Engine problems on my 9N

Hi guys....
I am a new member on here and I just bought a 9N (I think).
Original owner said that he pulled the threads on the block when he overhauled the engine. I just got the cylinder head off it and ... Yep, one bolt was not tight and it seems all the threads in that one hole is ripped out.
Anyone got a good fix for this?
Thanks.

QcmanjwpI would use a quality thread repair such as TIME-SERT? is a solid bushing insert. This guarantees easy installation and allows for full load use of tapped hole, ensuring protection against stress and vibration.
The next best thing would be a Threadserts brand or a Helicoil brand thread repair.
Timesert

Threadsert

Helicoil

what about the heat that the engine generates when running?

The heat will be no problem,that is what they are designed for.You just need to use a sealer like liquid teflon on the head bolt threads to seal coolant from leaking past the threads.

Helicoil easy fix on a flathead engine and the threads are just as strong as the factory ones possibly stronger

Welcome aboard QCMAN.
I?d bet the farm I know how the threads got stripped out. First, the 9N, 2N, and early 8N models all used studs on the cylinder head -15 short length ones and 3 longer length ones. Later 8Ns began using hex bolts. What a lot of fellas don?t know or understand is that studs are designed with one end having a coarse thread and the other end having a fine thread, defined as NC (or UNC, National Coarse) and NF (or UNF, National Fine). An important rule about cast iron to always remember is any thread will be a coarse thread. It?s an engineering fact due to the inherent properties of cast iron. Thus, the coarse thread, 7/16-14 will fasten INTO the cast iron engine block and the fine thread end will accept the 7/16-20 hex nut. My bet is that someone inserted a stud into the block using the FINE THREAD end and caused the threads to get stripped out. Either that or, since there are 15 short studs and 3 longer studs, and it does matter where they go, a longer stud was inserted into a shallow/blind hole and that too would have caused the threads to get stripped out. I suggest you take the block to a qualified machine shop, and possibly think about doing an overhaul on it since you have it stripped down that far, and get it boiled and cleaned and inspected for cracks too. Let a pro fix it, don?t think you will try to repair it on your own unless you have the proper equipment/tooling and knowledge. A machine shop can also inspect the head for warpage and if need be, machine the face flat with a fly cut. If the block is cracked, or repair costs get prohibitive, an alternative too is to purchase a rebuilt short block and leave the old block to be fixed for a rainy day. My recommendation to you and anyone else new to Ford Tractors is to invest in some necessary manuals and read them religiously. An Operator?s Manual and a Master Parts Catalog are critical to understanding your tractor, with emphasis is on SAFETY ?knowing what not to do for safe operation. One very important manual is the I & T F04 Manual, a pretty basic guide on how to do most repairs on your tractor. All of the original manuals are in reprint and available everywhere and the I&T Company still prints the F04 Repair manual. Dennis Carpenter reproduces many exact-as-original parts for the N-Series Tractor as well as newer TISCO and other brands of parts. nnalert sells them too as well as this site and every other Ford tractor parts supplier but there are cheaper parts sold too so it does matter where and who you buy from.


FORD N-Owner Recommended Library:


Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

(quoted from post at 23:13:47 11/25/16) Hi guys....
I am a new member on here and I just bought a 9N (I think).
Original owner said that he pulled the threads on the block when he overhauled the engine. I just got the cylinder head off it and ... Yep, one bolt was not tight and it seems all the threads in that one hole is ripped out.
Anyone got a good fix for this?
Thanks.

Click to expand...

JMO but offered as food for thought. I would be more than a little skeptical of an engine overhaul done by someone that knowingly put it back together without fixing a stripped head bolt. That's why I am never excited when a seller says "I just overhauled the engine" :idea:

The stripped threads are an easy fix if you are handy with a tap and drill. There are as many different types of inserts as there are stars in the sky. For a DIY'er the solid key locking ones are the easiest and least expensive to use. They install with a standard thread tap and screwdriver. The "helical" type inserts are designed for use where there isn't much "meat" around the hole for going oversize and they won't buy you anything in this application. They also require a special screw thread insert (STI) tap and/or installationtool which add to the cost and are only used for installing the inserts

Here is a link to a good economical source for inserts. If you have ANY doubt about your machinist/metalworker skills let a professional do it for you. The new hole has to be drilled accurately and to size - the threads have to be tapped plumb and square. Paying someone to fix a botched/wallowed out thread repair will only be more expensive....

[u:b6a8aa3d9c]Thread Repair Inserts[/u:b6a8aa3d9c]

TOH

Thanks for the quick replies guys.
I forgot to mention that the engine is still in the chassis. All I did was remove the hood so I can better work on it. I just found out that my tractor is a 2N, built in 1943. S/N is 9N112729. This S/N is the designator for the year built. I understand also that this 2N is still called a 9N in discussion groups.
This tractor was given to me at no cost. It still has the 6 volt system which I think positive post on battery lead goes to ground instead of the negative side.
I'm kind of afraid of the heli-coil type of thread restoring. I did look into that Time-Sert and it seems to be the strongest thread restore I have ever heard of myself and it is very expensive. But my problem would most likely be tapping the threads for the insert so it will be perfectly straight, maybe rent a magnetic base drill unit???
I want to put the head back on it and start it up before I pour more money into it. I want to restore to original shape.
Thanks for your replies.

qcman.........the 2N was Ford's response to WW2 demand fer lead fer bullets (batterys use lead) and copper fer bullet cases (ie...brass) Ford designed the 2N with a magneto ignition system and armstrong (hand crank) starter and as a "bonus" go to raise the price fer more profit. Surprizingly enuff, Ford discontinued the magneto about 6-months later. Biggest problem was RUBBER fer the ag-bar tires. Tanks needed rubber treads. When Ford pointed out the NEED fer tractors to grow FOOD fer the soldiers, they soon got rubber ag-bar tires. Essentually, the 3-speed 2N (fer 1942) continued until the 4-speed 8N (fer 1948) which continued to use the weird 4-nipple front mount dizzy until the 5-nipple side mount in 1950. You kenn count nipples, kant you? While the 2N came from the factory painted mono-chrome industrial GRAY, many have been repainted the more attractive red and grey of the 8N. I say its yer tractor, paint enny color that pleases you EXCEPT green & yellow. I once saw one painted panty pink. (gag) I call fer a 20/20 paint job, looks good at 20-feet. .........the color blind Dell

(quoted from post at 00:37:23 11/27/16) Thanks for the quick replies guys.
I forgot to mention that the engine is still in the chassis. All I did was remove the hood so I can better work on it. I just found out that my tractor is a 2N, built in 1943. S/N is 9N112729. This S/N is the designator for the year built. I understand also that this 2N is still called a 9N in discussion groups.
This tractor was given to me at no cost. It still has the 6 volt system which I think positive post on battery lead goes to ground instead of the negative side.
I'm kind of afraid of the heli-coil type of thread restoring. I did look into that Time-Sert and it seems to be the strongest thread restore I have ever heard of myself and it is very expensive. But my problem would most likely be tapping the threads for the insert so it will be perfectly straight, maybe rent a magnetic base drill unit???
I want to put the head back on it and start it up before I pour more money into it. I want to restore to original shape.
Thanks for your replies.

Click to expand...

You don't need to spend big bucks to fix that hole and the extra money you spend won't buy you anything of value. Here is a perfectly acceptable solid insert that you can get for $7 and it will do everything a $90 Time-Sert will do except empty your wallet. You will need a 33/64 drill bit and a 9/16-13 tap to install it and if you don't already have them they will cost you another $20 or so. A mag drill is overkill for drilling the hole and you still need to run that tap straight. Do it all freehand and just be careful.

7/16-14 x 9/16-12 Self Locking Steel Thread Repair insert

TOH

what is the torque value for the cylinder head nuts on a 1943 2N ?

the manual specs 50 to 55 foot pounds. i've seen some say 60.

I myself use heli-coil inserts, mostly because I have them already. If I didn't I'd most likely go with that Hobo recommended.

As far as drilling goes. The drill will follow the hole most of the time as long as you don't try twisting it. It's harder to get the tap going straight but even that isn't too hard again as Hobo says just be careful and free hand it.

Rick

wow ......... awful high for a 7/16 - 20 thread nut, don't you think?
I figured it to be around 35-45 fp

yes, that's the insert I was looking at also the other day. Will using red Loctite compound be suitable to keep it in place or would you stake it in with a punch on the edge. ?

thanks
Qcman

Hey guys...... this is a great forum to get great answers to tractor problems, and many thanks to TheOldHokie on the thread serts. I ended up installing 3 of those serts. All studs are in and head is re-installed and torqued to 55lb. Started it up and ran it for 10 seconds twice before shutting it back down. Both times I have no oil pressure. That second time I started it I had the oil line off so I can see if oil came out, NOPE. So I pulled the pan, dropped the front main and #1 rod cap. All looks good but was no oil anywhere in the caps. So I bought oil pump repair kit (it was bad I think) and I got that put back together. I'm fixing to install the pump, caps back under there and install the oil pan. I want to start it back up with the new oil pump kit to see if I get oil pressure.

Question: is there anyway to pump oil (prime) thru out the engine before I start it up?

Many thanks guys
qcman