old Hokie & it will be even easier.
 
For best results , before reinstalling the distributor , verify with a test meter or test light that the points are actually opening and closing . They might look good but not actually opening and closing the circuit .

Since hooking up a dwell meter is not a practical option you need to carefully set the points gap or it may run rough . You will also need to set the timing . Do you have an FO-4 manual ?

You also need to lube the rubbing block or you may be back into the distributor in a month or two .

Rarely is one lobe worn but check your points gap on all four lobes while it is on the bench . Check your bushings ( front and rear ) since sloppy bushing can affect the points gap .

If you are using the correct voltage resistance for your coil , your points will last a reasonable amount of time .
 
Just wanted to add the NAPA numbers for ECHLIN brand points (front mount) is CS35 and the cam lube is ML1. You get a little squeeze tube of lube in the kit with the points.

-Tim
 

[i:454649c1b2][b:454649c1b2]"If you are using the correct voltage resistance for your coil , your points will last a reasonable amount of time ."[/b:454649c1b2][/i:454649c1b2]

maybe i'm just very lucky, but i've been running 12 volts on my 2N with a 6 volt coil and no added ballast resistor (just the OEM). i have had the tractor 5 years now. no telling how old the points were when i got it, but i haven't changed them yet, in spite of the lack of an added ballast resistor, and the tractor starts and runs well.
 
(quoted from post at 14:15:34 12/21/16) I got it running but not like it should...UPDATE ON MY OTHER POST on here...thanks
Also THANKS for the advice how to just remove the Dist. to do the tune up parts swap..wasn't that bad at all..
 

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