blown head gasket

Rebuilt this engine about a year ago - not used very much since then. Head gasket failed between cylinder 2 and 3. Was this just due to poor installation on my part i.e. not retorquing?

We need more information. Pics of the head and block between the two cylinders would be helpful. What did you torque the head bolts to? Is the head warped?

(quoted from post at 08:33:48 10/19/16)
We need more information. Pics of the head and block between the two cylinders would be helpful. What did you torque the head bolts to? Is the head warped?

Click to expand...

No, the head isn't warped.

I'll have to go back to the manual to look up the torque specs that I used - my memory isn't that good.

I'll get more pictures this evening and post tomorrow.

I found the corrosion and depressed area of the gasket to be bit disturbing; however, i've never seen a blown head gasket before so not sure what one should look like.

"Was this just due to poor installation on my part i.e. not retorquing?"

could be. i know the nuts on mine lost torque as it broke in, in some cases a LOT of torque. seems to me i checked and retightened as needed twice.

" No, the head isn't warped. "

How do you know that for sure? It's difficult to tell w/ the naked eye.

Follow the directions on the gasket.

Torque the head in three stages (as per the pi) 20, 40 the 65 lbs. Follow the pattern in the picture starting w/ # 1.

Run the engine to operating temp, let it cool, then re-torque.

And then the part everyone forgets..........check the head bolt torque annually.

just like you check the 450 lb rear wheel nut torque every year.

I carefully evaluated the head using a metal straight edge. Is that sufficient or should I take it to a machine shop?

Also, the head gasket leak was right in the middle of the head - isn't it more likely for a 'warp' to show up toward the edges? - just a question from a novice.

thanks

(quoted from post at 11:32:02 10/19/16)
I carefully evaluated the head using a metal straight edge. Is that sufficient or should I take it to a machine shop?

Also, the head gasket leak was right in the middle of the head - isn't it more likely for a 'warp' to show up toward the edges? - just a question from a novice.

thanks

Click to expand...

If your straight edge is true, the way to do it is to see if you can slide a .007 - .009 (IIRC that's the ballpark figure) feeler gauge under it at any point; if so, then it is resurfacing time.

As far as gasket failure at the center or the edge here's an example:
Old Austin 1100 and 1200 engines were prone to blowing head gaskets if a less than perfect head replacement was done. In those cases the gaskets invariably sprung leaks [b:4d26c8316c]between #2 and #3 cylinders[/b:4d26c8316c], because the amount of block material, the web between #2 and #3 was the narrowest in the block.

That problem was circumvented when the 1500's came along and the space between 2 and 3 became the WIDEST casting between the cylinders

I've always re-torqued and never had a failure provided the machine shop tolerance recommendations were initially adhered to. Phone a couple of machine shops and ask them how many thou for your feeler straight edge check.

(quoted from post at 11:24:20 10/19/16) " No, the head isn't warped. "

How do you know that for sure? It's difficult to tell w/ the naked eye.

Follow the directions on the gasket.

Torque the head in three stages (as per the pi) 20, 40 the 65 lbs. Follow the pattern in the picture starting w/ # 1.

Run the engine to operating temp, let it cool, then re-torque.

And then the part everyone forgets..........check the head bolt torque annually.

just like you check the 450 lb rear wheel nut torque every year.

Click to expand...

That pattern looks a lot like the one I used to use:

(quoted from post at 11:24:20 10/19/16) " No, the head isn't warped. "

How do you know that for sure? It's difficult to tell w/ the naked eye.

Follow the directions on the gasket.

Torque the head in three stages (as per the pi) 20, 40 the 65 lbs. Follow the pattern in the picture starting w/ # 1.

Run the engine to operating temp, let it cool, then re-torque.

And then the part everyone forgets..........check the head bolt torque annually.

just like you check the 450 lb rear wheel nut torque every year.

Click to expand...

That pattern looks a lot like the one I used to use:

It's not just about the head. Did you check the deck for out of flat? If the deck and head are within specs, but off a bit then I would consider a fiber gasket and follow the procedure.