Billy,
You wrote:
[color=darkblue:d3dda59465]Yes, I took a chance with the grade 5, but with care, I saw it was no issue for what I was doing, however I did change it back to a grade 2 so as not to forget. I now have a much more powerful tractor, a 4630 Ford-New Holland. I've also got an early 600, a '54 640, the latter being more suited for that single bottom.[/color:d3dda59465]
Can you post a photo of your 4630 and others?
I used New Holland Red paint by Valspar to paint the A-frame on my MF Cutter. The store gave me a free sample to try. I think I like it even better than the old version of IHC red.
[color=darkblue:d3dda59465]I stand to be corrected, but the Rock Share is a heavier/thicker plow share then the usual throw away share.I have those on the 110 and the regular ones on the 101, you can see the difference at the points of each. The plow share is the removable/replaceable bottom wear piece that engages the ground. The shin is another removable/replaceable piece ahead of the mold board, [b:d3dda59465]the leading edge of the moldboard[/b:d3dda59465] but replaceable when worn down. You want to monitor these parts to insure they are replaced before the standard or frog which they are mounted on become the wear surface. My 101 was used with worn parts by the previous owner and the frog/standard needs to be built up by the leading plow bolt hole. The standard or frog is what all the wear pieces attach to, shin, share, mold board, and landside( rectangle piece opposite the share that rides along the furrow wall, kind of a wear strip for the side and as I see it the bottom too as they project out a bit on the bottom.[/color:d3dda59465]
Excellent! Thanks for filling in all the gaps in my understanding!
[color=darkblue:d3dda59465]I think the 110 came with either Adams or Star MFG wear parts, my replacement parts seem to make wider gaps between the share/shin and mold board. If you have original wear parts on that 110, monitor for excessive wear and get all the part numbers off what you take off as it will make it easier to cross reference to a currently available part. I can get wear parts for both the 110 and the 101 at the local Temco dealer.[/color:d3dda59465]
Great! So the parts [b:d3dda59465]are[/b:d3dda59465] still available.
[color=darkblue:d3dda59465]Well, you could use a spring tooth harrow or similar, but you'll have to run diagonal with the way the furrow was rolled over if that makes sense to you, to not pull the furrow back over.[/color:d3dda59465]
Great to know; something else not to have to learn the hard way.
[color=darkblue:d3dda59465]Thats my theory and I've used a cultivator over freshly plowed sod, I prefer the disc harrow over a cultivator or spring tooth harrow. That's the thing, if the area is plowed poorly, you'll have clods and clumps of sod on the surface, which is not desirable for a seed bed and may just re-grow whatever it was. When the furrows are turned over completely, you can run a disc harrow across it, and prepare the seed bed. You may want to firm up the seed bed with a cultipacker, plant and then roll it again with same. You may also want to run some kind of drags across it before either of the previous to level the disc harrow furrows before firming and planting, depending on the seed size being planted. Larger seed can go deeper into the soil, smaller seed not as deep or just below the surface. There is no doubt the old Massey Ferguson #25 disc harrow I have is one of the best mounted disc harrows there are. It leaves a nice seed bed at a certain speed in the soils here after mold board plowing.[/color:d3dda59465]
Deluxe know-how; thanks for passing on your experience!
[color=darkblue:d3dda59465]Soil needs to be dry enough as well, or you may have clods to be broken up. Spring tooth harrow may also bring up rocks as I have seen in fields I used to plant with a long time friend and farmer. Sure as heck hated seeing that type of implement used in some areas where rocks are plentiful.[/color:d3dda59465]
It's all a keeper!
Thanks for the farming tractorial!
Terry
New Holland Red