- Thread starter Ron Tron
- Start date
Tim PloughNman Daley RIP
Well-known Member
try some PB BLASTER a few times a day for several days...then a few taps with the wooden handle of a hammer but don't force the handle...last resort is a little applied heat from a good torch but use extreme caution...
(quoted from post at 12:26:33 09/18/16)
Remove the cranking shaft end collar and pin
Slide the crank and pinion gear out
Unscrew the fork (or nut) from the main screw shaft
Tap on the end of the screw and it will pop the grease cap out of the gear box.
Ready for inspection
understood everything but....."Tap on the end of the screw and it will pop the grease cap out of the gear box."
Tall T
Well-known Member
Once the cranking shaft and its pinion gear are out of the way, tap the end of the main screw upward toward the leveler box and the crown gear (that is part of that main shaft) will push out that pressed in steel cap on the top of the box.
Just the easy way to get that cap off.
Hi I am resurrecting this post as find myself in a very similar situation. I have a new-to-me 1964 Ford 4000 and the right side leveler arm is frozen.
I just hit it with some PB Blaster, to see if that amounts to anything. However, should I need to disassemble the arm, (and I think that is what is going to happen) how do I do that? I see how to disconnect it from the lower arm and the lifting arms, but I dont see an obvious way to disassemble the part itself.
Anyway if this post is dead and gone, then I'll start over with a brand new post.
Dollar Bill
Member
Remove the pin (595). The one on the right side of the parts diagram.
Unscrew threaded rod (579) from the clevis (585).
Disassemble the leveling box by removing the roll pin or cotter key indicated by red arrow in parts diagram and then you can remove the crank handle (594).
With a rubber mallet, tap upward on the threaded end of the shaft (579) to drive out the expansion plug (74127-S)
You have now disassembled the leveling box.
The inability to adjust the leveling box could be either the bearing (554) is frozen or the threads in the clevis (585) are caked up with dirt.
Actually, the threads on the shaft with the crown gear were so heavily caked up with gunk and old grease, that it could not turn.
I got the pinion off and the handle out and the cap off the top of the leveler box. I put the shaft in a vice and then used my largest screwdriver to turn the fork to twist it off the shaft.
After a preliminary cleaning, I reassembled the parts to see if it otherwise works when not glued together, and it does.
So now I am properly cleaning the parts and getting ready to reassemble them with fresh grease.
The bearing works, but it might be a lost cause. when I turn it, more and more crud comes out of it. It might be worth it for me to just get a new bearing.
Dollar Bill
Member
Thanks for posting the results of your disassembly - Glad to hear of your success.
Replacing the bearing is a good call as it's likely the original.
Keystone Heights was named as the original property developer, John J. Lawrence was from PA and was incorporated back in 1921.
Replacing the bearing is a good call as it's likely the original.
Keystone Heights was named as the original property developer, John J. Lawrence was from PA and was incorporated back in 1921.
As I said before, i got it all apar. I soaked all of the parts and cleaned them all as well as I could. I cleaned out the threads and I re-assembled the leveler box, packed the gear box full of grease and pumped the fork full of grease as well. Lo-and-behold, it still works!
Now when I crank the handle, the arm moves up and when I un-crank the handle, the arm goes down! Just like it is supposed to.
I have a grand total of zero implements for the three point, but that is not what is important right now. I am just glad that that thing I took apart works after I put it back together. Especially since it was not working before I took it apart!
Thank you all for your help and especially for that exploded view diagram.
Tall T
Well-known Member
Dirtsmith,
With some forks (or nuts) there's a right way and a wrong way to connect to the lower lift arm. I put a Ferguson one on my tractor and there is a cutaway relief on one side of the fork unit. that relief has to be on the lower lift arm side of that fork, otherwise when a heavy implement is lowered, it will come up against the lower lift arm and the screw will get bent.
See how the backside of the fork looks different because of the taller slot.
With some forks (or nuts) there's a right way and a wrong way to connect to the lower lift arm. I put a Ferguson one on my tractor and there is a cutaway relief on one side of the fork unit. that relief has to be on the lower lift arm side of that fork, otherwise when a heavy implement is lowered, it will come up against the lower lift arm and the screw will get bent.
See how the backside of the fork looks different because of the taller slot.
Hi Dollar Bill.....can you tell me the Title of the Manual that you used for the Exploded View of that Handle??. I would like to search for a Manual or Instruction guide for my 1941 Ford 9N. A Manual or Assembly Guide like that is what I need. Appreciate your response. Ron (Maine)
A new member.. Ron Grimard
Dollar Bill
Member
Ron, that image was from a 1956 Ford parts manual. Similar parts information are available online. I use Messicks.com quite often. When their page opens, select "Online Parts" on the left side of the red banner. Provide tractor model and an indexed menu opens for what part of the tractor you're working on. There is also an option to download the parts diagram to a PDF.
Good luck and post back if more info required.
Good luck and post back if more info required.
Hi Ron,
I was so enamored with that diagram, that I started digging around and I found a .pdf at www.external_link; I was able to download the whole PDF which is chock full of diagrams and part numbers and all sorts of other information - that I find particularly helpful.
Maybe this is another option for you as well.
Dollar Bill,
Do you have a physical Messicks dealership near you in FL?
Messicks is local to me. Between Messicks and the New Holland website, I have been able to find just about everything that I have been looking for.
Here's a short anecdote from a recent shopping experience with Messicks:
I was looking for some parts to repair a power steering issue on my tractor. Not only was the man I spoke to extraordinarily amiable, but he also possessed practical working knowledge of what I specifically needed for my repair. The parts I needed were even in stock. But wait, there's more! They also delivered the parts to a Messicks closer to my home to save me an hour+ drive to get the parts I just purchased. I was able to complete my repair that evening.
There are still some places out there that provide good customer service and it is wonderful when that business is discovered. How Messicks treated my request for help/service warrants repeat business and unsolicited recommendations. (Much like this one.)
Dollar Bill....thank you for your feed back, I will visit Messicks.com as you suggest and see what they have to offer. I just installed a New Front Bumper on my Ford 9N and it was no easy chore. But anyway I'm always interested in picking up other Manuals that helps to explain the parts on this Tractor if and when its needed. . Thank you again..Ron
In addition to the Messicks site that Bill gave you, you can also check directly on the New Holland website.
Click the "Find parts by model" link and type in your model number or use the other search options.
[b:8b436cb97e]New Holland[/b:8b436cb97e]
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