Coil Problems, Resistor Wiring Diag for 6V/12V conversion

I have a 1949 Ford 8N (SN 238175) which I purchased about 10 years ago.

We used this tractor sparingly and about 3-4 years ago while making a food plot with a harrow the tractor seemed to lose power. The tractor died in the middle of the food plot. I think we could get it started again but after a short time it seemed to sputter and loose power.
About the same time I noticed the exhaust manifold had a leak that the previous owner used JB weld to repair....it eventually blew. I don't think this is the issue with the tractor loosing power but I could be wrong.

The previous owner converted the tractor from a 6V generator to a 12V battery / alternator.

Early next week I am headed north for Michigan's deer season and during my visit I would like to get this old tractor running again.
I purchased (online) a new exhaust manifold, gaskets, studs, brass nuts and a tune up kit....spark plugs, condenser, points, etc.

I also plan to install the 3 lights the seller gave me 10+ years ago that I never connected.
The lights that were on the tractor were nice so the seller snipped them off and handed me some cheap ones made in China.
I'm no collector so it didn't matter to me....I just needed a working tractor to help around the cabin ( in the day light ).

When I get to camp next week I plan to...
1.) Check the radiator and add some fluid if needed
2.) Drain the gas ( from the bottom of the carb )
3.) Clean the glass sediment bowl ( assuming it has one )
4.) Replace the exhaust manifold
5.) Replace the plugs ( after I check the gap )
6.) Remove the coil/distributor and take it into the cabin so that I can replace the condenser, points, etc
7.) Connect the 12V battery ( and bring my charger ! )
8.) I suspect I may have had a coil problem 4 years ago so I'm going to check the "Total Resistance of Coil plus all ignition resistors"
9.) Add Fresh gas ( with stable )
10.) Pray
11.) Pray some more
12.) Turn the key on, adjust the throttle, pull the choke and press the start push button.
13.) Take it for a ride.....hopefully and see if it starts to loose power like it did 4 years ago when it warmed up.
14.) Possible replace the coil
15.) Install 3 lights ( made in china )

Please review the attached pictures that I uploaded or at least tried to upload.
1.) Diagram.jpg
2.) DashLabel.jpg
3.) Alternator.jpg
4.) Coil.jpg
5.) BatteryPad.jpg
6.) startersolenoid.jpg
7.) LotsOfWire.jpg

If the pictures didn't upload to YT you can also find them here...

http://photo1.walgreens.com/walgreens/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=29418490001/a=3643366_3643366/otsc=SHR/otsi=SALBlink/COBRAND_NAME=walgreens/


BTW - I'm no mechanic and know little to nothing about motors / electronics so bare with me.......

Questions:
1.) My alternator has 1 wire. Does it look like I have the correct wiring diagram?
2.) Label R1 - Is this the "original" ignition resistor?
3.) Label R2 - Does this mean my tractor is using a 6V coil?
4.) Is there an advantage to use a 12V coil?
5.) Assuming the current coil is a 6V coil and I replace it with a 12V coil do I remove R2 ?
6.) The wiring diagram ( see attached photos ) indicates the "Total Resistance of Coil plus all ignition resistors" should be 3.5 to 4.0 Ohms.
a. Is this true for the 6V coil
b. Is this true for the 12V coil
7.) How do I measure the "Total Resistance of Coil plus all ignition resistors"?
8.) What should the spark plugs gap be?
9.) Is there an easy way to tell if a coil is good / bad?

Thanks !
Walgreens Photos

Let me see if I can help with some of these:

"Questions:
1.) My alternator has 1 wire. Does it look like I have the correct wiring diagram?
Looks right to me, although you may find JMOR's pictograms easier to follow.

2.) Label R1 - Is this the "original" ignition resistor?
Yes

3.) Label R2 - Does this mean my tractor is using a 6V coil?
It means it should be, not that it is.

4.) Is there an advantage to use a 12V coil?
Yes, you wouldn't need R2.

5.) Assuming the current coil is a 6V coil and I replace it with a 12V coil do I remove R2 ?
Yep.

6.) The wiring diagram ( see attached photos ) indicates the "Total Resistance of Coil plus all ignition resistors" should be 3.5 to 4.0 Ohms.
a. Is this true for the 6V coil
b. Is this true for the 12V coil
True for both, which is why you remove R2 for a 12V coil.
Keep in mind that it is an approximation.

7.) How do I measure the "Total Resistance of Coil plus all ignition resistors"?
Disconnect the wires, measure each one individually then add them up.
I would then disconnect only the two end points and measure
the resistance all the way through. That can be a challenge though.

8.) What should the spark plugs gap be?
25 thousandths

9.) Is there an easy way to tell if a coil is good / bad? "
If it measures open, infinite resistance, on the primary side
it is bad. There isn't a good way to tell that one is "good" that
I know of because things change with heat.

Where are you going in Michigan? I'm in central Michigan
and have quite a few N parts you could try if you're close.
Might save you from buying something you don't need.

Your alternator has only one wire
hooked up but it is actually a three wire unit
and that could be your problem...... 8)

(quoted from post at 22:36:08 11/09/16)
Your alternator has only one wire
hooked up but it is actually a three wire unit
and that could be your problem...... 8)

Click to expand...

ust curious how you determined that his is not a one-wire alternator?

(quoted from post at 14:42:16 11/11/16)

(quoted from post at 22:36:08 11/09/16)
Your alternator has only one wire
hooked up but it is actually a three wire unit
and that could be your problem...... 8)

Click to expand...

ust curious how you determined that his is not a one-wire alternator?

Click to expand...

There was a pic on this post when I answered it and I could
see the two tabs for the plug to fit onto ...
unless I'm losin it ...... :?

OK I just looked at the pic link again
it still looks like a three wire alt to me..... :?

Ok....I texted a friend who will be near my cabin this weekend. He
will look for a part # on the alternator.

I just did a little research online.

Seems like tab 1 is for a light so that you know the ignition is on and
you don't fry a coil.

Tab 2 seems connected to an amp meter so you have a more
accurate reading of the system instead of measuring the battery only.

what does a 1 wire alt mean?
- that it had a built in voltage regulator
- that it only had 1 wire

Could a 1 wire alt have more than 1 wire?

Does it really hurt to use a 3 wire alt with 1 wire because it seems like
the other 2 wires simply run s light and amp meters.

(quoted from post at 22:58:28 11/11/16) I just did a little research online.

Seems like tab 1 is for a light so that you know the ignition is on and
you don't fry a coil.

Tab 2 seems connected to an amp meter so you have a more
accurate reading of the system instead of measuring the battery only.

what does a 1 wire alt mean?
- that it had a built in voltage regulator
- that it only had 1 wire

Could a 1 wire alt have more than 1 wire?

Does it really hurt to use a 3 wire alt with 1 wire because it seems like
the other 2 wires simply run s light and amp meters.

Click to expand...

Your understanding of the alternator wiring is not accurate.

A one wire alternator only has one wire off the big stud.
It charges the battery. Through the ammeter so it still works.

That same stud charges the battery on a three wire.
Terminal 1 is for excitation to the alternator.
It needs a light or diode in it so it doesn't back-feed and keep
the tractor running even after you shut the key off.

Terminal two is "sense" voltage to tell the alternator how
much it should be charging with varying loads, like lights.

Both have internal voltage regulators.

Neither will keep your tractor from running.
They simply charge the battery when it is running.

Got it. Thanks.

I'm thinking its a self exciting alt that may need to be excited because
it's been sitting a long time.

I'll run to autozone and get the stuff I need. Wire, connectors, diode,
fuse, etc. I won't have a lot of options when I head north next week.

Check out this post on YouTube

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QPl7CTb685I


I don't think this is the problem I was having when the tractor broken
several years ago but it's defiantly something I can fix.


Thanks again.

You're welcome. Best of luck with the tractor and your hunt!