Ford 8N won't fire, just slowly turns with a grinding sound.

I am very new to tractors and have inherited my grandfathers for 8N. It worked and ran just fine after I replaced the battery and when I went to start the other day it simply turns once or twice very slowly and has a terrible grinding sound. There's a key and a push button starter. Power is 12v from battery to seloniod and power from small post to the ignition. I have absolutely no power from the solenoid to the starter. I'm stuck.. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.12VT system with Alt.

new to tractors, eh? Sounds like yer hydraulicly locked from leaking gas from the glass filter under yer gas tank. The gas fills yer cylinders and when you tried to start yer tractor, yer piston pushed up against all the gas that has leaked into yer cylinders and umph, it won't turn. ALWAYS turn yer glass filter OFF when thru tractoring, also no more than 2-turns to run. To relieve yer hydraulic lock, remove yer sparklies, yes all 4 of them. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. As fer the slow turning, most likely poor ground. That generally requires removing the starter motor and cleaning the rust with sandpaper. Lets try and be lucky and remove the 2-long bolts so you kenn slide the starter out a little bitt and slip some sandpaper into the gap and sand around. The grinding sound sounds like yer Bendix isn't meshing with the flywheel gears. With yer improved ground, that problem should disapear. .......HTH, the amazed Dell

Charge the battery; see tip # 60.

If that doesn't work, jump the solenoid.

If that doesn't work, jump the battery; see
tip # 43.
75 Tips

Thank you for the response. When you say jump the solenoid your meaning too run a wire from the positive battery post directly to the starter right? I did that and it just sparks. Also the cables get incredibly hot when trying to start and if I push the starter button for more than a few seconds the starter post starts to smoke. I haven't pushed it though. The weird thing is that it was running perfectly.... Sorry for my ignorance, my grandfather passed away and that's how I got the tractor and wish I could ask him... He restored it completely and it was like one of his kids, lol

Thank you for the response and when I changed the sediment bowl and cleaned the carb a little leak did start where the fuel line connects to
the bowl assembly. Only leaks a little when I open it up though by turning the knob. I do always close it when not in use. As far as sanding
goes.... Your talking about the 2 long screws that hold the starter in right? So pull the starter out a little and sand around the perimeter or it?
Sorry in advance for my ignorance!! I really do appreciate the help here.

The starter may be shoorting out internally. time to take it to a starter shop and have it checked out.

The chances are that you've got a dead short in the starter as R. Geiger said.

But......

The bendix might be hung up on the ring gear.

Whack the starter a few times w/ a hammer. If that doesn't work, put the tractor in gear & get one rear wheel off the ground & turn that wheel.

If that doesn't work, time to pull the starter.

The starter has 3 major exterior components; front plate, barrel & rear plate. The 2 bolts that hold the starter on to the bell housing go through all three components & hold it all together. To remove the starter, unscrew the bolts out of the block & put a nut on one of them. Otherwise, the starter comes apart. Not fatal, but not fun either. (tip # 36 at the link below) Then, loosen the two bolts holding the oil filter canister to the block, (it does not need to be removed) remove the dipstick, and keep the starter close to the block while pushing the front of it down and lifting the back up. Sometimes you have to remove the drain petcock as well.

The bendix is behind the flywheel; your job is to get it over the flywheel.

Caution: while the starter is off, resist the temptation to screw with the bendix. If you extend the bendix, and it is not the OEM bendix w/ the big spring, you will have a hard time getting the starter installed.

To install the starter, keep it close to the block while pulling the front of it up and pushing the bendix back into the hole. The bendix has to go behind the flywheel; your job is to get it over the flywheel.

Lastly, while the starter is off, polish the block & all starter mating surfaces w/ sandpaper to insure a good electrical ground. First, clean the mating area between the barrel and rear plate. Then, clean the mating surfaces where the aluminum rear plate meets the bell housing. The starter's ground circuit is not only through the two long bolts but from the barrel to the rear plate & then to the bell housing as well.
75 Tips