8n governor

So i bought a new governor for my 52 8n hook it up adjutlat it and from idle to like 1/4 throttle its a full rpm is this normal??

If I'm reading this correctly, you are saying that it goes from idle to full RPM's with only about 1/4 sweep of the hand throttle?

I bought a new governor and had the same problem. I ended up putting the old one back on and returning the "new" one.

I am interested in hearing if anyone has a fix that would have worked.

Yes that is correct i have got 3 from 3 different places all do the same thing old one works throttle wise but the fovernor does not kick in and the levers have a bunch of play. Also the housing inside is groved from the balls rubbing on the caseing. Im lost

Same with mine. I was frustrated and just decided to put the old one back on and deal with it.

Ya hopefully some one on here has a solution
lol or i ma try to just rob some parts and
switch them idk...

Sorry to hear your problems with a new governor. I have replaced several governors on N tractors. I have found used ones on ebay and rebuilt them when I needed to . I would shy away from new starter motors, carbs, water pumps, generators, etc whenever possible. These items are easily obtainable on ebay or from salvage yards. I am not being critical of your decision to buy a new part, just hoping this helps someone else.

Not normal...not the way it is supposed to work. A new one may not be right, but you need to understand how it works & be observant in its workings. It is simply flyballs slung out by centrifugal force which thru the moving disk/cone/linkage pulls the carb toward a more closed throttle as speed increases. That force is working against the spring connecting the gov throttle arm to the gov carb arm. If that spring is too tight/too strong for the centrifugal force to stretch it, then that force is overcome by the hand throttle input and the gov is virtually out of the picture, thus it acts as though the hand throttle is the total control. Sounds like that is your case. So, look for too tight spring or balls not flying out & pulling against spring. Bending ends of spring is easier than observing flyball force, but one way that can be observed is by disconnecting linkage to arms of gov. Using your hand to load the outer (arm next to engine that was connected to carb) such as to push it toward carb, leaving inner arm free. Now controlling carb manually with other hand, start engine and as you speed it up the gov arm that you are loading toward carb, should try to overcome your hand force and move arm toward radiator if flyballs are working properly. Be careful not to over rev engine, as now the carb throttle arm is free to go where ever it wants! as in wide open! You may need three hands. As you can see, when working properly, it is a balancing act between the spring force and the flyball force.

Thank you for the replay we tryed what u
said and there is no pull back from the
governor the spring is pritty tight cant
move it really. Its a pain when im using my
box blade to keep throttling up and down all
the time.

(quoted from post at 13:18:29 10/13/16) Thank you for the replay we tryed what u
said and there is no pull back from the
governor the spring is pritty tight cant
move it really. Its a pain when im using my
box blade to keep throttling up and down all
the time.

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f you did what I said, with linkage disconnected, then the spring is not involved in gov "pull back", so given that, it would appear that the flyballs/cone/lever arm inside is not functioning.

How do i no which one is not functioning?2

(quoted from post at 14:23:10 10/13/16) How do i no which one is not functioning?2

Click to expand...

guess you mean which of flyballs, cone, lever arm? If so, only thing I would know to do is take it apart & look for signs of non-free movement, binding, specified dimension (0.22-0.23) at arm fork to washer.