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Convert from 12 volt to 6 volt

F

FLAman

Member
Recently purchased a 1948 8N that has been converted to 12 volts. I want to restore the tractor to original. There's plenty of info on going from 6 to 12 volts but I haven't found anything about 12 to 6 volts. What do I need to check/change?

Thanks,
Rick L.
 
Is your intent to return the tractor to it's original condition?

If not, get a 6v alternator. Maybe the one you have can be converted. Then, all you will need is a battery & bulbs.

Otherwise, you will need a battery, bulbs, wiring harness, battery cables, generator & a v/r.

You may or may not need a coil depending on how the ignition circuit was wired. If it's a 12 volt coil, you will need a 6 volt coil.
75 Tips
 
You will a generator, voltage regulator and wiring harness and mounting brackets for whatever tractor you have. If it has a 12 volt coil, that will have to be replaced also. Battery cables may be too small for 6 volts. if changed to a voltmeter you will need an ammeter. If it has lights on it they will need to be changed also.
good luck
 
Welcome to the forum.
The guys have you covered on what you'll need.

I have a generator you can have if you want to pay the
shipping from Michigan. Should fit in a large flat rate box.
It worked when it was on the tractor.
Been setting on a shelf in the garage for 5 or 6 years.

I also have some other stuff you may be interested in.
6V light bulbs, a new in the package wiring harness, etc.
If you're interested email me - RoyseTractors at gmail.com
 
If you GOOGLE or BING JMOR's Wiring Diagrams or go to the 'other' Ford N Tractor web site, you can view and download his pictograms for free. Email is open if you need the web site link.

I just had an original '48 Ford Tractor generator rebuilt and have the correct voltage regulator for it as well. The package is complete with the VR mounting plate and the generator tensioning arm needed for the early 8N generators using the front mount distributor. If Royse can't help you, let me know.

Your early 8N electrical system is a 6-volt/positive ground set up. It uses a good AG 6-volt battery, (Interstate or DEKA are good reliable brands; correct wiring; OEM ballast resistor; 6-volt coil; -30/+30 amp induction (loop) ammeter; OEM key switch; 6-volt/3-wire/3-brush generator; and a 6-volt starter with solenoid. Lights were dealer accessories, but if you have now, and lamps are 12-volt, a 6-volt battery will illuminate them but will be dimmer. Not true if vice versa- 6-volt lamps will smoke out if 12 volts applied to them. The gen mounting plate has a pre-fabbed hole for the light switch. Wiring lights is important -DO NOT WIRE thru the ignition switch -JMOR's pictograms will show the correct way.

Many of us recommend getting some useful manuals for your N...I&T F04 is like a Bible. Parts supplier Dennis Carpenter repops many of the old N-Series parts, as well as selling some new TISCO stuff. Most Ford Tractor supply houses buy his repos and also sell them but at a higher percentage markup. I'd advise staying away from the low-budget, cheaper supply companies out there.


FORD8NMANUALS-REQUIRED_zps59fa6cd1.jpg

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
(quoted from post at 17:03:00 12/01/16) Welcome to the forum.
The guys have you covered on what you'll need.

I have a generator you can have if you want to pay the
shipping from Michigan. Should fit in a large flat rate box.
It worked when it was on the tractor.
Been setting on a shelf in the garage for 5 or 6 years.

I also have some other stuff you may be interested in.
6V light bulbs, a new in the package wiring harness, etc.
If you're interested email me - RoyseTractors at gmail.com
Click to expand...

Sent you an email.
 
(quoted from post at 06:24:30 12/02/16) If you GOOGLE or BING JMOR's Wiring Diagrams or go to the 'other' Ford N Tractor web site, you can view and download his pictograms for free. Email is open if you need the web site link.

I just had an original '48 Ford Tractor generator rebuilt and have the correct voltage regulator for it as well. The package is complete with the VR mounting plate and the generator tensioning arm needed for the early 8N generators using the front mount distributor. If Royse can't help you, let me know.

Your early 8N electrical system is a 6-volt/positive ground set up. It uses a good AG 6-volt battery, (Interstate or DEKA are good reliable brands; correct wiring; OEM ballast resistor; 6-volt coil; -30/+30 amp induction (loop) ammeter; OEM key switch; 6-volt/3-wire/3-brush generator; and a 6-volt starter with solenoid. Lights were dealer accessories, but if you have now, and lamps are 12-volt, a 6-volt battery will illuminate them but will be dimmer. Not true if vice versa- 6-volt lamps will smoke out if 12 volts applied to them. The gen mounting plate has a pre-fabbed hole for the light switch. Wiring lights is important -DO NOT WIRE thru the ignition switch -JMOR's pictograms will show the correct way.

Many of us recommend getting some useful manuals for your N...I&T F04 is like a Bible. Parts supplier Dennis Carpenter repops many of the old N-Series parts, as well as selling some new TISCO stuff. Most Ford Tractor supply houses buy his repos and also sell them but at a higher percentage markup. I'd advise staying away from the low-budget, cheaper supply companies out there.


<center><img src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a379/ploughNman/FORD8NMANUALS-REQUIRED_zps59fa6cd1.jpg"></center>

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
Click to expand...

The guy I bought it from is supposed to be sending me the manuals he has. If it doesn't include some of these I will be purchasing them.

I'm talking with a guy on eBay who has an original generator, mounting bracket and voltage regulator that he took off to converter his to 12 volt. I'd like to get parts with "patina" so I can keep the tractor as original paint as possible.

Thanks,
Rick L.

Thanks,
Rick L.
 
Woa, there... the early 8N generator has no 'mounting bracket per say. There is a front bracket that has a bottom hole and that is where the mounting bolt feeds thru. Make sure he isn't trying to sell you a later 8N generator for the side mount distributor -two different animals.
 
Here is what an early 8N generator looks like complete with the tensioning arm. The mounting bolt feeds thru the two bottom holes, shown here on the top as the unit is upside down here. There are no more mounting brackets you speak of. The tensioning arm connects to the generator as shown and the other end bolts to the timing cover/governor housing. there are three wires studs -two on the barrel, one on the back end plate. A 3rd Brush adjustment screw is also on the back. Original would be painted Ford Vermillion Red, black was what some starter/alternator repair shops painted them when you took them there.


8ngentension.jpg

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
(quoted from post at 09:25:57 12/01/16) Recently purchased a 1948 8N that has been converted to 12 volts. I want to restore the tractor to original. There's plenty of info on going from 6 to 12 volts but I haven't found anything about 12 to 6 volts. What do I need to check/change?

Thanks,
Rick L.
Click to expand...
ick..........um? there's a reason these low compression flathead engines are converted to 12-volts 'cuz the 6-volt starter motor spins FASTER fer eazier starting. In 1939, they didn't have 12-volt batterys. I just looked it up in the MPC (master parts catalog) and it labels the battery as 13-plate lead acid battery. Doesn't even call it a 6-volt battery ...or... the modern equivalent 1-A. Only a sphincterly challenged originality authority building a trailer queen would back convert to 6-volts.

Its yer tractor do what ebber you want but don't come pizzin' and moanin' cuz you kant gitter to start. Remember, on 6-volts, ittza 3-rumpas and then a quick pull on the spring loaded choke and it shuld start rite up. Iff'n it don't, you've FLOODED yer sparkies and they won't sparkle. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. Don't throw yer flooded sparkies away, just clean and dry'em one atta time in HOT runnin' engine. (and save'm fer the NEXT time, and there will be a next time) ........HTH, the amazed Dell and sparkie-meister
 
OK, yes, that is an original early 8N (48-50)generator, BUT he has the old 2N generator tensioner strapped on. Don't need it if you have the original 8N tensioning arm I showed in my other post marked with the red arrow. nnalert sells the little arm too if you need one. By the way, this guy is showing/offering the original AUTO-LITE Voltage Regulator too used on the 8Ns. There's no guarantee that it still is good and working. His claim that 'it ran when removed from tractor' is hardly a guarantee. So, if you get it, you may have to purchase a newer Voltage Regulator too. I'd also invest in having it rebuilt while it is off the tractor. Use a good, trusty shop who knows what the GEN is supposed to be set at. My estimate on rebuilds is anywhere from $75 to $125. A new VR will run $50, a tension arm $10 at nnalert. Oh, yeah, there's nothing wrong with wanting the original 6-volt/positive system on your tractor. The setup works fine, even in cold weather, like anything else, you just maintain the system properly and it will cooperate fine. I sent you an email...

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 

I was out pulling the gas tank and radiator to send them out for restoration and I got a better look at the serial number. Seems I missed a digit. Looks like the serial number is really 8N216(?)874 which puts it in the 1949 range. Here's a pic of the serial number:

43048.jpg
 
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