Does not start

I have a new battery and have cleaned all cables. The starter turns slowly and stops. The battery cables get hot. What should I check or repair on my 9N.[/b]
 
Battery cables should not get hot. Hot cables indicate high resistance.

What size are the cables? You cannot use auto parts store AWG 4 cables designed for 12 volt automobiles in a 6V system.

Dean
 
(quoted from post at 11:22:03 12/01/16) I have a new battery and have cleaned all cables. The starter turns slowly and stops. The battery cables get hot. What should I check or repair on my 9N.[/b]
THE OLD BATTERY WORE DOWN SO i FIGURED IT NEEDED REPLACING. iT WAS A OLD 6 VOLT BATTERY, i REPLACED IT AND HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO START. THE CABLES ARE AT LEAST 20 YEARS OLD.
 
If the cables get hot they are defective and/or improperly sized. They almost certainly need replacing. Still need to know what size the cables are.

Dean
 
hey Dick..........yer 6-volt battery cables shuld bee as thick a yer thumb, NOT skinny like yer little pinkie. Most auto store replacement cables are SKINNY 12-volt cables and kenn NOT supply enuff AMPS to turn yer starter over fast enuff, thats WHY they gitt HOT. 2nd tip...loosen yer 2-screws and slide yer starter motor out so you kenn SANDPAPER the GAP fer better GROUND then re-tighten the 2-screws. Them skinny screws kent carry enuff 6-volt current fer good startin' even with a NEW battery. BTW, yer 2N/9N came from the factory POSITIVE (+) ground. Many newbie tractor mechanic wanna-bees hook'em-up negative (-) ground like their BelchFire-V8. Surprizing enuff, yer starter motor don't care positive or negative ground, it'll always turn the correct direction to start yer motor. Yer sparkies only semi-care, modern sparkies are so much better than 1939 Champions. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. .......HTH, Dell, yer sparkie-meister
 
I'm late here, but do a voltage drop test on your cables. It may be a starter going out. Did you replace the battery because of this?
 
(quoted from post at 05:53:02 12/03/16) I'm late here, but do a voltage drop test on your cables. It may be a starter going out. Did you replace the battery because of this?

I replaced the old battery because I thought it wore down. I charged it and still had no power to start. It may just have been the same problem. I thought the battery was bad though.
 
There are a few ways to check a battery
before you buy one that you don't need. See
tip # 49.

You probably need new cables. And clean
grounds. I'd do that before I pulled the
starter to have it checked.
75 Tips
 
I thought the battery was bad though.

I usually check the acid level and fully charge a battery then get a volt reading , come back the next morning and see if has dropped much , IE if it is 12.5 when I leave and 11.2 in the morning then its going to need replaced . ( some idea on a 6v ) I have never seen a battery that had acid lower than the plates get filled up and work properly after .

Most big auto parts stores will load test your battery for free .

The rule in / out the starter before buying another one , see Bruce's tip # 43
 

9. If the engine cranks too slow to start, the problem may be caused by:

A) engine problems.
B)a faulty neutral start switch.
C) an open relay in the control circuit.
D) a damaged pinion gear.

Pick one we will talk about it...

Not the first place I would start but a EZ check,,, sorry I don't have a tip list...
 
Richard: Like the others have said. If the cable are getting hot there is too much resistance someplace. If when sitting in the seat, clutch depressed the starter is turning slow the cables may be defective (wouldn't be the first time that happened), Starter going bad or simply bad connections. The bad connection problem is easy and cheap to fix. Clean and tighten them. Cables slightly more expensive. Even the starter isn't terrible expensive.

Phil: Test power to the points. Power to the coil but not the points indicates a faulty wire from the coil to the points or a bad coil. If you have power to the points: Take a piece of paper and turn the engine until the points are closed. Push the points open enough to get the paper between them, let the point close and then pull the paper out. This will clean the "invisible dirt" that may cause the points to malfunction. Check spark at the coil wire. Spark there but not to the plug wires indicates either bad car, rotor or wire. That's providing that everything was installed correctly to start with. I've seen more than one guy forget to install the rotor button.

Rick
 
(quoted from post at 22:21:54 12/05/16) Richard: Like the others have said. If the cable are getting hot there is too much resistance someplace. If when sitting in the seat, clutch depressed the starter is turning slow the cables may be defective (wouldn't be the first time that happened), Starter going bad or simply bad connections. The bad connection problem is easy and cheap to fix. Clean and tighten them. Cables slightly more expensive. Even the starter isn't terrible expensive.

Phil: Test power to the points. Power to the coil but not the points indicates a faulty wire from the coil to the points or a bad coil. If you have power to the points: Take a piece of paper and turn the engine until the points are closed. Push the points open enough to get the paper between them, let the point close and then pull the paper out. This will clean the "invisible dirt" that may cause the points to malfunction. Check spark at the coil wire. Spark there but not to the plug wires indicates either bad car, rotor or wire. That's providing that everything was installed correctly to start with. I've seen more than one guy forget to install the rotor button.

Rick

You let me down I knew for sure you were going to tell'em to do a starter current draw test... :cry:

I understand its EZ to fall for the most likely patterned answer...
If you hang out here it will trip you every now and again you will dumb yourself down if you are not careful...

You are far far away you can not put your hands on it the poster is your hands and eyes what info would you like to ask the poster
before you make a educated response...
 
And you let us down by trying to carry on in your childish manner by bring another conversation over here. I mean shouldn't you be trying to help this guy? Or are you now going to out for me now because I dared to disagree with you?

For the OP, sorry that Hobo decided to ignore your problems and try to target me on your thread.

Got anything figured out yet?

Rick
 
Quick tests:

If you jump bat to starter bypassing relay ( in neutral ) any difference?

Any difference with booster cables hooked up from your truck?

Lastly, 2 volt tests:
hookup a voltmeter, put one lead into wire at starter transfer bar, and one at bat hot. Try to start, what does vm say.

Next, vm across bat, what's it go down to when cranking.
 

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