Ford 8N backfire will not start

ehrigranch

New User
Thanks in advance for any help. I have seen numerous posts concerning this issue but no posts with solution.
Issue: 1952 Ford 8N will backfire and not start. Fuel flow is fine, Replaced following with New 1. Spark plug wires & Coil / Cap wire, 2. 12 volt Coil , 3.Rotor, 4. Cap, 5. Points ( gapped correctly), 6. condenser. No obstructions in exhaust. It has been converted to 12 volt in the past and has ran like a top. All firing sequence is correct with cap #1 toward block, firing counterclockwise rotation to #2, then 4, then 3 with #1 toward radiator. Any one that has had this problem and solved it any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
What gap on the points?

Did you loosen the distributor to set the timing?

Have you physically traced each plug wire from the cap to the corresponding plug? (# 1 plug is closest to the radiator).

Do you have the little clip underneath the rotor on the shaft?

Is the rotor firmly set on the shaft?

Is the cap firmly set on the distributor w/ the notch in place?
75 Tips
 
Thanks for the help Bruce.
1952 8N side mount dist. 12 volt conversion
1. gap on points: .025-.028
2. Tractor was painted approximately 2.5 years ago. Timing was set at that time and has not been adjusted since. Distributor has not moved or been adjusted.
3. Yes, all plug wires were replaced with new and all traced and installed with #1 closest to radiator, and firing order 1,2,4,3.
4. Yes clip under rotor on shaft is present.
5. New Rotor is firmly placed on shaft.
6. Yes , New Cap is firmly on distributor with the notch in place and locked down with retaining clips.

Any other ideas?
 
" Any other ideas? "

Time for a beer!

OK, it's not "the usual suspects".

Firing order is CCW, right?

Is it backfiring through the exhaust or the carb?

Cap off, rotor off, key off, hit the starter button & observe the mechanical opening & closing of the points.

Key on, confirm battery voltage across the points.

Try starting fluid directly in the carb throat.

Post back.
75 Tips
 
I wish on the beer.

Yes sir firing order CCW.

Backfiring through the exhaust.

Points opening and closing fine and gap correct.

Battery voltage across points... good

Starting fluid directly in carb throat... Yes sir, backfire.

Whiskey maybe ?
 
new sparkie wires, eh? Were they old fashioned copper core or modern carbon string wires? Strings can cause misses and backfires. Keep yer itchy-twitchy fingers off'n them handy-dandy carbie tweek-ums. Just incase, set the down-pointing main jet to 2-turns and LEAVITT. Adjust the side-pointing idlesmix for FASTEST idle, NOT smoothest idle. Understand the difference? Timing fer the 5-nipple side mount is 4*BTDC. Timing doesn't change but the points do. Me? I clamp the corner of $1-bill (cheap) between the points (0.025) and PULL. Polish the INVISIBLE corrosion from between the points. ........HTH, the amazed Dell
 
I'll go with Jack black, straight up.

Then I'd do a compression check.

Post back after the compression check and before the second drink! ;)
 
"cap #1 toward block"

When you put the new plug wires on, did you put them where
they were or did you go by the book and where they "should" be?

Reason I ask is because the distributor on a side mount can be
put in different locations. As long as the #1 piston is up on TDC
compression stroke and the rotor points to the tower that the #1
plug wire is connected to, it doesn't matter if that tower is toward
the block or in any other location. They just need to follow the
correct rotation from that point on.
 
Thank you for the help.

Yes sir, the old cap had #1 on cap toward block, new cap replaced with #1 toward block in same location.

Wiring to plugs 1,2,4,3 running CCW with #1 toward radiator and working my way back toward rear of block.

The tractor has been running like a top for the past 4 years.

I had went through the usual tune up procedures 4 years ago and replaced all components after tractor had been setting for a couple of years without running.

I have tried most of the usual things but I know when I don't know and this is one of those times. I am stumped.

Thank you all for any input to help solve this issue.
 
Thanks for the help.

New wires came in the tune up kit from TSC. Also in kit was plugs, condenser, rotor, cap, and points. New points set to .025-.028. I do not see any burn marks on new points but will run dollar through to polish.

Did not check to see if wires are carbon string instead of copper but with the price of the kit I will bet they are. I will check on get back with you.

Have not adjusted anything on Carb as of this posting.

Thank you for all the help.

Bart
 
" New wires came in the tune up kit from TSC. Also in kit was plugs, condenser, rotor, cap, and points. "

See tip # 66.

TSC is known for low-quality parts at high prices. Try this site or nnalert's for your parts.

But the quality of the parts is not likely causing your problem.

" but will run dollar through to polish."

That's a good idea. You can also put on ohm meter on the closed points to confirm that they are ok.

Try replacing the condenser w/ the old one. They can be bad out of the box; that's why I no longer replace condensers when I replace points.

If that doesn't work, time for a compression check.

Pls post back w/ results.
75 Tips
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top