Cold Weather Suggestions

First off, I live in VA where it's considered cold at 40*. So I'm hoping that we will get some more suggestions from those of you who live where it gets really cold.

A lot of what you do depends on your planned use of the tractor in the winter: using it or storing it.

Use:

No matter what else you do, the battery must be fully charged *. A float charger is helpful; not a trickle charger, but a float charger. (I use Battery Tenders on all my tractors; ** see below)

Clean grounds & battery terminals are always important. Don?t forget to loosen the starter from the block (see tip # 36) and polish the block & all starter mating surfaces w/ sandpaper to insure a good electrical ground.

If you can?t remember the last time you replaced the battery cables, it?s time to do it. Just because the terminals are clean doesn?t mean there is no corrosion under the insulation. And, this is another case where size matters (see tip # 41)

A charged battery, clean grounds & new cables aren?t going to mean much if the tractor needs a tune-up. At a minimum, every fall, remove the cap, check the points for pitting or burning, re-gap them & put a dab of lube on the cam. (BTW?..if you?ve wondered why some folks get years of use out of a set of points??.this is one of the reasons).

Things that aren?t all that important in warm weather become serious when it gets cold?like timing. A few degrees of timing either way at 60 or 70* isn?t likely to result in a ?no-start? situation. Well, it can at 10 or 20*. Check the timing!

Distributor gaskets are important on a sidemount & critical on a frontmount. As is the gasket under the coil. Just like with the battery cables?.if you can?t remember when you replaced the gaskets, do it this year.

Push the clutch in when you start the engine (tip # 29)

Oil viscosity can make a difference. If the tractor is going to be consistently operated below 20* F, switch to SAE 10w30; at 0* go to SAE 5w30.

Pull the air cleaner cup & check for water which will turn to ice.

This tip won?t make it start easier, but it will make it run better: turn the main jet out ? to 1 full turn for cold weather operating. Cold air is denser so you need a richer mixture.

While each N has its own starting sequence, none of them will start well by just yanking out the choke rod & holding it out for 5 or 10 seconds while the engine cranks. This is a gravity fuel system on a low compression engine; it is easily flooded by too much choke.

Try this:

Key on, gas on 2 full turns, clutch in, 3/4 throttle, press the starter button. Let it crank for at least 3 - 4 seconds before you pull the choke rod. Then, don't hold it out for more than 2 or 3 seconds.

If you find out it will not start w/o excessive choking, you have problems.

If you flood it, the plugs are fouled & it will be it next to impossible to start. Replace the plugs. You don't need to toss them; heat the tips for a few seconds w/ a propane torch to burn off the invisible spark-robbing deposits from today's additive filled gasoline........or wash them in brake cleaner.

Folks who live in places a lot colder than I do here in VA will argue about battery blankets or magnetic oil pan heaters as compared to lower radiator hose heaters or dipstick heaters. While the consensus leans toward lower radiator hose heaters, I can?t offer a personal observation; the only thing I?ve ever used to heat an engine was a 100w light bulb laid against the intake manifold. Freeze plug heaters are difficult to find for N?s because of the limited space in the water jacket. Magnetic oil pan heaters on the intake manifold will help as well.

While water in gas today is unusual because of all the ethanol, it?s not unheard of. The problem stems from what?s called ?phase separation? in the gasoline. The alcohol binds to the water & it settles in the bottom of your tank. The way to mitigate that is to keep the tank FULL. Less air means less moisture in the tank for the alcohol to absorb. If you?re lucky enough to live in a state where you can buy ethanol free gas (and it does not require a bank loan to do it) then add alcohol to the gasoline. (e.g., ?HEET?) Otherwise, the 10% ethanol in the gas is more than enough to deal w/ the water. I use Star Tron fuel additive in the tractors, old cars, golf cart, etc around here.

For storage:

It would be best to run it to operating temp once a month. That removes moisture from the engine & fully charges the battery. But, if that won't work, remove the battery & keep it indoors w/ a float charger ** on it every 2 or 3 weeks. Do not let the battery sit uncharged for more than 30 days.*

Ford recommends that if you are not going to use it at all, drain the tank, leave the cap loose and run the engine until the tank & carb are empty.

Remove the plugs, put a tablespoon of oil in the cylinders & turn the engine over a few times to lubricate the cylinder walls.

Block the clutch.

Check tire pressure & add air if needed. Put it on blocks or jack stands to keep the tires off of the ground.

Plug the exhaust pipe to keep the mice out. If mice are a major problem, soak some cotton balls in peppermint oil & put them under the hood & around the radiator. Some folks say mothballs work just as well.

Change the oil & lube it.

Make sure the hydraulic fluid doesn't have water in it.

Check the anti-freeze; use 50/50 anti-freeze & distilled water & run the engine to make sure it is well mixed. Don?t drain the block & radiator; all that gets you is corrosion & rust build-up in the water jacket.

If the tractor is not kept in a shed or garage, I don't think putting a tarp over it gets you much. A car cover, which supposedly does not retain moisture, would be a better idea.

Most all of this is covered in the owners manual, chapter III, storage.


* Your battery loses 33 percent of its power when the temperature dips below freezing, and over 50 percent of its power when the temperature falls below zero. A fully charged battery will not freeze until -76?F; however, a fully discharged battery can start to freeze at 32?F. So??keep the battery fully charged!


**Battery Tender website: http://www.batterytender.com/
75 Tips

"Some folks say mothballs work just as well."

i used to live in a mobile home that was like a theme park for mice - they loved the place. in particular, during the winter, they were big fans of the enclosure that held the water heater. understandable, they were drawn to the warmth.

i was told to use mothballs, so i gave them a try. i used a LOT. they did not work at all, and this was in a small, confined area, which, if anything, should have improved their effectiveness.

i don't know what DOES work to keep mice away, but in my experience, mothballs don't do the job.

Lot of good points brought up there Bruce; the battery tenders important.

My cold weather starting sequence is different than some in the fact that I give it full choke along with 3/4 throttle before hitting the starter button. Never fails to start. Been doing it that way for decades. Might take 30 seconds or more to feather the choke back in on a zero morning though.

(quoted from post at 16:26:37 09/21/16)
"Some folks say mothballs work just as well."

i used to live in a mobile home that was like a theme park for mice - they loved the place. in particular, during the winter, they were big fans of the enclosure that held the water heater. understandable, they were drawn to the warmth.

i was told to use mothballs, so i gave them a try. i used a LOT. they did not work at all, and this was in a small, confined area, which, if anything, should have improved their effectiveness.

i don't know what DOES work to keep mice away, but in my experience, mothballs don't do the job.

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There are two types of mothballs. The originals used naphthalene as the active ingredient and I have found them to be very effective at keeping mice and other critters out of my stuff. I store my boat for the winter in a mouse motel shed but naphthalene mothballs in all of the compartments keeps them out of the boat. Same with my pontoon boat that spend the winter under a tarp in the back yard. The newer formula uses paradichlorobenzene as the active ingredient. I've heard they are not as effective but I've never tried them. Maybe that's what you tried?

Well, it gets cold here in Mt. I never put mothballs in nothing
Just service it as normal, check the antifreeze to make sure it is good to low enough temp.( -40 ° F, because it really does get that cold). Use a lower weight oil. Make sure your soft plug or lower radiator hose heater is working. So you can.preheat your engine prior to startup. I put mine on a timer so it preheats the engine for 3 to 4 hours. When I lived on the border we wired in a trickle charger with the heater so the battery got a little boost too. If you don't plan on using it, treat the fuel so it dont go bad, maybe remove the battery if you feel like.it. but that just makes you feel better.

One more thing, everything works a little slower when it's cold. So slow down. When its bitter cold, it's hard on everything, leaf springs, gearboxes, brakes, engines, batteries, people, men , women, cows, trucks you name it. So don't feel you have it any harder than anybody else.

scout, that's a good question. i have no idea which kind i got, it was years ago. but i thank u for the question, as it caused me to do some research. i found it odd that u call PDCB the "newer" formulation, as i remember learning it was what mothballs were made of (iirc, it was the subject of a lab exercise), but i see that is agreed on. it just strikes me as odd since my chem lab days were in the early 70s newer is relative :lol:

in any event, having now read for a few about both chemicals, i'm inclined to never buy or handle either of them again - and i thank u again for causing me to look this stuff up

"i have no idea which kind i got, it was years ago."

i stand corrected.

when i was researching it, i saw a picture of enoz old fashioned mothballs, and it looked familiar. but then, i had no idea if PDCB mothballs had the same box, or if i just imagined the familiarity.

after my last post, i remembered that i had bought 2 boxes, and stuck one in the pole barn. this was a good 15 years ago. it's a nice night, i don't need much of an excuse to go outside, so i took a stroll over to the pole barn. lo and behold, there, on the shelving unit i was picturing, was the second box.

amazingly, some are still there. and they're napthalene.

Bruce you forgot the most important tip!

If you live somewhere where it gets really cold and you have to operate a tractor more than about 10-15 minutes.........Make sure it's new enough to have a heated cab! Couple of hours on an open station tractor at -20F to -30F will break you of the notion that open station is the way to go! And when the wind chills hit -80F or so it's will break you of that notion in about 2 seconds flat! :shock: :shock:

Rick

Ha! I think I'd move!

Yea, I understand wind chill & -20* temps. Did enough winter warfare training in the White Mountains of NH and in WI & UT to figure out that you best be careful or pay the price.

We'd put the radio batteries in the sleeping bags with us at night& try to make our commo checks first thing in the morning. I've melted a few batteries trying to warm them w/ heat tabs.

A long time ago!

Didn't read the entire thread but a very important prerequisite for reliable cold weather starting is proper winter formula gasoline.

Always, use or remove any summer formula gasoline from the tank before the onset of cold weather and replace with winter formula gasoline.

Trying to start your N in cold weather with summer formula gasoline in the tank, especially if old, is an exercise in frustration.

Dean

(quoted from post at 13:33:24 09/22/16) Didn't read the entire thread but a very important prerequisite for reliable cold weather starting is proper winter formula gasoline.

Always, use or remove any summer formula gasoline from the tank before the onset of cold weather and replace with winter formula gasoline.

Trying to start your N in cold weather with summer formula gasoline in the tank, especially if old, is an exercise in frustration.

Dean

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Excellent advice Dean. Tnx

(quoted from post at 07:30:56 09/22/16) Ha! I think I'd move!

Yea, I understand wind chill & -20* temps. Did enough winter warfare training in the White Mountains of NH and in WI & UT to figure out that you best be careful or pay the price.

We'd put the radio batteries in the sleeping bags with us at night& try to make our commo checks first thing in the morning. I've melted a few batteries trying to warm them w/ heat tabs.

A long time ago!

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LOL Bruce, I have thought about that. Trouble is my wife's family is all here......wait, I can leave her here and move......this is starting to sound real good to me!

My worst experience in the Army with cold had to be the winter field exercise we did at Ft Bliss TX. Long night road march, about 20 degrees above, wind was howling 28-35 MPH. Us tank commanders caught heck with half our bodies out of the commanders hatch moving into the wind at 30 MPH! Then about 2AM after we had reached our night AA, now it's sleeting with the wind still blowing and the bad chow hit us! Nothing like sleet blowing up the crack you know where while you have the squirts! Most miserable night of my life! Yea I did winter REFORGERS in Germany and winter training at Ft Know and Riley but that one night stands out as the worst!

I have some not so fond memories of spreading manure with a -60 tp -70F wind chill across the tops of some hills for my dad on open station tractors! While he was sitting in the kitchen drinking coffee! Had to clean the barn everyday and couldn't let it freeze in the spreader!

Rick

12 volt conversion and keeping original 6 volt starter makes up for weak battery, bad connections, etc. Converted mine to 12 volts about 20 years ago and still have original 6 volt starter.
Lower radiator hose heater works great. -20F, plug in for 45 minutes and fires right up.

(quoted from post at 15:33:24 09/22/16) Trying to start your N in cold weather with summer formula gasoline in the tank, especially if old, is an exercise in frustration.

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I did that ONCE. Snowstorm followed immediately by cold weather that night. 2N had been sitting for two months with summer gas in it and absolutely would not start. Could get it to fire on ether, but wouldn't stay running. Next day was Saturday and thirty degrees warmer. 2N started without any trouble at all. Used the remaining gas up quick and refilled with fresh winter gas. No problems starting for the rest of the winter. Now I make sure to put fresh gas in when the snow comes.